@Phaedrux Thank you for citing the docs to me. No irony here. I absolutely overlooked that the value for the H parameter is in stepper steps and not in mm/s. 🤦

Thus there is no problem and my value is way less off than i thought.

I consider this problem solved now.

@noobydp
I got theses ones: aliexpress
They matched the original sigma nema 14 steppers the closest. The manufacturer stepperonline is reputable and also has its own webshop. Depending on where you life and how much time you want to wait on your steppers the webshop ist the better place to order from.

@Proschi78 said in IDEX Setup Macro Issues:

@sebkritikel I think the H2 command is to be used to move axes that are not homed.

Correct, it's normally used only in homing files and for testing purposes.

@moth4017
It didn't show a difference for my recent prints, both have quite nice first layer. However those are small prints at the center of the bed. My printer is a small one the bed is 230x150, and seems pretty flat from height map, I had been watching but never found any movement of Z when it prints first layer with height map enabled.
Actually for most prints the first layer is good enough, the difference is fine vs perfect only for large print. I guess the inconsistent comes from the whole system. I see videos of the Bambulab printer does pretty long calibration for every print, and it vibrates a lot when calibrating. Maybe that vibration not only helps input shaping but also help the whole mechanical system to settle down to the same state.
Thank you for the input! And btw, the spamming system of this forum stops me from posting or replying or editing twice in the same day, I have to wait a day or two to reply....

@tristanryerparke this isn't supported yet but I will add it to the wish list.

I expect to increase the maximum step speed of the EXP1HCL in a future firmware release, and I hope to make it quieter too.

@jay_s_uk Great tip, thank you. i will look into that.

Both that wiki and the GCode Dictionary explains thing with the term "Z leadscrews" which is correct in some hardware configurations. But it fooled me, maybe reading too quickly and not fully comprehending tings.

I propose a change to the use of "pivot point" or equivalent to make things a bit less likely to misunderstand.

@Anglu said in Temperature Difference of around 25 deg C:

Unfortunately, I have noticed that my printer is printing around 25 degrees C hotter than it should be.

How have you determined that? What filament did you use for your test print, and what temperatures did you select?

You can check the accuracy of the Duet temperature measurement by connecting a fixed resistor in place of the thermistor. It's possible to identify and correct for ADC errors in this way. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_thermistors_PT1000#manual-calibration. However, any ADC error should be much less than 25C.

@o_lampe
Perhaps it's time to start another hobby....

The idea of using an Arduino with a hall sensor sounds like fun, and I've seen an Arduino kit on Amazon which seems to fit the bill (except for the hall sensor, which is cheap enough), but I wonder if this would be more accurate than a laser measuring the reflection from reflective tape stuck to the spindle's collet nut - which is the method I currently use?

Of course, I'd need to learn how to program an Arduino!

@Phaedrux
I think what I'm looking for is a short macro (ZAdjustDown.g) which I could run from the command line, that will adjust the existing Z work zero by -0.1mm.

When the surfacing process is complete, the tool returns to Work coordinates X0, Y0, Z+5, but I would like the macro to change the actual Z starting point (without moving the spindle down) by -0.1mm, so that when I repeat the project, the spindle is moved down to the new start point and starts cutting from there.

I intend to assign the macro to a button on my jog controller, so I won't be necessary to enter it in the command line.

Thanks

@jens55
Often we are the worst person to review anything we ourselves did/wrote because we see what we "think" it should be and not what it is.

@jens55 thanks!

@RogerPodacter said in Dual Markforged Kinematics Setup:

M669 K1 X1:0:0:0 Y1👎0:1 Z0:0:1:0 U0:0:0:1; Matrix mapping for Axis - X:Y:Z:U

i solved my issue. maybe this helps someone in the future. i simply changed the Y matrix:

old

M669 K1 X1:0:0:0 Y1:-1:0:1 Z0:0:1:0 U0:0:0:1; Matrix mapping for Axis - X:Y:Z:U

new

M669 K1 X1:0:0:0 Y1:-1:0:-1 Z0:0:1:0 U0:0:0:1; Matrix mapping for Axis - X:Y:Z:U

@PCR unless you are running at 10,000mm/s^2 acceleration in z then I think gravity should still win right? Unless there is an awful lot of 'stiction' in the z bearings.

If it is from Z hop, surely you are always approaching the axis from the same direction (downwards), so backlash shouldn't be an issue? Or am I being naive and missing something...?

@Pascal-0 I've got the same build surface on my Ender 3 Pro and it works great. It looks like your bed is just misaligned, so try to level your bed. I haven't changed mine to CoreXZ, though.

@Havoc340 you could also use a small, simple tool like this to help you calibrate next time: https://www.emberprototypes.com/products/cxc

Give this a look for tuning your extrusion system to match speed. The key thing to know is the volumetric flow rate of your hotend. If you can maximize that with a combination of extrusion width, layer height, and print speed, the rest will follow easier. You may not need to move as fast if you're extruding more.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14250/tuning-jerk-accel-speed-settings?_=1671825688469

@gnydick said in Input Shaping seems to break on different length moves:

@dc42 does it make sense to look at it as a whole first?

That's what we'll be doing in future, in order to detect when the top speed needs to be reduced in order to accommodate input shaping.

@dc42
Very nice. thanks
Please tell us when it's uploaded. I'm waiting for it since the very first hour of the 1hcl 😄