@luca-Massimiliano the colors for the steppers reflect the typical colors of the wires on steppers. As such, the red and black do not refer to voltage and gnd. Unfortunately the allocation of colors to stepper phases is not standardized, so you will need to check phase pairs (by measuring resistance for example) to ensure stepper wiring is correct.

@jay_s_uk Aha, sweet!

The SD card contains the configuration files. Almost never need to wipe it. The firmware is stored on the board itself. If you're having trouble accessing the board, after restoring the SD card, try this guide,

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Duet_wont_respond

@itsthejoker The main thing is that your issue seems to be fixed - despite the fact that we're not 100% sure why (I still think it's just that the tuning cycle needs to be repeated a few times, especially with high powered heaters).

Why try using a DC motor as an extruder? It goes back to the recent (ish) discussions on print artifacts that are potentially caused by extruders.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/23502/vertical-lines-vs-geared-extruders/89
https://www.bondtech.se/2023/01/26/how-we-improved-our-plastic-main-gear/
https://www.bondtech.se/2023/03/09/turning-lemons-into-lemonade-chapter-two/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6JmCdovE0U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWuSsYKI-YM

I've always been fairly happy with the print quality I get out of my two BMG extruders, however I've been impressed with the surface quality of prints done by my Stratasys Dimension BST 1200es (excluding 'ringing' artifacts on direction changes). Inspired by the DuePrint project posted here and on Hackaday, I pulled the extruder off the Stratasys printhead, and worked to get it integrated onto my DIY IDEX machine.

Prior to that though - about a year ago I started looking into designing my own extruder - inspired by all innovations of the LGX, Orbiter, Sherpa, etc. I was using these extremely slim Nema17 motors (PKP242D23A2) that are similar in stature to the popular pancake motors used on the newer generation of extruders (chief difference being the larger shaft diameter). As I played around with designs, it felt like I was reinventing the wheel - why not use a small stepper with an integrated gearbox (aside from price... right?). Starting looking at 15:1 Nema11 motors from Oriental Motor (PKP223D15A-CS15), but then the extruder project fell to the wayside. This past October I came across a nifty Nema8 with a 16:1 gearbox, and have been using that in a few different extruder combinations.

Based on the DuePrint project, I figured integrating the DC motor into the existing design would be easy enough - and after working past some Beta2 bugs, it was!

58f07574-fdf6-42f6-abbc-378ab6955402-image.png
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvajxcZIf6M

Unfortunately, my lack of knowledge starts to creep in. With the Geckodrive G320x, I'm getting excessive motor thermal rise (at extreme conditions, the controller/encoder has either faulted out, or I disengaged the motor based on concerns of it failing) within 15 minutes or so. I'm seeing at least a 35°C thermal rise, and if my chamber sits at 62°C, that is not good. The twist is (detailed temperature measurements pending) that the Dimension series chamber temperatures settle at 75°C, and the motors operate comfortably at that temperature.

The Maxon P/N on the motor and gearhead don't lead anywhere (nor have I directly asked them, assume its 'proprietary' to Stratasys), but I'm pretty sure they're the similar to the following:

RE 25 Motor - P/N 118743, 12V nominal voltage, 2.18ohm terminal resistance, 1.25A nominal current GP 32 Planetary Gearhead - P/N 166167, 86:1 (with the 8mm shaft option) 1000 CPT MR Encoder - P/N 225780

At slow speeds, I have to turn the current pot on the G320x to ~2.5A, and in normal printing conditions, I have to bring it closer to 4A. If I've identified a similar motor, that is much too high!

From the uPrint (very similar print head to the 1200es) service manual:

The 5 VDC and 12 VDC are used by the controller board, single board computer, and hard drive. The 12 VDC also powers the filament motors. • The 24 VDC powers the stepper motors, solenoids, fans, and chamber lights. • The 120 VDC circuit powers the model heater and a separate 120 VDC supply powers the support heater.

Block diagram of the uPrint/1200es - of note is the L298P Dual Full Bridge for the extruder motor.
2ac09183-a753-4fbb-b5ce-4b00635388f7-image.png

This means then for the DuePrint implementation... we're using the G320x to signal to the PDB, and in turn the L298P?
78917a25-2a7d-4236-8561-0dbdba83371b-image.png

Still doing some learning and digging around.

