Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.
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OK
All good and 2 minor issues:
Keep getting the filename too long error but it seems to be working regardless. Be nice to lose this error flag.
Adhoc wifi; need to get macro working so do not need to USB/YAT to turn that on! Bit pointless otherwise.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Hmm, one more thing, a test print cam out brilliant...except approx 35% too big all round! No idea why...
R
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@FuseDeep I'm having a job keeping up with what you have as a problem and what you don't. A couple of things that might clear up soem confusion that you seem to be having. Firstly, the extrude and retract buttons are greyed out by default to prevent you from cramming filament into an unheated hot end. To extrude, you first need to select a tool, then you need to heat it. Or for testing without any filament loaded, you can use M302 to allow cold extrudes. Secondly, there is only one main configuration file - config.g and that resides in the .sys directory of the SD card. When you edit the configuration using the web interface, you actually edit that file. That config.g file is only read once when the machine is first turned on. Or when you make changes via the web interface and hit save - then you might or might not get a prompt to reset the board (which means run config.g again) depending on which version of firmware you are using. So to be sure, you can send M98 P"config.g" which will run the file again, or you can cycle the power which will run config.g when the machine restarts. Thirdly, you have to have a tool selected before you can extrude. If your slicer doesn't put a Tn command in, then put one at the end of your config.g. Hope that clears a few things up for you. If your test print came out the wrong size, that might indicate that you steps per mm are not correct for the size of pulleys that you are using. Can't help with your WiFi issues - I used wired Ethernet.
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@deckingman Thanks, I appreciate I had a load of questions, a few of which I sorted myself and edited the OP. So some learning happening.
Yes, hear you about the temp needing to be on for the extruder to show, discovered that and sorted the wrong thermistor use set for the tool. all fixed. Thanks for the comment.
Regarding the dimension change, yes it must be step/mm however they should be set correct for the cogs and belting used...also the print is correct but wrong size and I am running 2 belt profiles so seems to suggest a scaling issue. Will check I did not slice the file wrong! Could be human error, easily.
My main issue is triggering the wifi automtically and not need to trigger it via USB/YAT. pointless having it but needing to USB...
As you say, not your area and not currently mine either.
Am also getting the file name too long error pop up, annoying but it is working in general: Filename too long: cap=120, dir=0:/www/ name=R/A3AKIDkwMm...
Will check the slicing once I have reprinted the filament guides (had some binding on print 001) and run a new test through again.
Appreciate the forum's patience and help...
I am still confused about config file though.
Quite obviously if you set via the web tool and upload, this writes over any changes done on board and saved.
So I can only now edit the onboard file to keep my settings as a new uploaded one will lose settings I cannot change via the online tool.
R
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@FuseDeep So one more go at the configuration thing......You can send any gcode command at any time - most of them even when a print is running. These can be anything from motor currents, tool definitions, steps per mm etc. Changes made like this will "stick" as long as power is applied to the board but will be lost when power is lost. To save having to type all these commands in every time we apply power, we use the config.g file. All that happens is that when power is applied, the firmware executes each of the commands in that config.g file in sequence. So if you edit config.g you are just editing that file and any changes you make won't take effect until you run that file as per my earlier post. Does that help to clarify?
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
So I can only now edit the onboard file to keep my settings as a new uploaded one will lose settings I cannot change via the online tool.
The online configurator tool will generate a set of config files and a config.json file. If you upload the configs you get from the tool, it will replace whatever is there currently. If you edit the config.g in the web control and save your changes they will stay there for the next boot up, but if you upload a new config file over top of that obviously it will lose any changes you've made manually.
Now about that config.json file. It contains a record of what you made with the online config tool and you can upload it to the tool and it will have your settings there. So if you want, you can use only the online config tool to make changes. But that is quite tedious and limiting. You'll eventually want to be editing the files directly through the web interface. The online tool is just to get your started.
To backup all your config files you can download a zip file from the web interface. Just go into the sys folder, use the check box to select all files, then right click and select download as zip. It's always a good idea to make backups as you go.
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Filename too long: cap=120, dir=0:/www/ name=R/A3AKIDkwMm...
This seems like something has gone wrong in your /www folder. That folder contains all of the files for the web interface. I would suggest uploading the firmware files again by uploading this zip file to the system folder.
https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.05/Duet2Firmware-2.05.zip
That should refresh all the files in /www
If you still get the error after that, I would suggest pulling the SD card, putting it in a PC, deleting the /www folder and then extracting the /www folder from that firmware zip file and replacing it.
