Thanks for the information. Extrapolating (yea I know) the line it appears to fall inside but right at the edge of the area. I don't know if it will make any real world difference but I think I'm going to try the SS-01E which is a low force model.
Re Linear Rails
Yes, I have modified my Prusa to linear rails mounted on 3030 extrusion. It has made the printer bed far more stable. Improvement to print quality is minimal but there is a big improvement to repeat-ability. The only calibration I really need to do now on a regular basis, is to level the Z axis.
The original 8mm diameter rails and bearing arrangement is easy to build and probably just about adequate and cost effective for the loads involved but not good engineering practice IMO.
The linear rails do need precise alignment and setting up, but once done, the bed runs smoothly and stays in alignment.
For two aluminum 1/4 inch plates, I am getting a $450 price quote.
The tolerances quoted are not great.
As you can see I have staggered holes to accommodate different geometries.
The real kicker is that if you go up to 25 parts the price goes down from $200 each to $80-$100 each.
It would be great if this could be cost-shared in some way.
Thanks all for the opinions. I've got some work coming up using RAMPs. I was going to build a ramps system for myself at somepoint but need it faster so went for the complete budget system from Orballoprinting.
Interesting. I've been using automotive antiseize compound on everything that goes into the heater block and it seems to work OK. I think it is some sort of grease that's loaded with graphite powder because it's black and extremely messy to handle. Is the copper filled stuff any neater?
It's copper in colour but I suspect it has a fair bit of graphite in it because it makes your hands black if you do get it on them. It's about the same consistency as "Pritt Stick" though - almost solid - a bit like wax. The tube works the same way as Pritt Stick - you turn the base which pushes it out of the top. So I kind of wiped the cartridge with it which is easy to do without getting on your hands and it doesn't drip or anything like that. Definitely not as messy as grease.
Thanks for the pointer to the other thread. You're right, that is quite similar.
Luckily for me, my nimble extruder (love it!) has 2600 steps per mm, so the issue of no extrusion due to thin layers going below 1 step isn't affecting me, I think.
At this point, I'll just have to experiment to see what I can get.
In principle you can edit a copy of the GCode file you were printing, removing all the commands up to where the print stopped. Then you can preheat the bed and hot end, set the fact speed, home the printer as best you can so that is knows where the head is (you can use G92 to tell it the X height), and print that file.