Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.

Phaedrux

Sounds like you're making good progress.

dc42

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

WIFI AdHoc set up:

Every time the adhoc shuts down, I have to go back to YAT and retrigger with a M552 S2 command.

There must be a way of setting this up proper, as a default?

I have added M98 p"AdHocWIFI" to last page web interface custom settings. but it does not seem to work. It should trigger my macro?

Also, am constantly getting a filename too long error now. seems to be a bug?

Help please. R

To use AP mode:

Send a M589 command once from YAT to set the access point name, IP address etc. These parameters will be saved within the WiFi module.
Use M552 S2 in config.g.

Do not use M589 in config.g.

Phaedrux

@dc42 said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

WIFI AdHoc set up:

Every time the adhoc shuts down, I have to go back to YAT and retrigger with a M552 S2 command.

There must be a way of setting this up proper, as a default?

I have added M98 p"AdHocWIFI" to last page web interface custom settings. but it does not seem to work. It should trigger my macro?

Also, am constantly getting a filename too long error now. seems to be a bug?

Help please. R

To use AP mode:

Send a M589 command once from YAT to set the access point name, IP address etc. These parameters will be saved within the WiFi module.

Use M552 S2 in config.g.

Do not use M589 in config.g.

I'll clarify the documentation.

FuseDeep

Thanks guys, I will look at the wifi mods tomorrow or 02nd. See where we get to.

BTW, vase prints are coming out lovely. images to follow.

Oddly, on my first 50mm cube tests at 0.8mm nozzle Volcano E3D and 35mm/s print speed, I have drift on the Y axis, quite bad (photos to follow).

Then when I went to 40mm/s the drift almost disappeared but now, slightly in the opposite direction on the Y axis (bearing in mind I am running to nema 23 on 5 axis with GT3, it is tonka)!

Large vase prints come out great!

Again oddly, I got huge drift on the old set up, with the heavy gantry and marlin...that's all no longer used!

Could it be stepper cables too near heater power cables etc?

Would like it to print properly...

Happy New year!

R

FuseDeep

Developments (all good):

1/
Wonky cube print down to new belts needing tightening (new slack removing). Much better now, pretty awesome actually (think I need to be more methodical with twin belts, same length, and exact mirror of loops, teeth mesh loop return etc and tension mech gap to ensure identical tension both sides ).
2/
Lovely vase prints at 0.8mm nozzle PLA at 0.4mm layer approx 50mm/s (though I suspect running less at the nozzle due to acceleration/available distances etc). Tight clean sharp corner results at 30 to 40mm diameter spiral forms on this set up!
3/
Running 6x 30x30x8mm 24v fans with hot end deflection shroud. Great cooling and neat rig (images to follow). Will also try taller layer height now cooling under control. No pwm so all 6 fans come on at once (80MA each) and only 3 degrees heat deflection with quick recovery. BTW, the Duet seems to heat up my Titan/E3D Volcano set up much quicker than Marlin ever did. not farted around with PID tune or anything (and won't). BTW, is there thermal runaway control in config.g? Might loosen that up, had to in Marlin too. It let me ignore the warning once and has not come back though.
4/
DUET very handy to update, will change wifi code when more of you back from NYE break etc ("in case" I need to fix something ! lol
5/
Love the wifi print option, very simple indeed, much better than being strapped to a laptop. pause then cancel print brilliant, keeps wifi on.
6/
BTW, what is the best pin/output to add a big red kill button to my machine? Need to add a kill switch somehow, can just cut the power to the board but suspect there is a less traumatic option?
7/
Need to lose filename nag popup (again will follow @Pheadrux etc suggestions when board more populated , you can tell Marlin was a nightmare due to my general nervousness...DUET much better though. much).
8/
Have Cura 4 and looking forward to playing with graduated infill, wobbly surfaces(!), wire printing (!!! will work great with super strong cooling and give my Z a workout, this by the way no longer squeaks...realigned an idler pulley)

@FuseDeep finally up and running. Will update Son.im/FuseDeep or somewhere in a day or two and flag it for you.

Thanks for your help thus far.

The 1800x600 polar printer is looking very likely. Very. Have all the parts in stock...!

R

deckingman

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

BTW, what is the best pin/output to add a big red kill button to my machine? Need to add a kill switch somehow, can just cut the power to the board but suspect there is a less traumatic option?

Well a big red kill switch should do just that and cut the power. But you can connect a switch to a spare end stop if you have a Duet 2 or an io port if you have Duet3. Then use M581 to initiate an emergency stop https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M581_Configure_external_trigger. (but that won't help if a Mosfet fails and a heater is stuck on at full power).

FuseDeep

Very happy to share a vimeo of an early test print. Tech and print info on video description:

https://vimeo.com/382582071

Thanks for all your help so far.

R

FuseDeep

@deckingman Thanks. Will just suddenly stopping the 24v feed damage the board? It has a small residual supply (somehow) for backing up the salvage files iirc.

I mainly want to stop it if the belts are grinding against a non existent full + end stop!

R

Phaedrux

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

not farted around with PID tune or anything (and won't).

