Creality CR-10 upgrade

Phaedrux

In config.g:

; POWER LOSS RECOVERY
;
M911 S21 R23 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-1 F500" 	; Configure automatic saving on power loss

The resurrect.g file gets created automatically by the Duet during a print and contains the temps and position. This is the file you "print" to resume after a powerloss.

; resurrect-prologue.g
; Called by resurrect.g after a resume from powerloss.
G28 XY			; Home X and Y
M98 P"HomeZMax.g"	; Call Home Z Max macro
M116			; Wait for temps
M83			; Relative Extrusion
G1 E2 F1000		; Undo retraction and prime nozzle
; Returns to resurrect.g to resume print

You'll have to test the behaviour of your printer during a power loss to see how the Z axis (gantry or bed) reacts. If it drops, you'll need to home the Z somehow, either manually with G92 Z at a known location, or with Z max.

Agniusm

Thanks. Great, i will try this and see if i need to add a z max endstop.

Agniusm

OK, so the resume works. I don't know why it does not lift the nozzle? I have left retraction to minimum as per your code and i have increased voltage detection to S23V (tried with S21V too), R23.5V. My power supply is at 24.5V dropping to 24.3V occasionally.
Are the fans disables automatically?
What else can i do?
If it would lift a nozzle, i would be golde. 3 out of 4 times there is no visible mark where it resumed except that plastic blob caused by nozzle not lifting up

Phaedrux

@agniusm there may not be enough juice left to raise the head.

I'm not sure off hand if the fans turn off automatically but you could disable them manually by adding an M106 in the M911 command.

Agniusm

I could also put larger output caps on psu as well but that is a bit too much of hacking.

I will try to disable the fans and turn off the retraction. I can deal with that when resuming manually

dc42

Typically the PSU has 3 sets of output terminals, and you use only 1 or 2 of them to connect it to the Duet. You can easily connect a large capacitor between a spare set of output terminals.

Agniusm

@dc42 That'd work. Should should i just go for 60VDC and largest capacity i could salvage? Electrolytic?

dc42

I suggest a few thousand uF rated at 35V.

Agniusm

Thanks.
Off topic question.
I got this effect on my other printer and i would call it rippling. Its not ghosting as its throughout Y axis.
I have tried changing toothed pulley to smooth, gates belt to unbranded one, belt tension, checked rigidity of the frame. I don't know why it runs on Y only as X has the same motion components. It runs on MGW9C knockoffs.
I now have swapped a motor, this had an effect although far less, rippling is still there.
Would microstepping have an effect on this?

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

Off topic question.
I got this effect on my other printer and i would call it rippling. Its not ghosting as its throughout Y axis.
I have tried changing toothed pulley to smooth, gates belt to unbranded one, belt tension, checked rigidity of the frame. I don't know why it runs on Y only as X has the same motion components. It runs on MGW9C knockoffs.
I now have swapped a motor, this had an effect although far less, rippling is still there.
Would microstepping have an effect on this?

Some types of driver can't do low current microstepping very well, which is one possible cause of this effect. DRV8825 drivers are especially prone to it.

Agniusm

I have a electronics pile for salvaging parts and found b&o amp pcb with 6 1000uF 35V caps paralleled. I just cut out the piece and it worked. Today i have received my ordered caps which are 20000uF 35V but i will have to fit them somewhere else. Next thing is the gantry. It drops so i will install anti-backlash nuts. It does help if the gantry is not too heavy. Dont fancy z max enstop and aditional wires.

Agniusm

Is there a benefit of using G32 and then G29 together?

dc42

@agniusm said in Creality CR-10 upgrade:

Is there a benefit of using G32 and then G29 together?

G32 can be used for a few different things:

For old-style bed compensation. This is no longer recommended and may be withdraw at some point in the future. Use G29 mesh bed compensation instead.
On a delta printer, for auto calibration. After running G32, if necessary you can run G29.
On printers with multiple independent Z leadscrews, to level the bed (in one or two directions). After levelling the bed using G32, you can use G29 to compensate for a non-flat bed, or for a sagging gantry.
On most types of printer except deltas, to probe the bed and tell you by how much to adjust the bed levelling screws (similar to #3 except that you adjust the screws by hand instead of the firmware adjusting the leadscrews). Again, you can use G29 afterwards to compensate for a non-flat bed, or for a sagging gantry.

So in answer to your question: you cannot use G32 to do old-style 3-, 4- or 5-point bed compensation and follow that with G29 mesh bed compensation, because if you do then only the mesh bed compensation will be used. But you can use G32 to do auto calibration or automatic or manual bed levelling, and follow that with G29 for bed compensation.

Agniusm

The reason i am asking is that problem i had with mesh compensation persist. Its better since i changed my Z motor brackets to metal and replaced with larger motors.
I cant seem to figure out why it is happening and thought perhaps i am missing something.
I have done Z calibration and set offset as per wiki in the middle of the bed. I have induction probe and they are affected by heat, but i have script to minimize that effect and the pattern does not suggest that it is Z probes fault.
Maybe there is a parameter that limits how much compensation can be done as per lead screw gantry leveling?
I have bought a cloned duet for my ender 3 test rig (as i did not want to pay the premium for a project i might abandon, and if all goes well, original maestro is well suited)
So, i have the same issue. Its the same prusa probe but the pattern is different. I mean the shape of it is different.
Before the clone, it was running TH3D marlin with the same prusa probe on stock malian board, and with 9 probe points each first layer was pristine.
If my original duet machine has high left rear and low front right spots,
clone machine has high front left only.
I brought up this cloned machine just to elaborate that the issue i have is not constrained to my original duet printer.
It looks like if it does not do good enough job at compensating.
I see Z leascrew moving slightly but still it does not make even first layer across whole bed.

dc42

Are you sure that you have the probe wired correctly and configured correctly in firmware? If it was giving a consistent trigger height using your old controller, it should give a consistent trigger height using the Duet, if you have configured it correctly.

You can measure the trigger height at various points on the bed as described at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe#Section_Calibrate_the_Z_probe_trigger_height, to check whether it is consistent.

Agniusm

Is there a way to force wifi module to attempt reconnect? I cant post my config section of z probe as its printing.
I would say my Z is consistent as i get each print the same. Too close at the back left and too far at the front right. If it wasn't triggering consistently,it would be all over on each print but as they are consistent i don't know what the hell is happening.
I will attempt another calibration. Just in case its my fault.
My Z probe is connected to Z stop outer pins for GND and signal and i am getting 5V off of expansion pin 1.
I will post my config part later when connected

Agniusm

@Phaedrux Is it possible to connect Z max endstop to E1 stop connector? How to define it?

Phaedrux

@agniusm I'm not exactly sure. I've never done that before. My Z probe uses the probe connector, so the Z endstop is free for my Z max switch.

I don't think you would have to do anything to specifically define it other than to say you have a Z max endstop, then in your homing files you will need a G1 S1 Z+ move to seek the endstop. But I could be completely wrong. @dc42 would have to give you an exact answer.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M574_Set_endstop_configuration

M574 Z2 S0 ; Set active-low switch at the high end for Z Max.

Are your switches active-high or active-low triggers?

Agniusm

My z endstop is polulated and e0 is for filament runout If I remember correctly, switch I want to use is NC. I thought I need to assign e1 endstop to z max but I found no hint in wiki.

dc42

What do you want your Z Max endstop to do when it is triggered? if you want it to carry out an emergency stop, you can do that by connecting it to the E1 endstop connector and using the M581 command to assign a trigger action to it,