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
My main issue is triggering the wifi automtically and not need to trigger it via USB/YAT
Try moving the M98 to load the adhocwifi macro to below the M501 command. Ensure that the adhocwifi file is named correctly and that it's located in the macro folder. Also, please post the contents of the adhocwifi macro so we can see what it's actually doing.
; Network
M552 S1 ; enable networkSInce you aren't using the wifi in the traditional sense, you can remove that from earlier in your config. It will only serve to delay what we want to do with the module anyway.
Is there no way you could use a wifi router at least for the initial setup?
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Also, just a note about editing posts. Editing a post won't generate a notification, so if you go back and add new questions to an old post, no one will know about it unless they are reading the thread for the first time. Best to make a new post with new information.
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Thank you (all). Appreciate your help and patience.
Will act on pointers above tomorrow. Another long day but well worth it, @FuseDeep is now printing properly. running a 3 hr test as we speak and can't wait to start using it in anger.
FYI, If I had reflashed the old Marlin version as many times as I have the DUET 2 then I would have spent approx 1.5 hrs just waiting today, so the DUET 2 really is paying for itself (wifi snags aside, but will sort them) literally.
New gantry mech is smooth and silent. Need to re jig the Z rig and make it lovely too.
Thanks again. Will be back tomorrow GMT.
Happy New years!
R
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Sounds like you're making good progress.
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
WIFI AdHoc set up:
Every time the adhoc shuts down, I have to go back to YAT and retrigger with a M552 S2 command.
There must be a way of setting this up proper, as a default?
I have added M98 p"AdHocWIFI" to last page web interface custom settings. but it does not seem to work. It should trigger my macro?
Also, am constantly getting a filename too long error now. seems to be a bug?
Help please. R
To use AP mode:
- Send a M589 command once from YAT to set the access point name, IP address etc. These parameters will be saved within the WiFi module.
- Use M552 S2 in config.g.
Do not use M589 in config.g.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
WIFI AdHoc set up:
Every time the adhoc shuts down, I have to go back to YAT and retrigger with a M552 S2 command.
There must be a way of setting this up proper, as a default?
I have added M98 p"AdHocWIFI" to last page web interface custom settings. but it does not seem to work. It should trigger my macro?
Also, am constantly getting a filename too long error now. seems to be a bug?
Help please. R
To use AP mode:
- Send a M589 command once from YAT to set the access point name, IP address etc. These parameters will be saved within the WiFi module.
- Use M552 S2 in config.g.
Do not use M589 in config.g.
I'll clarify the documentation.
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Thanks guys, I will look at the wifi mods tomorrow or 02nd. See where we get to.
BTW, vase prints are coming out lovely. images to follow.
Oddly, on my first 50mm cube tests at 0.8mm nozzle Volcano E3D and 35mm/s print speed, I have drift on the Y axis, quite bad (photos to follow).
Then when I went to 40mm/s the drift almost disappeared but now, slightly in the opposite direction on the Y axis (bearing in mind I am running to nema 23 on 5 axis with GT3, it is tonka)!
Large vase prints come out great!
Again oddly, I got huge drift on the old set up, with the heavy gantry and marlin...that's all no longer used!
Could it be stepper cables too near heater power cables etc?
Would like it to print properly...
Happy New year!
R
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Developments (all good):
1/
Wonky cube print down to new belts needing tightening (new slack removing). Much better now, pretty awesome actually (think I need to be more methodical with twin belts, same length, and exact mirror of loops, teeth mesh loop return etc and tension mech gap to ensure identical tension both sides ).
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Lovely vase prints at 0.8mm nozzle PLA at 0.4mm layer approx 50mm/s (though I suspect running less at the nozzle due to acceleration/available distances etc). Tight clean sharp corner results at 30 to 40mm diameter spiral forms on this set up!
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Running 6x 30x30x8mm 24v fans with hot end deflection shroud. Great cooling and neat rig (images to follow). Will also try taller layer height now cooling under control. No pwm so all 6 fans come on at once (80MA each) and only 3 degrees heat deflection with quick recovery. BTW, the Duet seems to heat up my Titan/E3D Volcano set up much quicker than Marlin ever did. not farted around with PID tune or anything (and won't). BTW, is there thermal runaway control in config.g? Might loosen that up, had to in Marlin too. It let me ignore the warning once and has not come back though.
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DUET very handy to update, will change wifi code when more of you back from NYE break etc ("in case" I need to fix something ! lol
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Love the wifi print option, very simple indeed, much better than being strapped to a laptop. pause then cancel print brilliant, keeps wifi on.
