I'm happy to report that Dave's IR sensor works great with TinyMachine's PEI plate and WhamBam's PEX plate. It is ok on textured PEI, but I believe the uneven-ness of the texture throws off the height map slightly.

@dc42
I cannot thank you enough. Your selflessness, knowledge, and advice you've given over the last few years has helped me immensely and taught me so much. There is always a lazy answer, but you always take the time to explain. I hope Duet is paying you extremely well. I'll run into a snag or two, and I archive the forum, and its usually your advice that always leads me to a solution. Very rarely have I seen such efficient/ problem solving subject matter experts, and very few like you left anymore. Thanks.

Duet Mini 5 wifi and 1LC toolhead on a 500x500 corexy.

I I've been running it for 2 days. No issues have appeared as of yet. Print quality is much better; PA & IS appear to be working quite well.

I am trying to compensate a Y axis issue that is beyond simple frame resonance, because it is purely a fault of my own, due to my gantry movement design. I was actually able to apply the input shaping specifically to the Y axis and tune a fair amount out; enough that I am seeing results. Part of it is also being able to tune feature jerk settings in the newest Orcaslicer RC release. I will redesign the gantry later on to remove the issue.

I still think the biggest issue is that the DWC IS interface needs more diagnostic options and a better explanation how it works and how to use it. I can see a lot of people trying to get IS to work but not really understanding what they are looking for or ideas on how to effectively utilize it. They get frustrated and run off to Klipper.

These macros have been a great aid. I wrote additional macros for all of the IS algorithms in single steps 30-50 Hz. I found it useful for real-time tweaking freqs during actual printing. I can upload them somewhere if anyone wants them.

I'm having the same issue. My post keeps getting flagged as spam.

@br7408 said in Flagged as Spam??:

I'm having the same issue. My post keeps getting flagged as spam.

I tried posting from a different computer and it works now. Wierd.

My slightly modified Creality 5 pro prints FLAWLESS prints in ASA within +/- .03mm, and perfect corners every time, and has printed several hundred of these prints for two years now in numerous sizes and detail; with no PA or IS applied.

I wonder what the true problem is here…

If you’re relying on current software to fully tune out harmonic and flow issues of your printer, you simply need to slow down your outer perimeter print speed and accept the limitations of your printer.

Without a full feedback loop of accurate algorithms, no current software will be able to adjust for all conditions and provide the accuracy that people seem to think is expected. What is happening instead is we turn into the feedback loop and chase countless inconsistencies.

You will be more successful and efficient resolving resonance/pressure issues by improving the physical design of the printer than you will be expecting software to resolve it.

I’ve been fighting this shit for over a year now, and I’m tired. I’ve finally figured out that simply slowing down outer perimeters, turning down PA and turning off IS & optimizing outer perimeter jerk/accel/speed gives me the best and most consistent print and I don’t need to re-tune for every nozzle size or material. Yes, its slower. Its also much less filament/nozzle dependent and more consistent. I can still print infill and supports at insane fast speeds to cut down on time.

If you really want super speed, buy a Bamboo and deal with their proprietary bullshit.

@Notepad

Not sure why you seem to be so offended as my comments were not even a reply to your post specifically. I guess that is what the internet has become these days.

I feel it absolutely is on topic. The entire industry right now is using printing and movement speed as a selling point to their machines, and this entire topic is based on software algorithms that are implemented SOLELY to improve printing speed. My Creality 5 Pro is not a Bowden machine, as you assume. It is also only one of four printers that I own. I only use it as an example because it is the one machine that prints consistently with zero corner issues or resonance with zero PA or IS applied and it does this due to the specific reasons that I highlighted.

I have been tuning my Duet-based CoreXY printer for a very long time, using and implementing just about every approach possible, and with each approach, it always comes back to the same basic principle, which I adequately highlighted. Software is not going to make a machine faster when it has specific analog traits and limitations that vary beyond the capability of the software. Yes, it is fun to try, and yes, I can find one or two prints and apply a limited amount of IS and PA and eventually get them perfect... But when I go from a .6 to .8 nozzle and an entirely different material viscosity, or even filament brand... guess what... I need spend another 6 hours tuning IS, flow rate, PA, ect. to get that next print perfect, or I can just slow down and print it in 4 hours instead of 2 or 3 and already have been done with the print. Perhaps my view from a business owner standpoint is different because time to me is money.

