Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help
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@Damien Please post your config.g and your Gcode start scripts from your slicer, so we can help you better.
KR
Paul -
Hi @PaulHew Thank you for ther help!
Config.g file
; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 2.03)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Fri Mar 20 2020 22:11:40 GMT-0500 (EST); General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Ender 5" ; set printer name
M918 P1 E4 F2000000 ; configure direct-connect display; Network
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S1 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E93.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z60.00 E300.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E25.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X850 Y800 Z700 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X220 Y220 Z300 S0 ; set axis maxima; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; set active high endstops
M574 Z1 S2 ; set endstops controlled by probe; Z-Probe
M558 P9 H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P0 X-44 Y-16 Z0 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:6 Y15:195 S20 ; define mesh grid; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C; Fans
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Custom settings are not defined
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We're gonna need to see all the homing files.
In general, here's what you need to do to define your coordinate system. The FT5 is a little tricky because by default it puts the origin at the rear right, and has some printed grid on the bed surface (I think?) but really it's all arbitrary.
First, choose a FRONT for the printer so that when you're looking at it standing in front of it 0,0 is the front left corner, X+ goes to the right, Y+ goes to the back. This does not change because it's describing the physical layout of the printer.
Next, Measure the axis length for X and Y and enter that in your M208 command to set the axis limits. 0 at the low end (or even negative if the head leaves the bed surface to hit the endstop). This does not change because it's describing the physical layout of the printer.
Now identify where your endstops are located. They can be at the low or high end of the axis. Define them with M574. M574 X1 Y1 for low side, M574 X2 Y2 for high side, or any combo thereof. This does not change because it's describing the physical layout of the printer.
Now setup your homing movements. If the endstop is at the low end of the axis, the homing move must be negative. And vice versa. This does not change because it's describing the physical layout of the printer.
Now test the motor movement direction. If X+ moves to the right, you're good to go. If it moves left, you need to change the motor rotation for the X driver by changing the M569 S0/S1 command in config.g. Same goes for Y+ moving to the back. If you've connected the motors to their default drivers, it should be mapped like this:
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 (x) goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 (y) goes backwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 (z) goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 (e) goes backwards
If you follow those steps your printed parts will match the orientation in the slicer and won't be mirrored.You can also find an example config here that may help you out, but be careful using other peoples config files. It's far better to try and figure out the configuration yourself to ensure it matches your machine.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10842/config-file-for-ft5-r2?_=1584811072015
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Also take a look at this guide series which should help you get up to speed. It's for a maestro and ender 3, but is still applicable to the ender 5 in most ways.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37
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Sorry for the delay in getting back.
I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of to get this printer configured for my Ender 5 Pro and my Duet 2 Maestro.....
If I could get someone who understands all of this help set me up, just to get printing (i.e. all Motors settings, max speeds, accel., etc) I would really appreciate it! I've tried other json's that other people have posted on other places on this site. All of them are ender 5's. I know that they are almost exactly the same, but there seems to be some differences, since theirs doesn't seem to work with my stock setup.
It'd be a great service for Duet to offer their patrons the stock settings for all the major printers, just to get people up and running. Then any custom(non-stock) parts can be configured from a good "base config."
I figured out how to make home the center of the bed, with consideration to z-probe offset. Got my mesh grid sorted too. Now I am trying to figure out the motor settings and keep hitting dead ends...
If you guys could help me (and any other poor soul that try's this upgrade...)I and posterity will thank you and be much appreciative!
homez.g homey.g homex.g homeall.g config.json config.g bed.g Hi all,
[0_1585260683428_download (1).zip](Uploading 100%)
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@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
I've tried other json's that other people have posted on other places on this site. All of them are ender 5's.
It'd be a great service for Duet to offer their patrons the stock settings for all the major printers,
Do you see the disconnect above? That's why they don't/can't.
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@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
Now I am trying to figure out the motor settings and keep hitting dead ends...
