Topics created by npm1

thanks for your efforts

@jay_s_uk oh great I was going to manually past all of the code

@deckingman said in 3d printer junk and parts:

@peter247 said in 3d printer junk and parts:

@deckingman You are guaranteed if you need a specialised tool to finish your job, you will never find it until you buy a new one to replace it.

That's very true. The same applies to fixings. If you want say an M5 x 10mm button head bolt, you'll find M4 x 10, M6 x10, M5 x 8 and M5 x 12 but no M5 x 10 - that is until you order some, then they'll turn up. 🙂

You forgot about the bit where the M5 x 10 do not show up until the newly ordered bolts actually arrive at your door step. This is especially true for items coming from China with a 3 week shipping time!

@npm1, you already know it's overkill. I would try to go to at least 20 ga .
18 ga with 8 cores is FAT and it will reflect on the movements of the head, Looks like very nice cable though with very fine strands and good flexibility

@npm1 said in inconsistent zoffset baby stepping on each print:

I have dual z axis,

Are the Z motors using the dual socket Z driver on the Duet2? Or are you using 2 independent drivers?

It's possible your z motors are getting out of sync and causing some tilt. If you have a spare driver you can use a driver for each motor and do tilt correction.

A trigger height of 4+mm on a bltouch is oddly large as well. When installed as directly by antclabs the trigger height should be ~2mm.

BLTouchZHeight.png

A lot has been said about material properties and surface finish etc but I really think you should consider adding to your toolbox. I would suggest that a minimum would be some good measuring and marking out tools, a dill press, files and a good hacksaw. The jigsaw is a roughing out tool at best when dealing with aluminium or steel. If you are not confident with filing, a small linisher or belt sander will not break the bank. The investment in some half decent tools will offset cost of the waste material and poor accuracy you will encounter otherwise. Oh, and aluminium would be my choice of material.
Good luck.

In RRF3 you do not need the U axis at all. Remove all references to it. The Y axis will know it's using two motors and endstops from the M584 and M574 commands and home accordingly with a single Y move.

Also in your commands that refer to the Y axis you only need to set the value once for that axis.

M350 X16 Y16:16 U16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X80.00 Y80.00:80.00 U80.00 Z1600.00 E415.00 ; set steps per mm M566 X900.00 Y900.00:900.00 U900.00 Z60.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00:6000.00 U6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X500.00 Y500.00:500.00 U500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X800 Y400:400 U400 Z800 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

For the Y axis you only need the value once. And remove U entirely.

Use M115 to double check your firmware version.

Same process as used for the Z axis as described here:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors#Section_In_RepRapFirmware_Num_3

you can build one yourself.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303618

its cheaper and more accurate.

also see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Reducing_Stand-Still_Noise

Will check

The board was completely gone with nothing being functional as it should

I am using these a lot (also the 2/3/5 pin versions)

http://www.sah.co.rs/df16-a-4b.html

c7335693-3e5d-4602-bf55-c77c034a3741-image.png

b5758bfc-c1f3-4f82-bfdb-c27819544963-image.png

they do not get warm at 5A 400V nor 5A 24V nor 5A 48V

my insulation tester goes up to 1000V and 2000M ohm and do not trip them. I have somewhere around the 2500V version too but can't seem to find it but I guess 1000V is ok for a PRC connector

Yes out of the box it should work fine. Though I'm not sure if anyone has reported on using the 2020 version yet, so do let us know if you have any issues, but if it's anything like the past v2 and v3 versions it should work without issue with no alteration.

Yeah, I get that they're different, and said as much, but they're still DC coils and still provide back EMF when turned, which the other motor provides a path for and it will apply opposing force within that one step.

In parallel they WILL take more current.

Say you have 2 motors, and want to deliver 1A to each of them. In series, you set your stepper driver to 1A current. No more than that will leave the driver. In parallel, you set your stepper driver to deliver 2A current, which each motor will draw from, and get 1A each. When the one motor stalls, its coil does not have the correct control inductance, since it did not move through the magnetic field as anticipated. It accordingly reduces its resistance, and draws more than its share of the 2A available, thus starving the current for the other motor. This is what stalls the second motor, as you observed happens. While stalled, the one motor will draw the majority of the 2A available. In addition, it becomes harder to detect that stall, if you are trying to do that.

I wouldn't recommend using an endstop and a probe. Just use the probe. If the trigger height is accurate and repeatable, you'll have a much better experience.

Only if you also use an external mosfet for the bed, connecting the dc/dc converter to the bed output probably wouldn't work too well, maybe if you used a low enough switching frequency.

By far the easiest method would be to run the 12v bed with 24v at a reduced duty cycle. Look at the P parameter for the M303 command. Beware this does carry some additional risk if the firmware or hardware were to have a problem leaving the heater turned on full power, but it could be mitigated by using a thermal fuse.

Hah, I never tried more than 400 (-: (200x200mm with a 10mm distance between each point). ISTR the limit on Marlin is around 150.

@npm1 said in Marlin to Reprap Speeds:

#define DEFAULT_XJERK 7.5
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 7.5
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.2
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 0.10

Marlin uses mm/sec for jerk, RRF uses mm/min for all speeds. So multiply the Marlin jerk values by 60 to get the M566 parameters for RRF. That gives:

M566 X450 Y450 Z12 E6

That E jerk value is very low and won't play nicely with pressure advance.

yes you are right. the duet pulses on the negative.

I think for now in relation to my other post I am likely to use basic painters tape with ABS juice, as I have seen a youtube video that shows it being effective for pla/abs/petg... whos to complain.

In fact after having an even better squish on a buildtak like surface, the print is sticking to well

when viewing the heightmap when i see red do i need to loosen or titan the set screw, and how about when I see blue do i tighten or loosen the screws.

Manage to sort out the height map and make it as even as possible please look and judge my handy work.

heightmap