Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
not farted around with PID tune or anything (and won't).
But you should. It's quite easy as well. Stable temps, quick heat up, and no overshoot.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s161@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
BTW, is there thermal runaway control in config.g?
Yes the firmware has thermal runaway protection. You can't alter it's behaviour much for safety sake, but You can set the max temp for heaters using M143. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M143_Maximum_heater_temperature
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Spurious_heater_faults_and_how_to_avoid_them
@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Have Cura 4
There is a Cura plugin that allows for uploading directly to the Duet. Save a step of going to the web control to do it. Very handy.
Also be sure to set RepRap Gcode flavour and check over the slicer start gcode. Some of the Cura default printers include some gcode to set max speed values that can limit your speeds versus what you have set in config.g
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Very happy to share a vimeo of an early test print. Tech and print info on video description:
Thanks for all your help so far.
R
That is a very very tall printer!
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Yep! Very useful and a descriptive name: @Fusedeep (Fused deposition and deep fusing!)
It is also dry lube and wheeled so it can go through single doorways and be easily moved into non clean environments. The engineering is also very simple and rugged and or easily repaired.
The use of the IGUS gantry was the main reason for the dry lube approach, then as that became problematic the openbeam Delrin wheel gantry seems to be better all round for this application (OOZNEST).
Designed to print VASE prints primarily, then have composite/resin reinforcement added to the print, it acting as a former or positive mold. Also for printing my speaker prototypes and sculpture pieces such as the cellular bowl in my profile. More info on my www.Son.im homepage...
Working great and look forward to tidying it up and adding a kill switch etc!
R
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@Phaedrux Yes, Cura looks interesting (I looked at it years a back and friends often wax lyrical), I tried it very recently and it sped my gantry all the way across my bed and into the far side (even after setting my machine up in it). Kill switch anyone!?
Need to look at it carefully but keen to try wire printing and wobbly finish etc and graduated layer and infill looks very useful. lot's useful options and as you say the plug ins look great!
Looking forward to developing @FuseDeep and associated software tool chain.
Very happy it is finally printing great!
R
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@Phaedrux I do PID, or did a lot in Marlin, but as I say, just a bit reserved with code currently. losing 2.5 yrs fine tuning on Marlin this summer has burned a bit!
But will PID at some point. Frankly, it works great currently so not in a big rush. My new 6 fan cooling rig has transformed the print quality. It was when attempting to PID my Volcano with the new 6 fan rig that exposed the lost marlin file....was heartbreaking. move on Rich...
I only get a 3 degree dip and fast recover when all 6 fans come on (not pwm controlled so on or off currently), the fan head shroud is crucial in keeping the extra air off the silicone E3D sock on the heater block (highly recommend this add on). works a treat. Will make a better version that is also the throat fan break clip at some point. images to follow...
Thanks again. R
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I assume just cutting the power won't hurt it? I think DUET has a salvage option too so perhaps the simplest way all round?
This looks like it, will read and apply:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_to_resume_a_print_after_a_power_failure
R
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@FuseDeep Cutting the power won't do any harm at all. I always turn my printer off when not in use by cutting the power.
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@deckingman Thanks, I meant more mid print rather than when everything is cool and static. But it would seem to be the most fail safe option.
Time to put in a big red button!
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@FuseDeep Yes, it's safer because if a Mosfet failed in a state which left the heater on, cutting power will cut of the heater too. Just be aware that if you do have to resort to using it when the hot end is heated, then you'll likely get a blockage in the heat sink as filament melts where it shouldn't and then solidifies (but you probably know all that).
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Thanks, good point though. In the old days the extruder throat fan was on a permanent 24v/12v feed so never off. May just do that. simplest and zero problems.
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Some terrific results in testing:
This table leg a vase print at 2h26mins
0.8mm nozzle
0.4mm layer height
45mm/sFairly sedate but reliable and very tidy. This print even had a reel change half way through! love that option. A very useful size and speed printer. Handles complex/non vase prints great too.
VIMEO Video
To Do:
Lose long file name nag (not acted on above advice yet)
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Set up full power off restart, resurrect?
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Finalise retract/extruder settings for even better results, especially when travelling between print parts across large bed
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Big red kill switch, in stock and awaiting install.
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make/tidy board, cable and wire runs/mounts
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There is one slight issue, using 2 steppers on one axis works brilliantly, and obviously when powered they are locked electronically in alignment. However sometimes they are unpowered and I sort the filament etc and move the gantry and they, naturally go off alignment...any way to prevent this other than a rodded join? or one stepper and a rod link (like the 2 stepper set up. works very well...just asking.R
PS. I added spring loaded hinged mounts to the print bed corner guide wheels (as the alloy openbeam eqv. has some variation in it). This has transformed bed travel stability and print quality even further, as the original fixed wheels could leave the vertical corner and the bed oscillate laterally!
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Question:
Why do the 3 job print times shown on the screen not match up, and which is useful?
File/Filament/Layer
?
Thanks R
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@FuseDeep said in Hello, am new here but not a newbie as such.:
Question:
Why do the 3 job print times shown on the screen not match up, and which is useful?
File/Filament/Layer
?
Thanks R
There are many ways to estimate something like completion time. The duet uses a few different metrics to estimate when the print may finish. It will be up to you to assess which one is more accurate based on the model being printed.
File time uses the remaining amount of gcode file to be executed. This would be similar to what other firmwares present. If the Gcode file is 100kb and you've executed 50kb worth of commands and there is 50kb left, you're at 50%. This doesn't take into account that some gcode commands take longer to execute than others. If there are many long straight moves, this may underestimate the amount of time left.
The filament estimate uses the length of filament used in total by the print job, and tells you how much you've used up to this point. If the extrusion rate of the job is fairly consistent this estimate may be most correct.
The layer time estimate uses the average layer time and the number of layers remaining to give an estimate. This may be most accurate for things like vases or tall print jobs that have a consistent layer time.
After the first few layers the estimates should start to converge.
DWC2 also shows the slicer estimated time remaining if your slicer supports adding it's own estimate. Personally I find Curas' estimate to be within a few minutes of actual print time.
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Thanks @Phaedrux , a useful roundup.
I think simplify3D is fairly accurate, but tend to forget to check, being busy on other things during a big print. But will endeavour to.
Have not yet tried replacing the long name file offline, not keen on that ut will try it. Seems to be a bug but will see what happens. Adhoc wifi working great though!
I did delete the normal wifi config trigger entry and realised a semi colon prior would have excluded it.
One definite thing I would like to set up is (via a micro switch) filament end of reel then go to pause state with extruder heat off. Assuming resume will wait to restart the heater?
This thread seems to get very complex...(too complex, is there a simple option?)
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/4952/inputs-for-a-simple-switch-filament-sensor/16
(EDIT) Plus I would really like filament out to trigger a wav file and yellow flashing klaxon A La Alien/s...I might use an adafruit express to do that bit...)
BTW, Whenever I google (almost anything), almost regardless of google result and which forum ,your answer always seems best. Thanks for your general efforts.
R
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M591 configured as a simple switch should do what you need.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_filament-out_sensors
The pause and resume macros are also configurable to do what you wish.
See the recent discussion here: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13972/filament-out-sequence-of-actions
