Posts made by micaheli

@Phaedrux Great! Thanks.

@Phaedrux
Follow up question, is is sufficient to cool the back of the board around the stepper drivers? Or do the driver IC's need to be cooled directly? I see there are vias under the chips, I assume that's for thermal conductivity?

@Phaedrux Thanks. I can't mount it vertically unfortunately; at least not without redesigning a lot of the printer. But it's very possible to blow across the board near the drivers.

I appreciate the quick response!

Thanks,
Micah

I'm running my Duet 3 6HC in an electronics enclosure below my printer, so it should be thermally separate from the chamber. That said, if I wanted to run speeds greater than 80mm/sec and such, how critical is it to cool the drivers/MCU? Is it more important to cool the drivers than the MCU? I'm looking to design a custom DIN mount with fans and such and want to make sure I have the important bits taken care of.

Any help is appreciated.

@droftarts Great! Thanks for the link. That help a ton. I haven't ruined mine yet, but I'm more than prepared to accept that I might. Failure is always an option.

Is there an online source or sales team that can assist with getting a replacement FFC? Also, are there different lengths available?

Would love to know, and to keep a couple spare just in case.

@droftarts I do have crimpers. I used to do a lot of network cables back in the day. I have the tools/skills, I just hate those connectors. Home-Made, Pre-Made, or otherwise. I also don't want to have to unsheath a pre-made cable if I don't have to. Plus, a pre-made cable will end up costing almost as much as a big bag of connectors and won't end up lost in my bin-o-cables to be thrown away in 15 years when I finally dig through them.

@droftarts Ok! No problem I guess, I'll just order up some RJ-11's. Thanks for the super informative clarification.

Have a great day!

Hi! So I've started the wiring process on my new build and I'd rather not use RJ-11 connectors if I don't have to. I really prefer the dupont style connectors, but I'll break down and buy a pack of RJ-11 connectors if I have to.

Does the main CAN bus need to be populated for the AUX CAN to function? Or can I use it on it's own?

Thanks in advance!

--Micah

What's in your start gcode? That was my problem. Can you paste it here?

@dc42 Well, I may feel stupid now.

"M140 S{material_bed_temperature}" is correct. "M140S{material_bed_temperature}"

Not sure what M140S is, but it seems to be a reprap bug that turns off the wifi/display. Fixed the space and it seems to be working now. I'll keep going and see if it keeps working (I did have one or two times where the previous gcode worked, so not getting my hopes up entirely yet.)

Using a newly replaced (had a bad fan FET) duet 2 wifi on a paneldue 7i. All genuine and recent purchases (within the last 6 mo) all running the latest firmwares as of today. The configs work and printing seems to be working.

The problem is that the instant my print starts, the web UI times out and the paneldue 7i freezes on the last screen it was on prior to printing. The print starts and finishes fine, but this is a new development. Normally, I usually lose faith in any SD card I recieve in anything stock, so I put the contents of the SD on a brand new 32GB SanDisk microsd and tried that. Like the last one, I'll get a functioning setup for a couple minutes, then it'll fail.

What can I try to resolve this? I'm getting pretty frustrated with seemingly flakey (but expensive) hardware..

--Micah

Filastruder is sending me a new unit. Thanks everybody for your help. I may make a digikey order for those fets now though, just so I have them when my warranty ends. haha.

Glad to help. I ran a large forum for a while and the level of google indexing and such that leads people to a solution is usually worth coming back for.

@droftarts Thanks for that! As I mentioned, I'd prefer a warranty replacement for sure. I think @T3P3Tony and @dc42 have to comment on this thread directly for filastruder to honor it.

I have the skills to replace a mosfet, but not the equipment at this time. I also would hate to void my warranty. That's half the reason I buy genuine stuff in the first place. (the other half being that I'm supporting the creator)

I have tried inverting the output to the fan through the gcode. I verified the fan's functionality and polarity on another PWM output as well as the always on outputs.

As for unplugging with the board powered, I did not do this as I typically don't work on electronics while they are powered. I've learned the hard way when I was young.

I'm really at a loss here. I want to use that output and I was really banking on it working. Does anybody have anything else I can try? Is there a way to test for a bad mosfet? @T3P3Tony ? Filastruder needs an admin here to confirm this to get a replacement sent out.

--Micah

For documentation purposes, I figured the issue out. The issue was that the potentiometer was rotated 180 degrees. Had some back and forth emails with Idris @Precision Piezo and he confirms that it's a super hard thing to diagnose. I just got lucky and gave it a shot.

The Orion is working flawlessly now.

@T3P3Tony Any thoughts on what my next steps are?

I think I figured it out..... My PETG printed part may have been slightly warped. Printed in PLA and it works... Huh.