@Proschi78 said in Two Duet 3 Mini 5+ and two toolboards over CAN:

I think I have understood it now?! I go from my first Duet 5 to the first toolboard, then CAN L and H are simultaneously also the output to the 2nd toolboard. From the 2nd toolboard the same then to the endboard Duet 5.

That's correct.

@3DPotter it looks to me that the amplifier you are using has an output slew rate too low to handle the higher frequencies well.

@nick9one1 said in Heater 1 fault: failed to read sensor: badVssa:

I wonder if that pin became dry when it overheated,

Unlikely. It's clear that the solder never wetted that part of the pad that is exposed. OTOH it cold be that the bad soldering caused the mosfet to fail.

@qurt If you are running long cables in an industrial environment you should be taking appropriate precautions with shielding. That applies to the CAN cables but also to cables such as temperature sensors etc. Once advantage of running CAN to areas like the tool head, over running the motor drivers, heater cables and temperature sensors, is there is less wiring exposed to interference (or generating interference) over long distances.

thanks that was it!

now i just wonder why the firmware got erased

@Shoki In that case it sounds like the 1XD is faulty, so let's exchange it. Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

@lazy_mosquito they provide only PWM output. To use a 3-wire fan at less than full speed and have the tacho outputting correctly, you would need to add a circuit to switch the positive wire instead of the negative wire, and for some fans change the PWM to variable voltage too. It's much simpler to use 4-wire fans, which are designed for PWM control. All Duet 3 main boards provide some ports that support 4-pin fans..

Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

3.5 final has released now, there has been a lot of fixes since rc1. Can you please update using the full release zip file?

https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/3.5.0

@Arminas said in How to properly ground hotend?:

so which option is better - hotend or extruder stepper?

It depends. Ideally, both if there's no conductivity between the motor and the hot end. If you have something like a E3D Hemera, where all the metal parts touch both the hot end and motor, you can probably ground just one. At worst, ground the hot end, as it's ESD building up in the metal parts of the hot end, then sparking between that and the temperature sensor wiring that is a particular problem for the controller board. Less so if the ESD short to the heater wiring, I would have thought.

Would it additionally help if I would print hotend parts in ABS ESD?

Possibly, I don't have any experience with that. If it doesn't have a high capacitance, has low resistance, and makes good contact with the hot end and/or motor, I'd guess it might help. But unless it has a good connection to ground (perhaps through the mounting and frame), it probably still needs a grounding wire.

Ian

@droftarts thanks for your helping!

@jay_s_uk ok thanks

@Phaedrux thanks

@oliof Thank you, this is exactly what I am after.

Kind regards,

Gordon

@GillesDB I'm glad you got it working.

@droftarts Lol . irk , thanks Ian , you're a superstar🌠

@droftarts Thanks Ian, this is really good information - I'll make sure to add that to my reading list.

@Phaedrux said in Duet2 WiFi shuts down spontaneously during printing job:

Or set the Z position manually.

Yes, but: which are the coordinates saved at time of power outage?

@jbeck if they are standard microswitches with both NO and NC contacts, we recommend you use the NC contacts for greater immunity to interference.