Creality CR-10 upgrade

dc42

I suggest a few thousand uF rated at 35V.

Agniusm

Thanks.
Off topic question.
I got this effect on my other printer and i would call it rippling. Its not ghosting as its throughout Y axis.
I have tried changing toothed pulley to smooth, gates belt to unbranded one, belt tension, checked rigidity of the frame. I don't know why it runs on Y only as X has the same motion components. It runs on MGW9C knockoffs.
I now have swapped a motor, this had an effect although far less, rippling is still there.
Would microstepping have an effect on this?

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

Off topic question.
I got this effect on my other printer and i would call it rippling. Its not ghosting as its throughout Y axis.
I have tried changing toothed pulley to smooth, gates belt to unbranded one, belt tension, checked rigidity of the frame. I don't know why it runs on Y only as X has the same motion components. It runs on MGW9C knockoffs.
I now have swapped a motor, this had an effect although far less, rippling is still there.
Would microstepping have an effect on this?

Some types of driver can't do low current microstepping very well, which is one possible cause of this effect. DRV8825 drivers are especially prone to it.

Agniusm

I have a electronics pile for salvaging parts and found b&o amp pcb with 6 1000uF 35V caps paralleled. I just cut out the piece and it worked. Today i have received my ordered caps which are 20000uF 35V but i will have to fit them somewhere else. Next thing is the gantry. It drops so i will install anti-backlash nuts. It does help if the gantry is not too heavy. Dont fancy z max enstop and aditional wires.

Agniusm

Is there a benefit of using G32 and then G29 together?

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

Is there a benefit of using G32 and then G29 together?

G32 can be used for a few different things:

For old-style bed compensation. This is no longer recommended and may be withdraw at some point in the future. Use G29 mesh bed compensation instead.
On a delta printer, for auto calibration. After running G32, if necessary you can run G29.
On printers with multiple independent Z leadscrews, to level the bed (in one or two directions). After levelling the bed using G32, you can use G29 to compensate for a non-flat bed, or for a sagging gantry.
On most types of printer except deltas, to probe the bed and tell you by how much to adjust the bed levelling screws (similar to #3 except that you adjust the screws by hand instead of the firmware adjusting the leadscrews). Again, you can use G29 afterwards to compensate for a non-flat bed, or for a sagging gantry.

So in answer to your question: you cannot use G32 to do old-style 3-, 4- or 5-point bed compensation and follow that with G29 mesh bed compensation, because if you do then only the mesh bed compensation will be used. But you can use G32 to do auto calibration or automatic or manual bed levelling, and follow that with G29 for bed compensation.

Agniusm

The reason i am asking is that problem i had with mesh compensation persist. Its better since i changed my Z motor brackets to metal and replaced with larger motors.
I cant seem to figure out why it is happening and thought perhaps i am missing something.
I have done Z calibration and set offset as per wiki in the middle of the bed. I have induction probe and they are affected by heat, but i have script to minimize that effect and the pattern does not suggest that it is Z probes fault.
Maybe there is a parameter that limits how much compensation can be done as per lead screw gantry leveling?
I have bought a cloned duet for my ender 3 test rig (as i did not want to pay the premium for a project i might abandon, and if all goes well, original maestro is well suited)
So, i have the same issue. Its the same prusa probe but the pattern is different. I mean the shape of it is different.
Before the clone, it was running TH3D marlin with the same prusa probe on stock malian board, and with 9 probe points each first layer was pristine.
If my original duet machine has high left rear and low front right spots,
clone machine has high front left only.
I brought up this cloned machine just to elaborate that the issue i have is not constrained to my original duet printer.
It looks like if it does not do good enough job at compensating.
I see Z leascrew moving slightly but still it does not make even first layer across whole bed.

dc42

Are you sure that you have the probe wired correctly and configured correctly in firmware? If it was giving a consistent trigger height using your old controller, it should give a consistent trigger height using the Duet, if you have configured it correctly.

You can measure the trigger height at various points on the bed as described at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe#Section_Calibrate_the_Z_probe_trigger_height, to check whether it is consistent.

Agniusm

Is there a way to force wifi module to attempt reconnect? I cant post my config section of z probe as its printing.
I would say my Z is consistent as i get each print the same. Too close at the back left and too far at the front right. If it wasn't triggering consistently,it would be all over on each print but as they are consistent i don't know what the hell is happening.
I will attempt another calibration. Just in case its my fault.
My Z probe is connected to Z stop outer pins for GND and signal and i am getting 5V off of expansion pin 1.
I will post my config part later when connected

Agniusm

@Phaedrux Is it possible to connect Z max endstop to E1 stop connector? How to define it?

Phaedrux

@agniusm I'm not exactly sure. I've never done that before. My Z probe uses the probe connector, so the Z endstop is free for my Z max switch.

I don't think you would have to do anything to specifically define it other than to say you have a Z max endstop, then in your homing files you will need a G1 S1 Z+ move to seek the endstop. But I could be completely wrong. @dc42 would have to give you an exact answer.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M574_Set_endstop_configuration

M574 Z2 S0 ; Set active-low switch at the high end for Z Max.

Are your switches active-high or active-low triggers?

Agniusm

My z endstop is polulated and e0 is for filament runout If I remember correctly, switch I want to use is NC. I thought I need to assign e1 endstop to z max but I found no hint in wiki.

dc42

What do you want your Z Max endstop to do when it is triggered? if you want it to carry out an emergency stop, you can do that by connecting it to the E1 endstop connector and using the M581 command to assign a trigger action to it,

Phaedrux

@dc42 what if you want to use it as a zmax endstop but connected to the e1 endstop? Can endstops be defined in software?

Agniusm

@dc42, i want to use it for rehoming Z after powerloss. My gantry is heavy and it sags some.
But yes, as @Phaedrux i too would like to know if its possible to reassign endstops.

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

@dc42, i want to use it for rehoming Z after powerloss. My gantry is heavy and it sags some.

In that case, in your home-after-power-loss script you can use M574 Z2 S2 to select Z probe as the homing switch type, M558 P4 to select switch Z probe, and use G91 G1 S1 Znnn to home Z. Then use M574 and M558 to reset the homing switch type/position and Z probe type back to normal.

Reassigning endstop switches is not yet possible but will be implemented soon.

Agniusm

@dc42 Should i use M116 after resetting Z probe type commands in "home-after-power-loss script" and before changing it back to normal commands?

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

@dc42 Should i use M116 after resetting Z probe type commands in "home-after-power-loss script" and before changing it back to normal commands?

You need to use M116 somewhere in your resurrect-prologue.g file, to make sure that the heaters are up to temperature before it completes.

Agniusm

So i am back at mesh mapping and my inconsistent first layer accross the bedoinI might be doig it wrong.
My induction probe is offset on x axis by -24.5mm only and inline with the nozzle on y.

Do i need to position the nozzle where i want to probe or do i need to position the probe where i want to probe?
I am homing with probe and at the moment i do that at x10 y10.
Would probing at the bed center improve accuracy?

dc42

In general, when probing you tell the firmware where you want to probe, then it uses the declared XY probe offsets to put the probe where you specified, not the nozzle. The exception is a plain G30 or G30 S-1 move, which probes wherever the head currently is.

When using a Z probe to home Z, it is best to probe at the centre of the bed, because any print do is likely to use that area of the bed.