Crimping tool?
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Will have to echo Veti, the Engineer PA-09 is a great tool after a little practice. You'll find a clone by a Chinese manufacturer IWISS IWS-2820M for about half the price, which gets the job done and has a reasonable quality; I just prefer the ergonomics of the Engineer tool.
In any case you need a crimper for 1.6mm open barrel terminal. The ratcheting type is simpler to use, but ideally you'll need different dies for different wire gauge, and it used to be difficult to find quality dies at a reasonable price, at least compared to the manual tool that works well with most wire gauges as long as the terminal can accommodate the wire.
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This one work really well
Pince à sertir universelle pour... https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B002AVVO7U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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@jackantubis said in Crimping tool?:
This one work really well
thats the engineer-pa20. it will also work. but you wont be able to crimp the connectors used for the stepper motor plugs.
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@veti said in Crimping tool?:
@jackantubis said in Crimping tool?:
This one work really well
thats the engineer-pa20. it will also work. but you wont be able to crimp the connectors used for the stepper motor plugs.
Refering to the JST PH 2.00mm connection found on most steppers these days?
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Another vote for the PA-09
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This is the exact correct tool to use for one of the pins specified in documentation according to the manufacturer.
With crimp pin terminals, there will usually be one specific tool that is meant to be used with the pins. In most cases, actually, the hand-held tools are only meant for repair and prototyping and the "real authorized" tool is a huge pneumatic machine.
In any event, you can often use a generalized crimp tool labeled to crimp D-Sub terminals, or suitable replicas of such. Be sure to test the tool with each crimp/wire combo to ensure that you're reliably making the connection. You should be able to pull the crimp pin while holding the wire, and the wire should break. If the wire simply slips out of the crimp pin you have not made a secure connection. This test must be performed without crimping the secondary part onto the insulation -- only the conductor portion of the crimp should be used when performing the pull test.
*not actually a robot
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Can you 100% say that it makes a £300 better job than the others that have been listed? Me no think so...
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No, but the question was which tool is the exact correct tool, and the answer is the one I linked to.
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LOL. Can't fault that
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@bot, holy crap, $400.
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yeah most of the molex tools are really expensive.
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All of the name brand tools are expensive, but you will do just fine with a $40 tool (I.e. the Engineer PA-09) and some practice, or even the $20 Chinese IWISS clone for that matter.
Half way down this page you'll see some illustrations showing you how to adjust your crimping for good results, after a while you'll get a pretty good feel for it, visual inspection is a good indicator and you could always try pulling on the wires and see if the wire breaks or if it slips out of the terminal till you get the hang of it.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/Was hoping to find another link that had more of a poster format with more or less the same pictures, but, apparently not today.
Edit:
poster: http://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/65780-4_Crimp Quality Poster.pdf -
@bearer very cool
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This crimper is a full cycle style printer and works very well
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/IWISS-Dupont-Pin-Crimping-Tool-2-54mm-3-96mm-28-18AWG-0-1-1-0mm2-Compression/32769475118.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dUm3Gtt -
I am getting very good results with this crimper https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B078WNZ9FW
It's handle is more comfortable and was able to get better crimps than with Engineer's PA-09/20/21.
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@zapta I'll check it out!
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@gnydick, I am using the 1.3 slot for crimping the conductor and 1.9 slot for crimping the insulation.
Before you insert the two wings into a slot to crimp, use the tip of the tool to press the wings to become parallel.
One advantage over the Engineer is that when you crimp the conductors, at one point the two wings collapse at once which makes a satisfying click that indicates that you are done. With the Engineer the crimping was more gradual, the more you press the tighter it crimps. (this is my experience, YMMV)
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@zapta thank you!
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The gradual crimping by the Engineer tool is what makes it so much more flexible, it can give you a good crimp for almost any wire size with some practice.