EDIT - Next Day Update:
Trying to use my brain here - my motor current estimates were based on how far I turned the current trimpot on the G320x (starting from 'off'). As one could expect, there is a bit of slop in the trimpot. For the setup with my DIY printer - Making the assumption that V.controller_in * I.controller_in = U.motor * I.motor, I finally hooked a meter in line with the motor controller input (24v supply). Testing at standstill (dithering) and slow 5mm/s feedrates, I'm sitting at roughly 24v * .4A = 9.6W. This took minuscule adjustments to the trimpot, closely monitoring the meter reading. I'm at a steady thermal condition, with ambient (chamber/bed is off) at 22°C, and the motor casement at 57°C (35°C rise, but may be wise to imagine the true range is 30°C - 40°C to include some error with the readings). Separate thermal testing inside the Stratasys is ongoing now.

@dhmclean Yes, I have two older Asus routers that run 24/7 for months whereas my latest 3 (two mesh and one standard set into the mesh) flake over time fairly consistently. Admittedly the older firmware was comparatively basic.

@alankilian I might have found the problem.
I checked the resistances of the 5V signal wires
from the breakout board to the stepper drivers again and I found one cable that has infinite resistance.
It seems like it is one of the dir+- cables. So that would explain why the motor is running but cannot change its director.

At first I was expecting it to be the crimps or the connectors, but it appears that even with new crimps the cable is corrupted.

I'm checking in again in the evening and take a new cable, measure the resistances and hope that this solves to problem.

Have you used the erase jumper or button on the Duet to clear the firmware yet?

If you already have a working firmware on the board you don't need to erase it like that.

Please try following these procedures #1 and if that doesn't work, proceed to #2.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_firmware#fallback-procedure-1

Thank you o_lampe. I will give that a whirl and report back!

@droftarts
Thank you, that was the problem, thank you very much you are amazing 😁

@engikeneer said in external drive a4988 duet no work:

@dpsslaser2020 said in external drive a4988 duet no work:

M563 P0 D0:1 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
M563 P1 D0:2 H1 F0 ; define tool 1
M567 P5 E3:5

Here you have assigned two tools. One uses extruders 0 & 1 (okay), the other tool uses extruder 1 & 2 (which doesn't exist).

In your M567 you have assigned a mixing ratio of 3:5 on tool 5 (which doesn't exist!).

You want:

M563 P0 D0:1 H1 F0 ; define tool 0 using extruder 0 and 1 M567 P0 E1:1 ; assign 1:1 mixing ratio to tool 0

It starts in a proven basic mix mode with the control E axis and both motors move in sync!
Thank you!
Have a nice day!

@phaedrux @droftarts Thank you for your response and sorry for delay on response, I finally got all the hardware and I'm with testing now the configuration and movement 🙂

Regards

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll explore that path first. Discovered that I can get a new one from Digikey for only 10 bucks.

Edit: Well Digikey was out of stock, so went to Mouser.

There's a series of guides on converting the Ender 3 over. In the end it's quite similar to the ender 5. It may help clarify some things.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37

Part 5, for calibration may be what you're after right now.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+3+Mini+5++Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/87

The second link is for a more recent guide using RRF3, which is still in progress.

@3dpnut said in Duet2 Wifi Driver 3 overheat issue:

Also, Drive 3 (the bad one) still gets hot.

you might be able to desolder the chip

You can also take a look at my Duet 2 Wifi case >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802496
You have a specific requirement let me know
Cheers

There's also this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4133271

Yes, probably. In many ways setting up basic LEDs is the same as setting up a fan. Since duet switches pwm on the negative side you can source your voltage elsewhere and then use a fan or heater pin to control it.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans

In fact if you configure it as an actual fan it can show up as a slider on the web interface for dimming.

@dc42 It's the second module which failed on the board. I will wait my ethernet module for swap now, more reliable

@droftarts said in show and connect to available SSIDs through paneldue:

@dc42 could M557 show available Wi-Fi networks (plus signal strength) as well as remembered?

Ian

We would need to have a separate command (M552 S3?) to do a network scan and then return the results. It involves changes to the wifi server firmware as well as RRF (and PanelDue if you want to display it there). I'll add it to the work list.

@jmshep That may have been the case in 3.0 because there were still some default pin associations, but in 3.1.1 all default associations are removed and you no longer need to use nil to undefine them. Rather you now must define the pins being used.