Posts made by tmitch205

@dc42 Thank you for the confirmation. This prevents me from having to redo the wiring and firmware moving forward on a hope, lol.

Hello folks,

I am wiring up a new printer with a 6HC, a 3HC, and a 1LC.
There will be 4 Z drives, 1 X drive, and 2 Y drives.
If the drives for X and Y are on the 3HC, will input shaping work, or is that still not supported on the expansion board?

Thanks,
T

@dc42 said in Pressure Advance Calibration:

Yes that's a valid approach. It's on our list to add a generator of pressure advance tests scripts to reprapfirmware.org, but it hasn't happened yet.

I know this is a super old thread but wanted to check anyway. Has the generator been created and added? If so, could you provide the link, please?

@dc42 It was a combination of mismatched firmware between the TB and the MB, as well as a weak PSU... 350W 24V... Switched to a 450 24V, and matched the firmware. It is now completing the PID without the draw-down on the fan.

@voronswcroatia

This is mine...

M558 P9 C"121.io0.in" H5 F600:120 T6000 A1 ; set Z probe type to bltouch, pin assigned, dive height, max/min speeds, probe twice

The A 1 is one additional, A2 would be 2 additional, etc
Fspeed of first probe:speed of all subsequent probes

I would nix the S command until you have it working.

What do you mean by restart? Do you mean that DWC no longer connects to the board after reset following the update? Unless you have a static IP address assigned, it could be that as a coincidence, when you updated, your router reassigned a different IP address to the mac on the board.

If you are talking about the blue Install Update on the Machine-Specific tab when you say it asks to update... mine says that as well. It may be that as long as the ZIP file is present, that option is also present. That is my guess.

Need to see your Homez and Homeall, also

@phaedrux
I have tried M303 H1 S400 and M303 T0 S400 when the firmware was matching, I have not tried the second since the 1LC firmware update.

When both kept failing, I dropped the S down to 250, with the same results.

My config.g for the heater and PT1000 are:

M308 S1 P"121.temp0" Y"PT1000"
M950 H1 C"121.out0" T1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00
M143 H1 S450

@tmitch205 said in PID Tuning RTD PT1000 from the 1LC:

Under normal printing, I do not hear the fan draw down when the heater kicks in like I do in the test, and the heater maintains a temp of only +/- 2 degrees.

Clarification: that is +/- 2° while printing. During tuning, it's a 10° swing both ways while in stage 2.

@phaedrux

1. 6HC is v1.01 with 3.4.1
2. 1LC is v1.2 with 3.4.2rc3
3. 1LC updated from 3.4.1 to 3.4.2rc3 when Input Shaper couldn't see the accelerometer. 3.4.2 resolved the accelerometer issue, but the PID Tune issue remains.

If you are going to use an external 5V supply to the board, you must remove that jumper labeled INT 5V EN. You will wire the external 5V supply to the board using the EXT 5V IN pins found just to the left of the VIN Power In. Is this the 0.1 or 1.0 board?

As to why those pins for the other two options are missing, I have no clue. I use the 6HC, and those same 2 sets of pins on mine were never installed either.

@tmitch205 Disregard this one. I went diving into code for the prints. It's the slicer causing it. As an example, in the most recent one, for some reason, my layer height is set to .20, but the code has the skirt/brim at .32.

@phaedrux I was going to ask the same thing about static considering it's sitting on carpet. I have seen Duet 2 Wifi's lose their wifi connectivity due to this until they are restarted.

6HC + 1LC + Slice 50W Heater + Slice RTD PT1000

I have been trying to PID-tune the PT1000 for a while. It starts, gets to temp, then brings to the settling stage (Stage 2). The temp rises and falls until the tuning eventually fails. I suspect this is a current draw issue because I can hear the fan draw down when the heater kicks in during the test and pick back up when the heater reaches temp and kicks off.

Under normal printing, I do not hear the fan draw down when the heater kicks in like I do in the test, and the heater maintains a temp of only +/- 2 degrees.

I recall reading somewhere that the fix was to connect the heater and thermistor to the mainboard and PID-tune it.

Has there been an actual fix for this instead of a workaround?

RRF 3.4 + 6HC + 1LC + BLtouch + 4 Independent Z Lead Screws
The machine is a 600mm³ - Heated Bed
Z motors are 1.8°. Leadscrews are T8x8 4 Start. Using 8X micro-stepping. Steps @ 200. current set to 950.

My Z-Offset is not consistent. I have had to alter it at least eight times in the last two days. It will be fine for the next print I start after changing it. But the next print will be between .15 to .35mm off in either direction (too high or too low). I have seven other printers, and none have ever had this issue.

To set it:

1. I send G28.
2. I send G32.
3. I send M561.
4. I send the print head to the center of the bed.
5. I lower the nozzle onto the receipt paper just to the point that I can't move the paper.
6. I send G92 Z0
7. I raise the nozzle 10mm
8. I send G30 S-1
9. The number reported back is what I entered in config.g

Start script I use in my slicer is:
M107 ;start with the fan off
G32 ;
G29 S1 ;
G1 Z5 F3000 ;
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance

There are no offsets within my slicer.

I am at a loss. I am beginning to think it may be mechanical, possibly defective backlash nuts... I don't know.

What thoughts do any of you have to share?

@gloomyandy Sorry for the late reply. You know how it is when you get involved with printers... time just seems to disappear.

Updating the firmware resolved the issue. Thank you.

@gloomyandy I will do that and report back. Thank you for the suggestion.

@gloomyandy It sends a successful message in the console. I will get the exact wording in about 30 minutes.

@jay_s_uk I have a crap ton of the front, but none of the back. It will be a bit before I can get a pic of rear.

@jay_s_uk Correct

M955 P121.0 I10