You can try and speak for Duet all you want and become offended over some words. Quite the contrary to a defeatist attitude; my sole point is that one should be well aware of the limits of their machine and manage their expectations accordingly. The Bambu comment was because I actually am on loan with one right now to test and study. I am not a fan of proprietary machines, and never have been. The requirements of my business are well beyond the size capabilities of a Bambu. I do feel like they have gotten a few things right because this machine indeed uses feedback to adjust for changing analogous conditions per print and per material and the results are quite evident.

I can assure you the Duet engineers are studying the same technology as well and doing their best to determine future implementation. The bigger burden is on the Duet engineers to design an open source software that works across any machine, which of course is a much greater challenge, and I have nothing but commendation for Duet, Dave Crocker, and the hard work they have put in to meet customer expectations to date. I would not be in a Duet forum with over a thousand dollars invested in numerous Duet boards if I was not a huge fan of both their product and their work.

@droftarts I found I was able to get it the smoothest right around minimum 600 jerk. Speed wise it obviously depends on the nozzle size and material, but with a .6 and ASA getting nice smooth outer walls around 160 mm/s with 36hz mzv on the resonance tower. Inside walls I can print up to 200. Accel generally around 4-6k.

I have been revising and perfecting this first printer build for over a year now through a culmination of knowledge experimentation and research driven mostly by passion. It's a large Ratrig Vcore 3.1 based 500x500mm bed corexy running AWD, and a pogo pin manually interchangeable tool head that I designed. It also has an active heating chamber/ forced air external fume extraction system and high velocity air part cooling system that I designed. All mechanical components are top of the line; this printer performs very well. I am running it with a Duet 3 wifi board, 1LC, as well as Duet's infrared bed sensor and scanning probe. I am no engineer (I hate math), but I am a perfectionist. I usually print ASA and Polycarbonate.

I just started to build printer #2. This printer will be identical mechanically, except running a BTT Octopus board with Klipper through Raspberry Pi. I figure this would create a great opportunity to test bed two mechanically exact identical printers using two different firmware/operating systems side by side.

Its pretty clear that corexy printers are the current performance standard, and larger scale models are in huge demand as they will meet the near future consumer demands of FDM 3D printing.

I'm more than willing to offer my time to work with or help duet engineers later on for side by side testing and comparison, if this configuration will be of any benefit to you.

@dc42

Excellent. I actually did more digging around last night and found one of your posts in another forum from many years ago recommending this. I will try it and report back. Your sensor is absolutely the best one out there in my opinion, so I will be happy to get it working on this machine.

UPDATE: That did the trick David. It is now booting in digital mode. Thank you.

I am doing a second build of a similar printer to my first (Duet 3 wifi), running Klipper on a BTT Octopus 1.1 instead. I wanted to use the IR Height sensor on this build as well because it works really well with my heated bed (strong magnets).

I notice on startup, I get 4 pulses (analog) instead of 2 (digital). I do have the pullup signal activated, but I read somewhere about the signal from the board not engaging in time, or similarly needing to add an additional resistor to provide the proper current to activate digital mode.

I cannot find any consistent information anywhere, though. Are there any known fixes for this?

The (seemingly) most feasible solution I have read is from the original IR Sensor website that discusses adding a 470 ohm pulldown resistor from the sensor pin to the ground pin.

Is this issue confirmed fixed with the update? I'm on 3.5.1.

I did an M600, where I had my printhead move into position for a filament change on my filament-change.g

For filament-change.g I have an M291 to resume, followed by an M24.

I tested it on a small 7 layer test print to verify, and it worked flawlessly.

On a very large and expensive print, after filament change, on resume it returned to 5mm above the resume point, then dove the extruder deep into the print and then stopped. Time and expensive material wasted.

Also got the "Error in GCode file line XXXX" and "Axis X is already in use by a different motion system. "

Those errors were not present on the test print either.

