Glad it worked! Unfortunately I forgot to give full credit to David for that solution.

I just noticed this was added to 1.20 beta 8, thank you David!

Cheers,
Ben.

I'll be back at my printer tomorrow and see what I can do.
I will report then.
thanks

Yes, BITMI are our newest OEM customer, based in Romania.

Thank you for the tool, David. It is very useful and confirmed my previous calculations were correct.

Can confirm, dc42.

also bare in mind that with these Silicon heaters the thermistor is usually on the underside of it and is below the bed itself so you will get a difference anyhow but you can adjust the B Value to get it closer to what you want but As Ian (Deckingman) has pointed out do you know your IR Thermometer is accurate I would use a multi meter with a Thermocouple probe that is in very close contact with the top of the glass

Thank you

Start gcode

G4 P2000 ;pause for paneldue M104 S130 ; set extruder temp G28 ;home M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ;heat bed G32 ;autocalibration - set grid on/off in bed.g M564 S0 ;disable movement limits G1 Z15 X47.7 Y-160.1 F3000 ;move to front M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp G1 E20 F100 ;extrude 20mm slowly G4 P1500 ;pause G1 Z4 X40 Y-168 F6000 ;move down to swipe filament off G1 Z2 X0 Y0 F6000 ;move to bed centre M564 S1 ;restore movement limits M220 S100 ;optional speed control default 100

Most of it is self-explanatory. What I do is after heating bed and extruder, autocalibrate as I want bed heated and nozzle semi-heated, then disable movement limits (caution doing this) to allow me to stick my nozzle just over the edge of the bed, heat to 1st layer temp, so any ooze doesn't fall on the bed, and extrude a little filament to prime, which falls on the floor next to the printer. This way I get "auto-start" I don't need to attend to the machine after starting a print. The speed control gcode is in case I want to print something very slowly like flexible, I can set this temporarily in slic3r.

End gcode

M220 S100 ; set speed back to 100% M104 S0 ; turn off nozzle temperature M140 S0 ; turn off bed temperature M141 S0 ; turn off chamber heater G28 ; home M84 ; disable motors M106 S0 ; part fans off

Here I set speed back to 100% in case I have been doing high speed printing, I don't want to try to home at 200 mm/s!

Please note the use of variables like [first_layer_temperature] are specific to slic3r/Prusa slic3r, I'm not sure they work with any other slicer.

Printer is a Kossel XL Delta.

Those are the instructions for setting up a Duet 0.6 in the (now discontinued) RepRapPro Ormerod, Huxley Due and Mendel 3 printers. They are somewhat out of date, but there is still a lot of good information in them.

It was through buying a RepRapPro Ormerod kit that I first got involved with the Duet.

I appreciate all the above suggestions, however, as you probably all assumed and much to my chagrin, it was a model/hardware issue combined with a bad config. Basically my setup is a chimera and my bed has a 1mm bow from the left to right, i'm currently using mesh levelling with it tapering off at 1cm, i think the taper and the curve of the bed is affecting the print because the other nozzle, whilst it works fine for most parts, can hit a piece of the model whilst travelling.

Clever, thank you for the reply, I appreciate there are bigger fish to fry right now with the FW issues.

ok….

thanks

M208 S1 Z-10 ;Allows temporally Z negative 10 mm, movements

No worries… thanks for clarifying.

My fault, I've connected the heater and thermistor to E1 instead of E0

Hi peirof

Thanks for your kind words!

Regarding the documentation we are evaluating a different system which should be easier to generate print outs and be.more logical.

Cheers

Tony

Print successful. Thanks!
Fixing the file system on the SD card fixed it!

Thanks, I've just corrected it.