@printoverse If you recently flashed DuetPi (the image running on the Raspberry), you could use the bossa program from the start menu to flash your Duet 3. In case you have a spare microSD card, you can flash it to that one from here (7 Jul 2021) and restore the firmware that way. When bossa asks you for the firmware files, look in /opt/dsf/sd/firmware.

Also make sure the erase jumper is no longer on the board before you connect everything.

@dc42

Thanks - thats good to know. problem resolved and board working very well!!

@heinrich-platau I had also this message after the first tuning. Try to run the tuning again.

@dc42 Thanks to both of you guys, you are a real source of knwoledge! I'm learning a lot of things and, I have to be honest, I'm having a lot of fun making mods to my printer using this amazing board! If I think of all the time I've wasted in the past using marlin-based boards.....well, Duet is another world!

@pickett
Well, not really, but after tuning steps/mm on all motors the issue suddenly disapeared. Also i checked and rang all wires

@hesus29 said in Duet 2 wifi Z-probe and Z ednstop min at the same time:

@fcwilt So yea i upgraded to 3.3 firmware today. I will remove m574 z1 s2 command. But can i use while homing z-probe and for safety endstop at the same time? should i make some g-code changes in home command?

Hi,

I always equip my printers with Z endstops and Z probes.

I always home with the Z endstop. It is quicker and simpler than using the Z probe. And since you can home Z first you don't need to have any Z moves in the X and Y homing if you don't want to.

I use the Z probe for:

setting the Z=0 datum leveling the bed creating the mech compensation height map

@dc42 Thanks for the explanation. I was suggesting that @Gabriel implements this for his peculiar use case. I agree it is not really necessary for most of us.

@valentina To expand on what @jay_s_uk has said and IIRC, by default all the drivers on expansion boards (Duex) are labelled as En. So if you have Duex5, the drivers are labelled E2 to E6. But they are referred to by their driver number. The first 5 on the main board are drivers 0 to 4 and by default these are X,Y,Z E1 and E2. The drivers on expansion boards are thus drivers 5 and 6 (Duex2) and drivers 5 to 9 (Duex 5). But as I said, they are labelled E"something" (at least they used to be when I had a Duex5).

So if you want to use (say) the first driver on the expansion board for another Z motor, then you would map it using M584 something like Z2:5 which would use drivers 2 and 5. The physical labels will likely be "Z" on the main board and "E2" on the expansion board.

@dc42 the max. RPM of the blower is 39500 RPM. I am running the blower at half power, so I recon the RPM are around 15.000. While running the blower at the lowest possible speed, I do not get a reading as well. According to the data sheet, the tachometer output has 3 pulses per revolution. So for 15,000 RPM this should be 750 Hz?

Tachometer output.PNG

@aronmeszaros shorting one of the step or direction outputs to 24V would certainly blow the MCU because there is no protection on those outputs.

@phaedrux thanks for this. That's alright if I loose some functionality as long as I can get it to work. The board is almost new not really used and don't have money to just throw it away and buy a new one. I did just get the duet 3 but in using that in another build.

@zapta Digital resistor is a very good idea, it gave me an inspiration, thank you

@phaedrux thank you it worked

@nick9one1 yes that's correct. The tool board is designed to tolerate that connection. Both OUT1 and OUT2 will get VIN voltage.

@benecito I used a 0.01uf ceramic cap between gnd and signal and a 4.7k resistor between signal and 3.3v. Watch your cap size though, too big and it will damage the switch over time and also delay the triggering which could be a problem for Z. Ive followed @dc42 's advice to wire all my triggers to N/C, but like you, I have one trigger that is just too much of a pain to replace the switch to gain a N/C contact. So I wired it like this (sorry for the finger painting):
IMG_6789.jpg
You can crip the resistor right at the Duet board connector like so and slide shrink tube over the wire and resistor:
dont follow the pinout, this is an old photo with the cap.
IMG_6790.jpg

@dc42 great, thank you!

@dc42 understood, thank you for clarifying.

Can you shed a little more light onto why 4.7K resistors aren't ideal for reading PT1000 sensors? Or point me in the right direction toward a good resource that might explain it in more depth?

@jay_s_uk ok makes sense, thanks!

@jbarros 2A RMS is the theoretical limit of the TMC2209, unachievable in practice except for very short periods or using cooling methods that are not practical. It is unfortunately very common for power semiconductors to have current or power ratings that are way higher than can be achieved in practice.

Section 20.1 of the datasheet makes it clear that the 2.8A rating is possible for intermittent use only (1 second on and one second standby). It suggests 1.4A RMS as a design guideline.

However, the Duet 3 Mini provides a much greater heatsinking area than plug-in drivers do, so you can more easily keep the drivers cool, using a fan that blows cool air along the line of drivers on both sides of the PCB.

@dc42 said in "custom" fan doesn't work:

@the_dragonlord both "pson" and "ps_on" should work.

it works like a charm!!!!

Thanks a lot! @dc42