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BTW, what is the best pin/output to add a big red kill button to my machine? Need to add a kill switch somehow, can just cut the power to the board but suspect there is a less traumatic option?
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Need to lose filename nag popup (again will follow @Pheadrux etc suggestions when board more populated , you can tell Marlin was a nightmare due to my general nervousness...DUET much better though. much).
8/
Have Cura 4 and looking forward to playing with graduated infill, wobbly surfaces(!), wire printing (!!! will work great with super strong cooling and give my Z a workout, this by the way no longer squeaks...realigned an idler pulley)@FuseDeep finally up and running. Will update Son.im/FuseDeep or somewhere in a day or two and flag it for you.
Thanks for your help thus far.
The 1800x600 polar printer is looking very likely. Very. Have all the parts in stock...!
R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
BTW, what is the best pin/output to add a big red kill button to my machine? Need to add a kill switch somehow, can just cut the power to the board but suspect there is a less traumatic option?
Well a big red kill switch should do just that and cut the power. But you can connect a switch to a spare end stop if you have a Duet 2 or an io port if you have Duet3. Then use M581 to initiate an emergency stop https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M581_Configure_external_trigger. (but that won't help if a Mosfet fails and a heater is stuck on at full power).
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Very happy to share a vimeo of an early test print. Tech and print info on video description:
Thanks for all your help so far.
R
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@deckingman Thanks. Will just suddenly stopping the 24v feed damage the board? It has a small residual supply (somehow) for backing up the salvage files iirc.
I mainly want to stop it if the belts are grinding against a non existent full + end stop!
R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
not farted around with PID tune or anything (and won't).
But you should. It's quite easy as well. Stable temps, quick heat up, and no overshoot.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s161@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
BTW, is there thermal runaway control in config.g?
Yes the firmware has thermal runaway protection. You can't alter it's behaviour much for safety sake, but You can set the max temp for heaters using M143. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M143_Maximum_heater_temperature
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Spurious_heater_faults_and_how_to_avoid_them
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Have Cura 4
There is a Cura plugin that allows for uploading directly to the Duet. Save a step of going to the web control to do it. Very handy.
Also be sure to set RepRap Gcode flavour and check over the slicer start gcode. Some of the Cura default printers include some gcode to set max speed values that can limit your speeds versus what you have set in config.g
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Very happy to share a vimeo of an early test print. Tech and print info on video description:
Thanks for all your help so far.
R
That is a very very tall printer!
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Yep! Very useful and a descriptive name: @Fusedeep (Fused deposition and deep fusing!)
It is also dry lube and wheeled so it can go through single doorways and be easily moved into non clean environments. The engineering is also very simple and rugged and or easily repaired.
The use of the IGUS gantry was the main reason for the dry lube approach, then as that became problematic the openbeam Delrin wheel gantry seems to be better all round for this application (OOZNEST).
Designed to print VASE prints primarily, then have composite/resin reinforcement added to the print, it acting as a former or positive mold. Also for printing my speaker prototypes and sculpture pieces such as the cellular bowl in my profile. More info on my www.Son.im homepage...
Working great and look forward to tidying it up and adding a kill switch etc!
R
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@Phaedrux Yes, Cura looks interesting (I looked at it years a back and friends often wax lyrical), I tried it very recently and it sped my gantry all the way across my bed and into the far side (even after setting my machine up in it). Kill switch anyone!?
Need to look at it carefully but keen to try wire printing and wobbly finish etc and graduated layer and infill looks very useful. lot's useful options and as you say the plug ins look great!
Looking forward to developing @FuseDeep and associated software tool chain.
Very happy it is finally printing great!
R
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@Phaedrux I do PID, or did a lot in Marlin, but as I say, just a bit reserved with code currently. losing 2.5 yrs fine tuning on Marlin this summer has burned a bit!
But will PID at some point. Frankly, it works great currently so not in a big rush. My new 6 fan cooling rig has transformed the print quality. It was when attempting to PID my Volcano with the new 6 fan rig that exposed the lost marlin file....was heartbreaking. move on Rich...
I only get a 3 degree dip and fast recover when all 6 fans come on (not pwm controlled so on or off currently), the fan head shroud is crucial in keeping the extra air off the silicone E3D sock on the heater block (highly recommend this add on). works a treat. Will make a better version that is also the throat fan break clip at some point. images to follow...
Thanks again. R