We'd love to help. Tell us more about what you have, and what is happening?
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Not sure I understand what mean about the disconnect?
I’ll explain my situation.
I have figured out all the issues with the bed. My origin is center and I have the BLTouch correctly calibrated so it home to center. I have my mesh grid coordinates sorted.
My only confusing part is the settings for my motors. When I had my creality board hooked up, the motors were pretty much silent and I was getting good prints, to be honest.
I wanted to be able to stop prints when I am not around, remotely. Which is why I decided to upgrade to the Maestro.
Since the first time I hooked up the motors and did a homing, no matter what settings I put in, I seem to have the loud sound that comes from the motors. I have tried everything from putting the settings to 16 steps, copying the settings that I found on the config from the marlin; to raising the steps to 256(I read somewhere that that would help make the motors more quiet) making sure to adjust the steps, to no avail.
I’ve tried different mA settings I have found all over the net for the motors. Still no joy...
The motors are either loud, move too slow or too fast. Tbh, I expected the printer to be much quieter with this board.If I could just find the right settings for the motors for my ender 5 pro, i’m sure I can figure the rest out. I just cant find anything thats specific to my printer.
Thank you for your help!
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@Damien
Please can you re-post your config.g as it sounds like it may have changed considerably.
Also the results from a M115 and while you are at it a M122Is the PSU on your printer 12v or 24v as that will make a difference on the motor noise.
Like you, my Ender3 was good before I went to the Maestro board. It took a little time but my prints are much better and the printer is silent.
The guide @Phaedrux posted the link to is a godsend. It was not around when I converted but I still refer to it.
Hope to hear from you soon!
Regards,
Paul. -
Here is my most reason version of the config.g file.
The following is what pops up in the console when I M115, after M122'ing:
m115
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro FIRMWARE_VERSION: 2.05.1 ELECTRONICS: Duet Maestro 1.0 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-02-09b1The PSU is 24V.
I am pretty confident I have everything wired correctly.
I'm not sure of what to make of the FT5 link. How does that apply to my printer?
Thanks again for your help!
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This line
M203 X30000.00 Y30000.00I suggest you lower this value, Just incase something breaks. My Ender 3 is 9000.
Max I run on my CoreXY 24000 and that has linear Rails.Out of interest, did you change the connectors for the stepper motors so you could plug them into the board or did you jam them on? (I did originally as I did not have the tool!)
I noticed Phaedrux sent you the link for wiring, maybe he thinks there is an issue there.The reason I asked for your voltage is that Stealthchop does not really work @12v, from what I read. Also I do not know if you have to enable it or it is enabled..
My M569 commands have no extra parameters in them.
Is the 'noise' on one particular move or all of them? So moving X Y and Z separately they all sound 'noisy'? Maybe a little video showing individual moves.I include my config.g from my Ender3 Pro, which has been modified. Extruder, BLT, Z axis for you to see.
M550 P"Ender 3 Pro" ; set printer name M918 P1 E4 F2000000 ; configure direct-connect display ; Network M552 P192.168.0.8 S1 ; enable network and set IP address M553 P255.255.255.0 ; set netmask M554 P192.168.0.1 ; set gateway M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet ; Drives M569 P0 S0 ; physical drive 0 goes backwards M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes backwards M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S1 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z1600.00 M92 E862 ; set steps per mm ; TechOut PET-G Red, green E817 ; White PLA E800 ;Chroma E800 ;TechOut PLA E825 M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z12.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X9000.00 Y9000.00 Z300.00 E300000.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1200 I50 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Axis Limits ;M208 X0:235 Y0:235 Z0:235 S0 ; set axis minima:maxima M208 X0:235 Y-20:225 Z0:235 S0 ; set axis minima:maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop M574 Y1 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop M574 Z1 S2 ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z ; Z-Probe M558 P9 C"zprobe.in" H5 F120 T60000 A10 R0.75 S0.02 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds M950 S0 C"^zprobe.mod" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch G31 P500 X42 Y-1 Z1.420 ;Z1.158 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height ;M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20 ; define mesh grid M557 X42:220 Y20:220 S20 ; Heaters M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" A"Bed Temp" T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0 M143 H0 S100 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 150C M307 H0 A170.5 C635.1 D0.5 V24.1 B0 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit ; M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" A"E3D-DD" T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M143 H1 S275 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 275C M307 H1 A403.4 C216.0 D4.6 V24.2 B0 ; disable bang-bang mode for the nozzle heater and set PWM limit ; Fans M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency M106 P1 S1 H1 T40 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency M106 P2 S1 H1:0 T45 ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Tools M563 P0 S"E3D-DD" D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Custom settings are not defined ; Miscellaneous M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss T0 ; select first toolP.
