Sorry, the beeping didnt come from the duet at all. My landlord installed a smoke detector right above it without telling me and that was the cause of the beeping.

Started a new topic to bring this to the attention of those who know the answer
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5444/how-do-we-send-pms

IR thermometers are OK for reading the bed temperature, but cannot get an accurate reading of hot end temperature. For that you should feed a thermocouple into the hot end in place of the filament.

Sounds like you've planned to do pretty much exactly what I've accidentally done...

Balco Touch (rebranded Wanhao i3 plus also) with Flexion extruder and hot end and Duet Wifi controller and BL touch.

I ended up with this over time after replacing various broken parts along the way.

How did you get on with the z steppers? I was under the impression that they'd need replacing with integrated lead screws..

Thank you for the help. Now to figure out why it won't heat up

@kulitorum said in 60000mm/sec (1m/sec) 3D printer:

xpected speed at 300mm/sec. We'll see what the c

Impressive!

I have not done a PID test, tho' now I know that is something else to go on my list of things to do and I did not notice any temp swings. I have, however, found the root of most of the problem: loose as a goose Y belt. Not sure how it loosened up, but the sucker is tighty tight now!

Are you sure you don't have "Keep local data only until you quit your browser" enabled in Chrome?

i just wanted to give a quick update, everything moves fine right now, but i could noch test ist because i dont have the tubing adapters for my chimera aqua and e3d keeps telling me it will be availible next week (for the last month)

i dipped the idex and built a 2nd printer in the enclosure (420x420x300mm) to run the 2nd chimera aqua.

0_1525359515555_IMG_20180503_164440[1].jpg

Phil

Dont look at the paperwork, it was from the wiring on a different printer I have (I was using it as scrap paper for the colour pin outs!) I am using twisted and double screened cable and the colours unfortunately dont quite match the standard so there is a bit of mixing going on. But I have made sure each motor is separate from the other as well as signals etc. There are quite a lot of plugs going into the Duet that need tidying, but the eternal tweaker in me likes the idea of being able to remove and change without having to totally rewire.

I got the integrated ballscrews from Gary Higgins at Zapp Automation. I only used these for compactness in x and y, z has standard couplings). The linear rails came from RS and Zapp.

Thanks for letting us know.

That's a nice solid looking build. Good luck with your business. Nice to see a fellow canadian printer around. 😉

I'd echo the comment in the linkedin article that what you are building is a high cost, high performance printer. There is nothing wrong with that, but apart from lowering cost by using sheet metal everything else is high spec. A low cost printer is around the $300-500 price point. But I am sure it will be a good machine given its specifications.

Looks awesome!

Once you've made all the changes you wish, you can either zip it all back up and upload that one file to the Duet via the DWC, or you can replace individual files in the /www directory.

Hint: If there is both a "whatever.xyz.gz" and a "whatever.xyz" file in /www, the .gz will be used. So either .gzip everything, or put the SD card in a PC/Mac and totally clean out the /www directory before putting your stuff in.

the heaters are for the heatbed (300x300mm, the heatbed itself is 610x930x6mm Aluminium), i picked 6 so i can heat the entire heatbed or just parts of it, when printing smaller. I will check the chamber temps with just the heatbed running.
I havent really thought about the filament getting soft, i might have to run some test when warm is to warm 😉

most of the pieces missing for my printer should arrive next week so i can run the first test.

thanks for your input

Phil

1200 seems to be the max with the motor any more and it jumps