Crimping tool?

bot

No, but the question was which tool is the exact correct tool, and the answer is the one I linked to.

A Former User

LOL. Can't fault that

gnydick

@bot, holy crap, $400.

Veti

yeah most of the molex tools are really expensive.

A Former User

All of the name brand tools are expensive, but you will do just fine with a $40 tool (I.e. the Engineer PA-09) and some practice, or even the $20 Chinese IWISS clone for that matter.

Half way down this page you'll see some illustrations showing you how to adjust your crimping for good results, after a while you'll get a pretty good feel for it, visual inspection is a good indicator and you could always try pulling on the wires and see if the wire breaks or if it slips out of the terminal till you get the hang of it.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

Was hoping to find another link that had more of a poster format with more or less the same pictures, but, apparently not today.

Edit:
poster: http://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/65780-4_Crimp Quality Poster.pdf

gnydick

@bearer very cool

percar

This crimper is a full cycle style printer and works very well
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IWISS-Dupont-Pin-Crimping-Tool-2-54mm-3-96mm-28-18AWG-0-1-1-0mm2-Compression/32769475118.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dUm3Gtt

zapta

I am getting very good results with this crimper https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B078WNZ9FW

It's handle is more comfortable and was able to get better crimps than with Engineer's PA-09/20/21.

gnydick

@zapta I'll check it out!

zapta

@gnydick, I am using the 1.3 slot for crimping the conductor and 1.9 slot for crimping the insulation.

Before you insert the two wings into a slot to crimp, use the tip of the tool to press the wings to become parallel.

One advantage over the Engineer is that when you crimp the conductors, at one point the two wings collapse at once which makes a satisfying click that indicates that you are done. With the Engineer the crimping was more gradual, the more you press the tighter it crimps. (this is my experience, YMMV)

gnydick

@zapta thank you!

A Former User

The gradual crimping by the Engineer tool is what makes it so much more flexible, it can give you a good crimp for almost any wire size with some practice.

cookie

Hello,

I’ve ordered this crimping tools, the set come with 11 head, for my JST needed: http://s.aliexpress.com/3eu6rY3E

Is this kind of tool also works with Duet’s Molex kk or I’ve to get specific one?

Thanks,
Cookie

dc42

@cookie said in Crimping tool?:

Hello,

I’ve ordered this crimping tools, the set come with 11 head, for my JST needed: http://s.aliexpress.com/3eu6rY3E

Is this kind of tool also works with Duet’s Molex kk or I’ve to get specific one?

That crimping tool looks very versatile if you get the multi-jaw kit, however the jaws for JST or Molex crimp terminals are the SN-2 which it says cover 13 to 23AWG. It's not uncommon to use 26AWG, and some devices are supplied with 28AWG wires.

A popular ratchet crimping tool for Molex connectors is HT225D which is readily available in many countries. it will probably work on JST connectors too, but it doesn't do ferrules.

A Former User

@cookie said in Crimping tool?:

Hello,

I’ve ordered this crimping tools, the set come with 11 head, for my JST needed: http://s.aliexpress.com/3eu6rY3E

Is this kind of tool also works with Duet’s Molex kk or I’ve to get specific one?

Thanks,
Cookie

I have one of those, and while nice, I find it far too bulky to allow you to make decent crimps on smaller gauge wire you end up not being able to control the bulk and cant see what you are doing very well.

cookie

@dc42 Thanks. Yes, seem like at least thermistor wires are smaller. Also, like Calvinx said .. the head seem to be too thick to work with small wires. Then, this set are for other jobs .. mostly.

So, I’m going to order another one for small wires because this tool should last very long and worth buying, but HT-225D aren’t available in my region. There aren’t so many options with good reviews I could get. So, I’ve narrow down to these two:

1.) Iwiss SN-01BM $21.5 (my region) got a very good review from buyers.

2.) Iwiss 2820M $24 (my region), as suggested in comments above that could works.

Any idea Which one seem to provide better result or easier (I’m quite new to wiring) ?

Thanks, Cookie

frank26080115

I use SN-01BM all the time. The die seems very nicely made, should last forever.

I prefer the SN-01BM over the 2820M because it crimps both the conducting end and the insulation end in one go. I'm pretty good at using it, stripping the right amount and positioning the wire correctly, so it's not a problem not being able to see into it.

Because it does everything in one single action, you can't squeeze too tight and destroy the entire crimp. That's another advantage of the SN-01BM over 2820M.

gnydick

the main problem I was having with my iwiss set is that the jaws are so wide, I couldn't wrangle the little parts together because I couldn't see what I was doing. That kit with all of the interchangeable jaws looks like it'd have the same issue.

zapta

@bearer said in Crimping tool?:

The gradual crimping by the Engineer tool is what makes it so much more flexible,

This is also their down side, not providing consistent results as a good, and often expensive, ratchet crimper.

frank26080115

@gnydick said in Crimping tool?:

the main problem I was having with my iwiss set is that the jaws are so wide, I couldn't wrangle the little parts together because I couldn't see what I was doing. That kit with all of the interchangeable jaws looks like it'd have the same issue.

the jaws need to be that wide though, they are as wide as the crimps are

if you want to cheat, try this

strip the wire to the right length
put the wire into the crimp
using your fingernails, squeeze the insulating end of the crimp so that it is gripping the insulation
now when you insert the crimp into the crimper, the wire won't move around, making it easy

another tip is that some crimps come on reels, you might be inclined to clip it off of the reel first. DON'T! Cut the reel but keep that little tab attached to the crimp while you crimp, then cut off the tab.

and finally, do not: insert crimp into crimper, squeeze crimper half way, insert wire. Because that's how you end up not being able to see anything.