@my67nova:

Dommy I could be wrong but I have the exact same setup and had same issue. I zoomed in on your photo and if you take out the sd card cable and look underneath you might see 2 pins, compared to mine yours appears to be offset by 2 pins. I thought I was wrong before but I was mistaken…... 🙂

Paul

Hy Paul,
Thank you very much.
After your post I made a double check and I have discovered that you are right.
My fault was also for another reason, unfortunately one of the channel is broken…... and than my tests was falsify.
Any way, now I have at least one channel that work well.
Thank you again Paul, and thank you to all....
Dommy

I couldn't get PrintBite to works either but I did manage to remove it from the glass. What I did was to pry up a little corner with a small flat blade screwdriver then poor Acetone into the crack. The Acetone partially dissolved the adhesive. Then wait a few seconds, pry a bit more, and pour more Acetone into the crack and repeat the process. It's really messy and I used a lot of Acetone. In my case, I managed to salvage the glass but the PrintBite was also intact (before I though it in the bin).

Thanks

Endstop switches are driven at 3.3V or 5V. The endstop connectors provide 3.3V on the centre pin. You may need to reduce the value of one of the resistors (the IR LED series resistor) on the optical endstop to get it to work reliably at 3.3V.

@j1999t:

I am in the US, and i sent W3DRK a message about a week ago with no response…

Hmm I never received a PM notification from the Forum system. A friend just referred me to this post.

This repair would be a piece of cake. Try sending me another PM and we can work out the details.

Thanks!

W3DRK

@elmoret:

1.) Yes, though it might possibly need a load on the 5v rail to hold steads 12v.
2.) Yes
3.) As many will fit in the provided ferrule.
4.) Use the ground wire. -12v is 12 volts below ground reference. If you used +12v and -12v you'd get 24v, but -12v is only rated for 0.3A.
5.) If you want to, sure. I'd probably coil them up next ot the power supply with heatshrink on the ends.

Thanks for the info…..I connected the PS sense line to the lead it was coupled with in the ATX connector.

Exactly there info I was looking for...Thanks

Also during the press release of Project Escher they stated that they are not intending to develop hardware solutions. They are only interested in developing the software side and as seen the solution is so far only being used by closed sourced commercial printer companies such as Titan.

The Duet can do this better in my opinion and make it more accessible to the masses. I wish I had the skills you have because i would be all over developing such a solution. But the best I can hope for is that I can help with testing the Duet.

Think I solved it! There must be some bug in Chrishamm´s files because after downgrading to David´s files it all worked. From chrishamm´s RepRapFirmware Version 1.19-b6 to David´s Version 1.18.1 and DWC, chrishamm´s Version 1.16 to David´s Version 1.15c. No other changes where done…

Please switch to 1.19beta1 and try again. See https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=1620 for upgrade instructions.

please do if your taking requests id also like to see a video on ir probe install and set up as your right ups are very technical and a show and tell would help us mortals keep up with you are have a better understanding of it

yup, all 5 crimped onto the insulation instead of bare wire, by the supplier.

Brilliant, thanks!

If PanelDue is showing a black screen, either there is a hardware fault (most likely a blown backlight inverter on the panel) or you have erased the firmware.

You can check whether the PanelDue controller is commanding the backlight on by measuring the voltage on the LED_A pin of the TFT panel. It should be +3.3V for full on, and 0V for off.

If you have erased the PanelDue firmware, then if you connect its USB port to a PC you should see the "Bossa Port" in the Ports section of Windows Device Manager (others can translate that to what you see under Linux or OSX).

HTH David

Found the solution!
i hade tighten the thermistor screw to tight
losen it a bit and it reads normal

1+ from me, too
I already wished for it here: https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=890

U axis is hard wired to E0 endstop input, and V axis to E1.

my board is powered by 12v

that is what we first tried, but with no luck, which is why we tried E2Stop

have sorted it now in the homez file

Nice job!

If the PanelDue shut down as well as the Duet, that points to either loss of VIN power to the Duet (so check that the terminal block screws are tight), or a short from 5V to ground.