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I've just changed them to 9000 as recommended. Those were auto inputted by the online reprap configuration tool.
The guide I used to do the wiring (start at 15:58) initially. Having reviewed the link, I'm confident that i've hooked everything up correctly:
I just cut the "tangs" off and plugged them in.
Like the guide says, I would prefer to set my micro-stepping to 128 for greater resolution. Did you try this? For now, I just copied your settings. Going to input and try a test print to see how things work out.
I'm all little worried about the motor current mA you have set on your extruder, but i'll try it. I know that the ender 3/3 Pro/5/5 Pro have their similarities, but I wonder if they are using the same stepper motors on the same axis?
How do you check if Stealthchop is enabled?
I'll upload a video of my printer after I've made the changes if there are any issues still.
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@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
I am getting some weird noises from the motors and the bed is moving way too slow.
It would help to hear the noises.
When is the bed moving way too slow?
Your config looks ok. homeall looks ok.
What exactly are the issues?
My post about the FT5 was a copy and paste from a different thread, but they are very similar machines. The bulk of that post is talking about getting your coordinate system defined properly, which is usually the largest issue people have when getting a new printer setup.
Stealthchop can be configured with the D parameter of M569. Stealthchop is quiet, but it also has a limit to how fast you can go before you risk losing steps. That's why it's important to configure the point where it will switch over to spreadcycle. Even Prusa has quiet mode which uses stealthchop but it also limits things like top speed and acceleration.
M569 also has a few other parameters that you can experiment with to try and tune the drivers for the motors. Unfortunately it's not a very intuitive process and there is no one set of settings that someone can give you that will just work.
Creality seems to use the same range of motors for all it's printers. Economies of scale and all that. Unfortunately, they tend to be a bit louder with the Duet controller I think. They were obviously chosen and tuned for the creality board and drivers. Same way that Prusa has chosen their motors and tuned for them with their printers. Part of the disadvantage of the build your own approach is less integration.
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Hi all,
Ok, I’ve made some progress. I can at least get a print done, albeit the print is stretched and quality is poor. It’s a start.
I’ve figured out that you need to be pretty specific with ALL of the settings and requested info on the reprap config tool.
It’s a shame that they don’t have a comprehensive list of printers with preconfigured stock settings. It’s really hard to find all the data on the stock parts too. For example, where do you find info like the Hob diameter for the extruder, or the gear ratio, or mA of the motors? I’m also not convinced the calculation formulas in the reprap config tool is correct, because of the fact that the motors do not operate as they are supposed to, in terms of speed and noise levels. Do you know all the measurements/specs of the ender 5 pro that they are asking for?
I managed to go onto the Marlin firmware of the previous Creality 1.1.5 board. I copied some of the settings that were and plug them into the config tool. I made sure to adjust for the mm per second vs mm per minute, etc. But, I am obviously still missing some thing's/settings.
Here are some pics of my benchy. You'll notice that it is stretched. Very weird. I would have thought it would just fail the print? You'll notice that the layers look a bit spaced. I baby stepped the print all the way up to .75mm during the print to see if it would correct itself. I stopped as I didn't want the print to fail. Any ideas on why?
