What photo would you like to see? Marlin 2 with & without s-curve or smoothieware vs marlin 2? I'm a bit busy this week but I can set up the firmware and make something during my lunch breaks.
Best posts made by warbunnies
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RE: S-curve in marlin 2: seems like a huge quality improvement.
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RE: S-curve in marlin 2: seems like a huge quality improvement.
I'll do my best. I've only done video editing once and only have my phone... so I'll probably stick to pictures. But I got the firmware baked at work today so I should be able to make some simple calibration cubes after work. I upped my acceleration to 3000 so it should force the ringing to be more visible. I'm not sure I'll have time to check print times but will definitely try.
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RE: S-curve in marlin 2: seems like a huge quality improvement.
Okay I'm doing more testing but I am honestly a bit confused with my initial results...
With an acceleration of 3000:
Turning on the S-curve feature does not seem to do anything. Anything!
The prints are so similar that the camera on my phone cannot pick up any difference & asking friends to blindly rate has produced indeterminate results.Even more perplexing is that both prints took almost exactly the same amount of time. The s-curve was faster by 5 ish seconds over a 1hr50ish min print. If anything I would have assumed it would have been slower because the acceleration is not constant...
They also produced the same amount of noise.
My conclusion is the the marlin firmware (with or without s-curve) is just better than smoothieware. 1400mm/s use to be a hard cap for my printer but the 7000mm/s acceleration im testing now suggests I can tune my printer much higher. I'll let you know if the 7000mm/s produces artifacts worth taking pictures of. I may also try increasing the jerk value to see if it has any effect.
Also my small delta may be a poor candidate to test these features. The effector is less than 100g total & its a relatively small machine 260mm D x 361mm H & overkill structure so there's just nowhere near enough weight moving around to tell if the s-curve is helping. If it was easy to do/ i had more free time, I would stick it on my large delta 325mm D x 680mm H with the added weight of a flying extruder and see if the s-curve helped. If anyone has a heavy effector and some free time, I'd love to see if it does anything.
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RE: S-curve in marlin 2: seems like a huge quality improvement.
I actually think I found the issue. The name was recently changed from #define BEZIER_CURVE_SUPPORT to #define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION
& whoever did that missed 1 part of the code that still used #define BEZIER_CURVE_SUPPORT
That's what you get for beta testing. I'm trying the firmware with both defined and should actually be using the s-curve feature.
Latest posts made by warbunnies
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RE: Vivedino Troodon Control Board question
@dc42 Thanks! I'll read more into that but it certainly does look like it. Would explain why the low voltage is getting no power.
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RE: Vivedino Troodon Control Board question
I'm definitely going through the process of getting a new board from them BUT the main issue there is international shipping, there are crazy delays right now. I'm asking if they can do any sorta overnight shipping but my guess it that it will probably take a while and running the prototyping shop on one printer is going to be rough.
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Vivedino Troodon Control Board question
Never rush things right? Sigh... Well I rushed things and mixed up the wires going to a new extruder I was installing on a troodon. When I turned it on after installing the extruder, it did not turn on. I'm only getting the blue vin light on the control board.
I tried replacing the fuses, nothing changed. And I've moved on to looking for damage on the board. The only thing I can find is this one chip looked burnt/melted, I cleaned it off with alcohol to read the numbers but I cannot seem to find it through google.
The numbers I can read are:
03T
1937
050LDoes anyone know what this is & do you think replacing it might fix the issue? I'm gonna order another board but with global shipping in the toilet... I was kinda hoping to try some fixes in the mean time.
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RE: Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
@Veti okay the ssh instructions seem clear enough. i should be fine pulling that off.
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RE: Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
@Veti honestly cause that seemed like it was the suggested way of doing it... the instructions as i understood them made standalone sound like a dated alternative.
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RE: Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
@Veti Will do.... as soon as i figure out how. I've never actually used a pi before and I don't really understand how to send the "sudo apt update
sudo apt upgrade" commands. is there a way to initiate that from the duet ui or do i have to find a way to plug in the pi to a screen and keyboard? -
RE: Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
@Veti I'll look into the thermistors... they are performing great though and not really an issue... if i was printing anything but pla on this machine for work it'd probably be more critical.
the firmware is: RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC 3.01-RC9 (2020-04-21b1)
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RE: Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
thanks... hows that work? do i upload the file then put it in like this: "<download link>" or do i copy past the text in "<text>"?
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Second Layer Off & Offsets Question
So I've had a few interesting troubles getting my idex going with the duet 3.
The first is that my offsets only seem to allow for a negative offset and not a positive one. No error happens when I start a print with a positive offset on an axis, but it pretends like they don't exist. I've managed to make it work but it is a bit of a pain and I wonder why that would be?
The second problem is that my second layer height is printing too high above the print bed. I kind of wonder if it is related to my babystepping or if it is related to my z offset.
The third problem is that if I pause and then restart a print, the z height seems to change. not by a lot... probably less than .5mm but it definitely does change. and happens every time I pause then start the print again on the first layer.