Solved Creality Ender 5 Configuration
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I have my the Duet Wifi CR-10S setup with EZABL and Titan Aero, I can share my configs with you if that will help you get things going. You'll have to adjust your steps and figure out the proper config for your probe.
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Cracked it!!
Well, lots of tuning to do but fans working, heaters working, print head and bed moving around as smooth as can be. And quite, did I mention quite, whhhhisper quiet!!!
I can go to bed now it’s only 05:00am
Before I go, have a look at this guy on Youtube, his video was of immense help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nqddfxHla0
Well done Duet, a great product.
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Sounds like we both got good configs! Here's mine for comparison: https://gist.github.com/mindoftea/c0dc708a8f63b4652e3d460ea56e2824
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I'm also waiting for a Duet wifi for my Ender 5. Having others' configurations will be good if I want to check something. Thank you.
I might mention an issue I've also been bouncing around a bit. It seems that my Ender 5 had overlong screws that attach the power supply. One had broken through the insulation under +V and shorted it to the chassis. Since the DC side (and possibly AC side for that matter) is floating, it didn't smoke anything, but it did cause parts such as the SD card slot to be at -24 V potential from the chassis. You might want to check yours.
I'm also curious about how people mounted the boards.
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@xtl said in Creality Ender 5 Configuration:
I might mention an issue I've also been bouncing around a bit. It seems that my Ender 5 had overlong screws that attach the power supply. One had broken through the insulation under +V and shorted it to the chassis. Since the DC side (and possibly AC side for that matter) is floating, it didn't smoke anything, but it did cause parts such as the SD card slot to be at -24 V potential from the chassis. You might want to check yours.
My Ender 3 Pro came with some PSU screws that seemed way too long for my comfort as well. I used a nut as a spacer at the time I assembled it just to be safe. If I recall it came assembled, and the only reason I noticed was that I took it apart to inspect something.
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I took the PSU apart as a replacement should be on its way. Turns out another screw reached in far enough to leave a round indent in the insulation and the solder trace underneath. The trace between the mains rectifier (or its NTC) and the main reservoir cap positive. That probably had just barely not broken through.
OTOH, I picked up my Duet Wifi board from mail this morning, so there's some exciting work ahead.
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I'm working on this exact mod right now. Thanks for sharing the config. I should be up and ready to test some time tonight just have to terminate EVERY connector correctly so I can plug it in to test.
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Hi, I am wiring Duet Mastro to my Ender 5. I created reduction for main box screws. I will try mover power supply and get duet to the original enclosure.
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I finally got everything back together and have enough configuration that homing, heating, cooling and all the other connections seem to be working.
Now I'll need to get on with calibrations and settings hunts and tests, but I'm hoping to have the printer back in running condition soon.
It is very cramped, but it's in there now. After this, I decided to flip the bottom cover so the fan is outside and drilled a hole for the fan wires. I'll need to print or otherwise make some blanking plates and plugs for the extra holes.
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@xtl Hello. Glad you got everything working. Any chance you could send your confing as im kind of stuck. Thank you in advance.
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I don't have much of a config yet. I might have managed to calibrate the extruder (E378.66) and fought with my network devices all day today. Maybe someone will have good answers if you can describe what the exact problem is.
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@mrhtgreen The Ender 3 Pro is pretty close to the Ender 5, if you need a look at an example config to get you unstuck perhaps this will help: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10196/ender-3-pro-configuration/11
What specifically are you stuck on? What works and doesn't work?
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This is working pretty well on my Ender 5, still playing with the settings but had some nice prints from it.
Points to note, I am using a geared extruder and a none Creality stepper motor on the X carriage. If you load the .json file into RR configurator, make changes to suit your setup you should at least be up and running.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1b1Gn-cnLB-sOeeHe4wOwwzi_YWfRM7oO
[0_1557268102482_config.zip](Uploading 100%) -
A little bit of ringing (think that's what they call it) to take care of, but overall very happy.
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I finally found some time and energy to get back to the Ender. I had a few fans swapped, but otherwise things seem to work. I ran the PID tunings, leveled the bed and printed some small bits. First parts out of the Ender and Duet! It really is amazingly quiet for its movements but the full set of fans is still a lot of noise.
Next is figuring out parameters, pressure advance(?), speeds etc.
My PIDs ended up at: (edit: new therm values)
; Heaters M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang for bed heater, set PWM limit M305 P0 T98801 B4185 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 M143 H0 S90 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 90C M305 P1 T98801 B4185 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 M143 H1 S230 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 230C ; Heater cal ; Heater 1 model: gain 355.8, time constant 112.4, dead time 5.0, max PWM 1.00, ; calibration voltage 24.1, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default ; Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P11.2, I0.470, D39.5 ; Computed PID parameters for load change: P11. M307 H1 A355.8 C112.4 D5 V24.1 B0 ; Bed cal ; Heater 0 model: gain 141.3, time constant 461.3, dead time 1.2, max PWM 1.00, ; calibration voltage 24.0, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default ; Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P488.5, I20.825, D407.9 ; Computed PID parameters for load change: P M307 H0 A141.3 C461.3 D1.2 V24.0 B0I presume that looks sane?
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Going to be starting this project myself shortly. Good to have some starting Values.
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@xtl said in Creality Ender 5 Configuration:
I presume that looks sane?
The D value for the bed heater (1.2 seconds) looks suspiciously low, although low values are not unusual if you are using a silicone heater with a built-in thermistor. I suggest you heat the bed to printing temperature, then watch the temperature carefully to see whether it is stable. If you see it oscillating regularly above and below the set temperature, try a larger D value such as 5. The other parameters look normal to me.