You'll notice my Hero Me Vent that was printed with the Creality Board. As you can see, the print quality wasn't too bad.
I can't upload a video of my printer in action as the size too big.
Here are my updated files and pulled off the above print.
homez.g homey.g homex.g homeall.g config.json config.g
Hopefully the above helps you guys figure out what my problems are. At this point, if I have cant get this board working correctly soon, i'm going to give up on it. IMHO, it shouldn't be this hard when installing into a stock printer.
I really do appreciate your guys help so far though. You've both been awesome!
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I don't know that printer, but my guess is that your Z steps/mm is too high. When you command the head to move up 50mm, how far does it actually move?
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The Ender 5 pro is virtually the same as an Ender 5. The bed moves up and down. I've leveled the bed on all corners and used baby stepping to do so. But, I haven't measured any of the movements on any of the drives yet.
I'm a little confused by the whole thing, to be honest. It seems like if you have a marlin board installed, everything just works the way its supposed to and it even has preconfigured settings depending on the type of stepper drivers you are using, etc. But the same is not true for Reprap. But, further to this, there are no resources you can pull from to help you?? (Except this forum, of course.
)There is so much conflicting info out there to whats on the Duet website too. When I did a search on google about the gear ratio of the ender steppers, I did find something that says its 3:1 ratio. If you plug that into the tool, it gives a completely different number. If you use that number the axis moves too slow. If you use the number from the guide the bed moves at a rate that seems similar to what it did under the Creality board, but the prints come out the way they are in the pics.
Also, I saw on one page...I think it was the ender 3 config guide...that the correct extruder micro stepping(128 interpoled) vs Stepps per mm should be 741.
I'm no pro at electronics, but I do know a little. Particularly with DC, as I used to work in the LED sales market. I suspect that the problem may ly in the mA settings of the motors? Correct me if I am wrong, but let's say that I set the motor to 800 mA, but the right settings are 550 mA. Doesn't that mean that the motor will get too much power and therefore 'over-perform', kinda like 'over-revving a car engine? Therefore throw off the printer, no matter if you have the other figures in the tool correct?
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Your Z steps per mm is incorrect, it's most likely 400 instead of 1600.
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z1600.00 E741.00 ; set steps per mm
@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
I've leveled the bed on all corners and used baby stepping to do so
I'm not sure what you mean by that. Baby stepping is not normally used for leveling the 4 corners of the bed. It's used to slightly adjust the print height during the first layer incase it's too high or too low.
@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
It seems like if you have a marlin board installed, everything just works the way its supposed to and it even has preconfigured settings depending on the type of stepper drivers you are using, etc.
Well yeah, that's the way it comes out of the box. Replacing the electronics is going to take a bit of work.
@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
there are no resources you can pull from to help you??
I linked you to a step by step guide for a total conversion of a Creality printer to using a Duet Maestro. Creality printers are all very similar and the differences will stick out and can be answered here.
The reason there are not predone configurations for all the printers out there is that it's simply impossible to do. There are so many versions of printers that it would be a nightmare to have a perfectly working profile for every one and then keep them all maintained. It's just not feasible. Besides, Shouldn't it be the job of the printer manufacturer to provide the details and specs of the machine they are making rather than Duet to try and gather it all after the fact? The Duet is an aftermarket upgrade and assumes some level of familiarity with customizing 3d printers. It has a learning curve. But we're here to help. Everything can be figured out and we try and document things as much as feasible.
@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
When I did a search on google about the gear ratio of the ender steppers, I did find something that says its 3:1 ratio. If you plug that into the tool, it gives a completely different number.
Does your extruder have any gears on it, or is it just a single drive gear?
