@hussainsail2002 said in Strange Ringing artifacts on coreXY:

Has anyone managed to solve this issue ?.

Am running into the same issue with an e3d styled corexy gantry with the belts crossing over at the back.

Thanks !
Hussain!

Did this happen to a gantry using linear rails? Cause this was a possible solution I wanted to try next...

@T3P3Tony You rock !
@dc42 You rock to 🙂 (I didn't read well your answer)

Thanks

@juice said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

Consider calibrating the printer without using the probe just to get you up and running, It only takes five minutes. It will eliminate any probe inconsistencies and you can always come back to the probe later to tweak that last bit of accuracy.

Agreed! If you set you config.g so that there is NOT a probe configured, when you run the probe command, pop-ups will occur on the web interface that will guide you through "paper probing". This will get you going... 🙂

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer#Section_Commissioning. It's also a good idea to reduce the motor currents during testing, to minimise damage if you get a head crash.

On a delta the homing switches are fitted at the top of each tower.

Check that the print cooling fan is connected the right way round. The problem could also be a bad crimp connection.

Yes. The left tower motor should be X, the right tower motor should be Y, and the back tower motor should be Z. Same for the homing switches (endstops).

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareDeltaPrinter and https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer.

It's possible to use step pins on other ports, but more complicated and with a small loss of maximum step speed. Look at how it's done for the older Duets and for RADDS in those 3 functions at the end of Platform.h.

When you say that you can "start the wifi module manually", do you mean that sending M552 S1 from USB or PanelDue will start it, but using M552 S1 in config.g doesn't work? Or something else?

Thanks, please see https://www.duet3d.com/warranty to make a warranty claim.

@obeliks said in Cant home z to endstop:

@scottpickstock Haha, please don't.

Don't worry, I couldn't home my z axis, I have no hope of homing in on you haha. cheers again.

Have you seen https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches#Section_3_3V_compatible_optical_endstop ?

Optical endstops have active high outputs, so configuring them for a delta printer is the same as for configuring normally-closed microswitches.

Thanks all, decision made (if it wasn't already).

I had hoped the drivers would reset to some default state that was usable, but your reply confirmed that this is most likely not the case. Thanks for your reply!

hugh thanks to all of you!!!

@elmoret said in Acces DuetWifi from the internet?:

You could forward a port on your router, but be advised that setting things up incorrectly could yield security issues.

Will look into this!
Thanks for the warning 😉

The inductance will be 4 times higher in bipolar mode. The rated current will be a little lower, perhaps 71% of the rated current in unipolar mode, perhaps a !ittle higher.

ah... that would have been my mistake. I thought I had a later fw than I did. that seems to have fixed it.

@wilriker said in Largest wire dimension to fit into Duet's Molex KK crimp pins?:

Do I get your method right that you do two crimping operations on each pair of wings by once crimping them towards their end that will go into the connector and once towards the end going to insulation? If not, how are you doing these two steps (per pair of wings) then?

I do use a PA-20.

I crimp the wings that will grip the bare wire once, fairly gently, in the 2.2 slot, and the same wings again, firmly, in the 1.9 slot. This seems to give the best results on the connectors included with the duet. The insulation wings may get 2.5/2.2 or 2.2/1.9, depending on the insulation. Four operations total.

For "radio control" connectors, which are smaller, the final crimp of the wire wings occurs in the 1.6 slot.

I understand what you are saying about the "thickness" of a PA20 vs. the "longways" dimension of the wings, and that it is easy to have a little "hanging out" of one side or the other of the crimper. However, if done carefully, the entire longways/thickness happens in each operation. I find that even with magnifying glasses, I can't get this right entirely by eye... a fingernail really sets the final depth alignment.

I had originally started down the road of connectorizing, tried several different styles, then gave up. Motors don't go bad so often that connectorizing is worth the effort. I left the motor tails long and just went with butt splices. Lightly twist the black/green wires together and the red/blue wires together to help reduce EMI.

In an effort to eliminate my EMI induced false endstop triggers, I've also dumped my 18ga parallel conductors in favor of 22ga shielded twisted pair for both the motors and endstops. Black/green motor wires on one pair and red/blue on another.

Oh yeah...also a lot less bulky at the Duet2 since I've got 8 motors. 🙂

Yes, they are.

I have replaced processors before, but as you are in India the carriage costs would be high. So it's best if you can find someone local who can change the processor. Perhaps a university or a hackspace/makerspace can do it for you. Or you could try searching for "SMD rework services" or "SMD repair services" in India.

@knaudler if your brake can be triggered by the duet you could modify the commands to run on power loss to trigger it.