@T3P3Tony:

Lean regarding having to redo the calibration each time - do you have something in config-override.g that could be throwing the calibration out (e.g M666 with the wrong parameters?)

I'll have to check but I'm 99% positive that I don't have a config-override. (Now that you mention it, I should go review the appropriate commands because that would be useful).

The first time I type the command, it just returns the M code. M665 returns M665. The second time returns the values I have stored in config.g. This isn't a huge deal and it seems that I'm the only one suffering from whatever this is.

Now working. Began working normally after I tried an autocalibration run even though it was starting at the wrong x,y coordinates. I let it run the first few probing points until it looked like it was about to go outside of the bed, I killed the power. On restart it is now homing properly.

I wonder if it was an aborted attempt at autocalibration earlier which I was trying to video to help people setup the piezo sensors, which changed/overwrote/corrupted some parameter somewhere (not config.g or config_override.g as these were normal) which caused the problem. Pretty strange - but fixed. Back to the filming.

Thank You David. I'll wait until the telnet support is back

@deckingman:

@kylesmth:

ok, I'm having an issue with printing smaller circles. The printer can keep up with everything else fine but when it tries to print the small circles it can make the motion quick enough and I'm getting a bad layer shift because it misses a few steps. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could improve that?

Well I guess the obvious answer is to slow it down for small circles. Slic3r has a setting called "Small perimeters" under "Print Settings" which is used for (I think) anything with a radius of <=6.5mm. If you are not using slic3r then your slicer probably has a similar setting somewhere. HTH

Edit. Purely out of curiosity, why has your printer got lead screws for X and Y? Was that a conscious decision and if so, what were the factors that determined the decision? Don't get me wrong, I'm not being critical. It's just an unusual set up so I am just curious.

Ian

thanks I'm using simplify 3d so I'll take a look for that setting. I just went with lead screws more as an experiment more than anything. I wanted to see if there was much of an improvement over the quality of belt drive, and so far i'm pretty happy with the results. Just still working on sorting out some small issues like this.

@dc42:

Older versions of DWC tend to report connection errors as password required. I suggest you upgrade to the latest versions of all 3 components.

I'll upgrade everything and see if that helps.

Thank for the speed comment. I will make them identical. Never gave it any thought,

I notice that I can print normally now, but I have to do a Home before I can print, otherwise the extruder starts misbehaving. This is not a real problem, but it seems to be new. I don't remember eve having this issue, but I am back at 1.15b so I must have just happen to miss it during that time.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

Yes, essentially after you home Z the machine will remain at the trigger height until it is told otherwise. When you run your gcode file, it sees the G1 Z0.2 command which will move it to Z=0.2 but then after that, it gets another home command which will leave it at the trigger height. It'll be easy to check - just use notepad++ or some such to delete the G28 or move it to before the G1 Z0.2 but of course, you'll need to sort out the start gcode that put it there in the first place. HTH
Ian

@DjDemonD:

This is what's put me off mixing hotends so far is the fear of being unable to remove a blockage from a nozzle and having a large chunk of scrap brass in the waste metal bin shortly afterwards. Is there a way to have a cheap, easily replaceable mixing nozzle?

No easily replaceable nozzle yet (or not one that I know of) - but I hold my hopes up. IMO the perfect mixing hot end has yet to be designed (but I'm working on it…...)

Having said that, the only time I've had issues with blockages has been caused by heat creep and a softening then hardening of the filament inside the heat sinks. Easily remedied by letting the hot end cool down properly before turning off the machine\fan (we live and learn). I am very careful with what goes into the hot end though, and I dare not try anything that might be abrasive in nature.

There is no REST API, but you can issue an rr_upload POST request to upload files. See https://github.com/chrishamm/DuetWebControl for further information.

Hi Steve

As I mentioned in the email it does appear that there is an issue with the SPI between the ESP and the MCU. You will need to contact who you bought the board from to arrange a replacement under warranty.

I'll second what Tony suggests about trying OpenScad. I'm a 63 year old with no cad experience of any sort and have managed to get to grips with it. Apart from anything else, once you've mastered a few basics (and there are plenty of on line tutorials and help available), it opens up a whole new world of what you can do with your printer. The time taken to master it will be rewarded by time saved in the future trying to find designs that suits your particular requirements. And of course it's free.

This firmware and hardware can work on so many different machines and a simple typo can make so much go wrong, that we have to have the config to even begin to diagnose anything. That being said, great job finding your problem before anyone else had a chance to 🙂

I do have a delta with a 0.8.5 board but it sits unused 6 months out of the year probably… I'm thinking of decomissioning it to salvage the motors for a CNC Router 🙂 and move the 0.8.5 to one of my other printers

Jeff,

It looks iike I posted this before carefully reading the documentation: "FAN1 is set up as a thermostatically-controlled fan by default. To use it as a normal controlled fan, you must first cancel thermostatic mode by sending M106 P1 H-1."

Thanks for the feedback,
Bob

Hi RikyRap, welcome to the Duet world.

The configuration tool that Doug mentioned is here: https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org. You can use that to generate your configuration file and homing files. Save the zip file that it generates, and upload it to the Duet on the Settings page of the web interface.

You do not need to rebuild or re-upload the firmware to make configuration changes.

@dc42:

@(In)Sanity:

One thing that bugs me is I can move the carriage in a negative X position to get the probe closer to the edge of the bed, however doing so just results in 0's on the map. I find that very irritating.

Do you have a M208 S1 X-### command in config.g to tell the firmware that the carriage can move left as far as X-### ? If you don't, it will assume that X=0 is the lower limit.

M208 did solve the problem, I can now get within 10mm of the left edge which is close enough. The rest of the build plate I can hit each corner.

Thanks again,

Jeff

ScotY search for babystepping:

https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=666#p6414
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=210#p1958

and the 1.18 provisional change list:
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=598#p5718

I got my new PT100 board. It corrected the problem.

The old board will be back to you guys to look at shortly.

Larry

thank u 😄 😄

I'm running Simplify3D and the times are really far off. I've learned to look at the printer times and ignore the slicer times. I've also learned to check the estimated finish time after a few layers have completed. Certainly nothing to fix at all here. I've found the printer to be close enough.

Jeff