@Damien said in Ender 5 Pro Upgraded with Duet 2 Maestro - Help:
Correct me if I am wrong, but let's say that I set the motor to 800 mA, but the right settings are 550 mA. Doesn't that mean that the motor will get too much power and therefore 'over-perform', kinda like 'over-revving a car engine? Therefore throw off the printer, no matter if you have the other figures in the tool correct?
Not exactly. The more current you push through them the stronger they will be, but also the more heat that will be generated. Possibly to the point of deforming and seizing up the rotor. The values used by marlin on the creality board might also not be applicable to the drivers used in the Duet. In general it's best to know the max motor current for the motor and then set the duet to use 70-85% of that value.
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@Phaedrux @PaulHew @dc42 @Danal
OK Figured it out....FINALLY!!
Just so you know, the motors are louder than the creality stock board. I plan on replacing them, once I have found a "better" version of stepper motors that are more compatible with the Duet 2 Maestro board. (Anyone have any suggestions? What's the best on the market?)
The stepper motor for the Z axis needs to be set to 800, not 400 steps. It seems the stock motors of Ender 3 and 5 Pro are different. The lead screw is "TR4" with a 4mm pitch and set to 1:1 ratio. You can then set whatever microstepping you want. 16 works fine for me.
Also, make sure you set your extruder to run 'Backwards' not forwards (another difference between Ender 3 and 5).
If you want higher resolution you can set your extruder to 128(on) microstepping. Whatever you choose, make sure that you set your "Hob Diameter" in the reprap config tool to 10.9 and 1:1 gear. That will set the calculation to the correct value.
The rest of the settings that you see below are directly from the Marlin board, so I am sure they are right and I'm getting some decent prints now. Louder, mind you! At this point, I don't mind.
To be honest, I am still not convinced I have the right settings for the motor currents. I couldn't find any conclusive info on this. I will do some more digging and update if I find anything.
Attached is my config file.
Bear in mind that I added an additional 5015 blower to my filament blower. Thus the tool to make sure they are running in-sync.
***Pro tip: if you have a brand new board, it seems they ship the jumper for the "FAN2" to 5V. Make sure you change it to "VIN".
I also have a Hero Me Gen3 cooling duct attached, thus the offsets, Mesh grids, etc. If you plan to copy-paste, make sure you calibrate these to your machine.
I also google and found the correct settings for the heaters of the hotend and bed. the ones here are safe to use. I have not done a PID tunning yet though...never done before, will try that to see if it works out for me.
; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 2.03)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sun Apr 05 2020 20:04:18 GMT-0500 (Colombia Standard Time); General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Damien's Ender 5 Pro" ; set printer name
M918 P1 E4 F2000000 ; configure direct-connect display; Network
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet
I
; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E128 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E747.59 ; set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z60.00 E300.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X30000.00 Y30000.00 Z300.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Axis Limits
M208 X-110 Y-110 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X110 Y102 Z300 S0 ; set axis maxima; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; set active high endstops
M574 Z1 S2 ; set endstops controlled by probe; Z-Probe
M558 P9 H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X-48 Y-17 Z2.761 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X-138:14 Y-127:60 S20 ; define mesh grid; Heaters
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B3950 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S250 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 250C; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F20 H-1 ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S0 I0 F20 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S0 I0 F20 H-1 ; set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0:2 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Custom settings
M918 P1 E4 ; Enable 12864 LCD with 1 menu item per encoder click; Miscellaneous
M501 ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memoryIt took me a while to find all of this in various places on the internet.
Hopefully, this starts you off well.
Happy Printing!
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@Damien if it’s any help I’ve been looking myself at the stepper motors today as I also have an ender 5 pro, the reprap store sells them and lists the current for both types the 42-40 and 42-34 as 1.5 amps I’ve tried the motors at 800ma as the guild says and also at 1200ma (80%) both settings are noisy! But at least you’ve managed to print something I can’t even get my first layer down yet properly yet, still learning just very slowly!
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@jumpedwithbothfeet Let me know if I can help with anything! And, Thanks for the suggestion!