@gnydick So you are running an upper and lower rail on your x gantry? What model printer? I only ask because I have contemplated running dual x rails myself on my corexy.

Of the things you fixed, which of the fixes do you think was the most influencing change, in regards to solving your resonance issue?

Are you running damper plates on your stepper motors? I found that those quieted mine down immensely.

@Chriss said in Jerk/M566 how to find the ideal setting?:

@br7408 Thanks... that sounds like a very cool way to find the right values. .... I will give it a try....

I literally reconfirmed this again yesterday.

I was printing a partially radiused object (120 mm fan shroud), and I figured I'd lower the jerk a little just to see if I could get a slower start on the straight edges, to help the IS work a little sooner. As soon as I dropped outside wall jerk to 540, I could hear the steppers ratcheting on radius moves, and the outside wall of the radius was choppy. Went back to 600 and it was fine again.

I think jerk is literally one of the only settings that my printer really can consistently tell me what the minimum acceptable setting is.

Now this is a 4 motor corexy.... I don't know if that would make a difference.

These macros have been a great aid. I wrote additional macros for all of the IS algorithms in single steps 30-50 Hz. I found it useful for real-time tweaking freqs during actual printing. I can upload them somewhere if anyone wants them.

You can put in and record your own moves with IS if needed, if you want to utilize moves other than what is available on the IS interface in DWC.

For example, on a corexy machine, it can be useful to run opposite xy diagonal moves to check the variance on belt tension, in a similar manner that Klipper does. I run a code such as this. These moves will show up as move 4 and 5 in the input shaper graph after refreshing the screen. I then compare the xy frequency peaks of each move to verify.

G1 X-150 Y-150 G4 S3 M956 P120.0 S1000 A0 F"5-X64-191-0-none.csv" G4 P10 G1 X150 Y150 F10000
G1 X150 Y-150 G4 S3 M956 P120.0 S1000 A0 F"4-X64-191-0-none.csv" G4 P10 G1 X-150 Y150 F10000

Obviously you will need to modify the code for your own machine, and depending on where your xy origin is.

I have been revising and perfecting this first printer build for over a year now through a culmination of knowledge experimentation and research driven mostly by passion. It's a large Ratrig Vcore 3.1 based 500x500mm bed corexy running AWD, and a pogo pin manually interchangeable tool head that I designed. It also has an active heating chamber/ forced air external fume extraction system and high velocity air part cooling system that I designed. All mechanical components are top of the line; this printer performs very well. I am running it with a Duet 3 wifi board, 1LC, as well as Duet's infrared bed sensor and scanning probe. I am no engineer (I hate math), but I am a perfectionist. I usually print ASA and Polycarbonate.

I just started to build printer #2. This printer will be identical mechanically, except running a BTT Octopus board with Klipper through Raspberry Pi. I figure this would create a great opportunity to test bed two mechanically exact identical printers using two different firmware/operating systems side by side.

Its pretty clear that corexy printers are the current performance standard, and larger scale models are in huge demand as they will meet the near future consumer demands of FDM 3D printing.

I'm more than willing to offer my time to work with or help duet engineers later on for side by side testing and comparison, if this configuration will be of any benefit to you.

@droftarts I found I was able to get it the smoothest right around minimum 600 jerk. Speed wise it obviously depends on the nozzle size and material, but with a .6 and ASA getting nice smooth outer walls around 160 mm/s with 36hz mzv on the resonance tower. Inside walls I can print up to 200. Accel generally around 4-6k.

My method for jerk setting...

I generally print a stepped series of radials (or a cone) and watch what the printhead is doing as it prints the outer radial. With jerk too low, you will see small corner artifacts on the outer wall and you will see & hear the printhead making abrupt movements. As you raise the jerk, the radial wall will smooth out and the printhead will move much smoother. I usually raise the jerk during the print using M566 in small intervals just to where the printhead/radial just starts to smooth out, and that setting seems to work great.

It also really also depends on how your printer does with resonance and whether or not you need input shaping. With less jerk, I find the input shaper tends to work a little better. Excessive jerk can also elicit resonances right after sharp corners.