Worked like a charm, thanks. Also turning off the fans during warmup helped a lot. >.> Forgot to disable them during heating.

Ah, thanks. I didn't assemble it, it was a ready-to-print purchase.

I try again 😄

Do you have only use your clearpath how a normal nema 17? Or you have must to do a modify the firmware?

I do not recommend putting a Duet onto the internet. It is best to keep it on your internal network. If you need to access it remotely I recommend you use a VPN, or connect remotely to a PC on the network.

this is an abolute offset right?

my offset seem to be scaling with the size of the printed object, so I dont think this is the right solution.

maybe this helps.. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dmRbzW0ga1oKkvR33TSz4iv_SgwE46os

Thanks Dino. That was helpful.
I think I've got some carriage trouble or my z probe is shit. My g30 command is returning values all over the place.

I'm going to try tightening up the carriages then replacing the z probe.

This is a common issue with holes in 3D prints. Selecting "External perimeters first" or "Outside-in" in the slicer helps; but you will probably have to specify the hole as being slightly larger than you actually want it.

You only need to add the network using M587 once, it does not need to be in your config.g

You can send M587 from the console to confirm that your network is added correctly ( I think it is as you are getting a DHCP address). Check the network is not in their twice once without an IP address, also probably worth having a netmask in there as well.

On reset the Duet should use the configured IP.

In that case I think your bltouch is mis-triggering. The latest 1.21RC2 firmware may help.

Okey, i will try:)

So, when e0 is centered, you move it x14, - 12 to be at the z probe, correct?

Cause I have mine set from the build zero, and I have a tool offset.
When I select the tool, the probe offset is exactly the tool offset incorrect.
If I select e1 (t1) which also is offset, it's incorrect by that amount.

It doesn't matter if the table has a slope. What does matter is if the bed is not at right angles to the towers. RepRapFirmware can compensate for a few degrees of this type of bed tilt.

Thanks. I think ultimately the issue was related to my nozzle being damaged/worn. I replaced it with a micro-swiss hardened steel and also dialed up the grip in the extruder. Between the two, that resolved the problem.

Thanks

Pid matters more the more powerful the heater relative to its area, so for a pcb heater 200x200 running on 12v drawing 9A the bed will struggle to get to temperatureand it will heat up slowly, bang bang is fine. If you have a much more powerful heater then bang bang would cause big oscillations at the set temperature.

Delta printer, Boots Industries BIv25.
glass is round, at the 3 mounts, I leveled the bed against a zero'd extruder to .01mm
Z probe is a piezo inside a mechanical probe. probe gets pulled out by magnet and pushed in by a retractor.

Bed has a 1mm "dip" or curve towards the center (slightly concaved) from the edges.

But I just did a 10mm print and its pretty close. I was very concerned that the extruder was going to try to drive into the bed at the edges.

Thanks, you are right here about the 1/16th. I tried to replicate my settings from ramps. I will probably try this out without the hot end and see how it will work.

I have lowered the fan duct even more and put a silicone sock over the heater block. Now I at least do not get errors any more.
Seems to be ok now.

@dc42:

In the next firmware release candidate, I'll allow M671 to be used with a single pair of XY coordinates. That will have the effect of clearing the M671 settings. Meanwhile, have you considered using 4-point mesh probing instead of 3-point probing?

Thanks! And no I had not thought of the mesh probing, that will work for now.
Cheers 🙂
Rob.

The usual way to cancel a print is to press the Pause button in DWC or on PanelDue, then the Cancel button. When you do that, macro file sys/cancel.g is run, if it exists.

The problem is that 0 is an invalid (and unfeasible) dead time. Try tuning the heater again to see if you get a nonzero value, in case reading noise caused the problem. If you get zero again, then I suggest you estimate the dead time by turning the heater on and timing how long it takes before the temperature starts rising; then use that (in seconds) as the D parameter in the M307 command, along with the A=66.8 and C=518.4.