But you should. It's quite easy as well. Stable temps, quick heat up, and no overshoot.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s161

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

BTW, is there thermal runaway control in config.g?

Yes the firmware has thermal runaway protection. You can't alter it's behaviour much for safety sake, but You can set the max temp for heaters using M143. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M143_Maximum_heater_temperature

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Spurious_heater_faults_and_how_to_avoid_them

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

Have Cura 4

There is a Cura plugin that allows for uploading directly to the Duet. Save a step of going to the web control to do it. Very handy.

Also be sure to set RepRap Gcode flavour and check over the slicer start gcode. Some of the Cura default printers include some gcode to set max speed values that can limit your speeds versus what you have set in config.g

Phaedrux

@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:

Very happy to share a vimeo of an early test print. Tech and print info on video description:

https://vimeo.com/382582071

Thanks for all your help so far.

R

That is a very very tall printer!

FuseDeep

@Phaedrux

Yep! Very useful and a descriptive name: @Fusedeep (Fused deposition and deep fusing!)

It is also dry lube and wheeled so it can go through single doorways and be easily moved into non clean environments. The engineering is also very simple and rugged and or easily repaired.

The use of the IGUS gantry was the main reason for the dry lube approach, then as that became problematic the openbeam Delrin wheel gantry seems to be better all round for this application (OOZNEST).

Designed to print VASE prints primarily, then have composite/resin reinforcement added to the print, it acting as a former or positive mold. Also for printing my speaker prototypes and sculpture pieces such as the cellular bowl in my profile. More info on my www.Son.im homepage...

Working great and look forward to tidying it up and adding a kill switch etc!

R

FuseDeep

@Phaedrux Yes, Cura looks interesting (I looked at it years a back and friends often wax lyrical), I tried it very recently and it sped my gantry all the way across my bed and into the far side (even after setting my machine up in it). Kill switch anyone!?

Need to look at it carefully but keen to try wire printing and wobbly finish etc and graduated layer and infill looks very useful. lot's useful options and as you say the plug ins look great!

Looking forward to developing @FuseDeep and associated software tool chain.

Very happy it is finally printing great!

R

FuseDeep

@Phaedrux I do PID, or did a lot in Marlin, but as I say, just a bit reserved with code currently. losing 2.5 yrs fine tuning on Marlin this summer has burned a bit!

But will PID at some point. Frankly, it works great currently so not in a big rush. My new 6 fan cooling rig has transformed the print quality. It was when attempting to PID my Volcano with the new 6 fan rig that exposed the lost marlin file....was heartbreaking. move on Rich...

I only get a 3 degree dip and fast recover when all 6 fans come on (not pwm controlled so on or off currently), the fan head shroud is crucial in keeping the extra air off the silicone E3D sock on the heater block (highly recommend this add on). works a treat. Will make a better version that is also the throat fan break clip at some point. images to follow...

Thanks again. R

FuseDeep

@deckingman @dc42

I assume just cutting the power won't hurt it? I think DUET has a salvage option too so perhaps the simplest way all round?

This looks like it, will read and apply:

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_to_resume_a_print_after_a_power_failure

R

deckingman

@FuseDeep Cutting the power won't do any harm at all. I always turn my printer off when not in use by cutting the power.

FuseDeep

@deckingman Thanks, I meant more mid print rather than when everything is cool and static. But it would seem to be the most fail safe option.

Time to put in a big red button!

deckingman

@FuseDeep Yes, it's safer because if a Mosfet failed in a state which left the heater on, cutting power will cut of the heater too. Just be aware that if you do have to resort to using it when the hot end is heated, then you'll likely get a blockage in the heat sink as filament melts where it shouldn't and then solidifies (but you probably know all that).

FuseDeep

@deckingman

Thanks, good point though. In the old days the extruder throat fan was on a permanent 24v/12v feed so never off. May just do that. simplest and zero problems.

FuseDeep

Some terrific results in testing:

This table leg a vase print at 2h26mins
0.8mm nozzle
0.4mm layer height
45mm/s

Fairly sedate but reliable and very tidy. This print even had a reel change half way through! love that option. A very useful size and speed printer. Handles complex/non vase prints great too.

VIMEO Video

https://vimeo.com/383885684

To Do:

Lose long file name nag (not acted on above advice yet)
/
Set up full power off restart, resurrect?
/
Finalise retract/extruder settings for even better results, especially when travelling between print parts across large bed
/
Big red kill switch, in stock and awaiting install.
/
make/tidy board, cable and wire runs/mounts
/
There is one slight issue, using 2 steppers on one axis works brilliantly, and obviously when powered they are locked electronically in alignment. However sometimes they are unpowered and I sort the filament etc and move the gantry and they, naturally go off alignment...any way to prevent this other than a rodded join? or one stepper and a rod link (like the 2 stepper set up. works very well...just asking.

R

PS. I added spring loaded hinged mounts to the print bed corner guide wheels (as the alloy openbeam eqv. has some variation in it). This has transformed bed travel stability and print quality even further, as the original fixed wheels could leave the vertical corner and the bed oscillate laterally!

FuseDeep

Question:

Why do the 3 job print times shown on the screen not match up, and which is useful?

File/Filament/Layer

?

Thanks R