effector tilting into bed on print
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@timvukman said in effector tilting into bed on print:
I never considered the mounting of the balls. It certainly makes sense that it could be the problem.
Just my "eyeball" from the vid, so take with a grain of salt: The rods look WAY too long for the other dimensions of the printer.
Curious, what are the rods (ball center to ball center), what are the horizontal extrusions (not counting the corners) and what are the vertical extrusions (again, not counting corners)?
And, if you know, what "brand" of corners?
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This is looking much better. I took 10 out of the radius for now.
6:24:31 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.945 after 0.943
6:22:57 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.954 after 0.949
Look better? -
@timvukman said in effector tilting into bed on print:
This is looking much better. I took 10 out of the radius for now.
6:24:31 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.945 after 0.943
6:22:57 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.954 after 0.949
Look better?The deviation is consistent now (i.e. the "before" deviation reported by G32 is close to the predicted "after" deviation of the previous G32). However the absolute deviation is still very high, which will make printing difficult.
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Not sure what else can be done unless I further reduce the radius. Not a big deal. I'm ok with printing small things. That's what I am trying to get done at the moment. Just a toothpaste squeezer for my step daughter.
This whole conversation does make me wonder or at least think I need to do something else going forward.
Once I get the new duet effector, I can of course mount the balls vertically for the magnetic rods. Is that combination likely to deliver an acceptable level of quality.
I have been giving serious consideration to replacing the plastic pieces that came with this printer with aluminum or some kind of metal. I would think metal parts would square up much better with the verticals that really are about the only metal that was in the kit. I have a feeling you would agree. Should I also expand the size of the verticals. Right now they are 20 x 20. I have seen the metal frame parts available with 20 x 40 openings for the verticals. Is that a worthwhile investment?
Thanks
Tim -
Took another 10mm out of the radius
7:10:42 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.911 after 0.910
7:08:56 PMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.924 after 0.919 -
Something is very wrong if you can't get below 0.9mm deviation. If you run mesh bed levelling, with the same radius set as you are using for auto calibration, what does the height map look like?
What belts are you using?
Did you remember to change the L parameter in M665 to the length of the rods you are now using?
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The belts are LL 2GT - 6. Perhaps they are not tight enough?
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I was more concerned that the belts might be steel core, which are known to be unsuitable for delta printers.
The height map shows that there is something wrong with the mechanism. I suggest you work through the list of likely errors at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#Section_Make_sure_your_build_is_accurate. One other test to do is to check that pure Z moves through the available height don't show any XY motion.
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Yes, I did change the L parameter in M665.
I just got the mail, and my duet effector arrived. Thanks so much for including a spirit level in the kit. That was a nice surprise.
Obviously, I have much to take apart to install this kit. I promise I will work through each stage of the Make sure your build is accurate. I am seriously interested in seeing what I might find.
We'll see how long this takes and then I will report back.
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The new effector is installed with the magnetic rods.
HomeDelta worked fine. I have lights! I hate all crimp connectors!!!
Putting the carriage adapters in took a little creativity. I have three wheels on each, staggered, and the length of one screw was preventing the backing plate from sitting properly. A shorter screw solved the problem, so all is good. All three are identical in construction and are at the same level when homed.
I have no housing for the part fan until I print one, so we shall see how that works at some point down the road.
I also have lost my trigger height capability since it was a physical switch triggered mechanically on the old effector.
On to setting Z=0
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I'm curious since I have no Z probe right now.
"Your can run auto calibration without a Z probe if you tell RepRapFirmware that you have no Z probe, by using parameter P0 in your M558 command in config.g. However, auto calibration is easier and faster if you have a Z probe. The choice of a suitable Z probe should take account of the following factors:"
The above text was in the page you pointed in your text.If I were to manually send the effector down to z0 at various places, would that give me an accurate reading at each point? ie, since I can't run G32 without a Z probe. (I am assuming that I can't run G32 since I have no spring / switch assembly to protect the nozzle.
Could I run G32 is I set the dive height to 0?
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I thought you bought the Smart Effector? It has the Z-probe built in.
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This is the description
The Smart Effector for delta printers allows the hotend to be used as a Z probe giving fantastic accuracy across the whole delta build area by eliminating the effect of tilt. It uses precision PCB manufacturing to ensure equal hole spacing between the effector and the carriages on the towers, further improving accuracy.
Supplied with a custom machined e3d v6 heatsink (produced by e3d on our behalf).
Supplied with 3 PCB carriage adapters with 20mm mounting hole spacing compatible with common linear rails and wheel carriages.
Compatible with Haydn Huntley’s Magball delta arms - available from Haydn directly or other suppliers.
The smart effector simplifies wiring of hotend components with plug connectors from thermistor and fans along with a screw terminal for the heater cartridge. Molex and microfit connections are then used for wiring looms back to the control electronics. Crimp pins and housings are supplied for all connections
On board LEDs for print illumination are compatible with either 12V or 24V power supplies with a jumper selecting the voltage.
More detail is available on the wiki.We recommend you purchase directly from Think3DPrint3D if you are located in the UK.
What's in the box:
Smart Effector board
3 x PCB carriage adapters
Custom E3D heatsink
Connector kit
Buy a Smart Effector from #Spool3D for your 3D printer in Canada without the surprise cost of the exchange rate!This is the photo
I see nothing on the board that indicates there is a z probe installed. I have one on my other printer, which is a separate item. I was assuming it is built in somehow on this board. I see where the cable connects on the 8 pin connector, but there are no angled leds on the board like there are on the separate unit I have.
There is nothing on the hot end that extends close enough that it would trigger. Should there not have been a separate board included? It looks like it is supposed to be screwed onto the fan bracket according to the documentation, but I have no separate board.
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My kit did not have the blue cap shown covering the nozzle. Is that where the probe is?
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The probe is built into the PCB. It uses the nozzle to probe the bed and the PCB detects the force. See the commissioning section in the fitting instructions at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer.
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Ooops. Sorry about that. I hadn't read the commissioning part yet when I wrote my note. I'm glad to know that my kit wasn't missing any parts.
I will follow the commissioning instructions very carefully and report back
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I have gone through the commissioning section.
I get the green light for the z-probe.
The hot end stops on the way down when I tap the nozzle.
Auto configuration returns
G32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 2.045 after 0.181Homeall
G32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.238 after 0.226
G32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.204 after 0.199Observations / Comments / Chance of printing?
Please advise -
@timvukman do several Autocals (without homing in-between) til it converges so the the before and after figures are about the same your figures still seem a bit high tho they are better than before as a matter of interest high many factors are you calibrating?
Doug
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I'm not sure what you mean by how many factors. I believe it is 6. That is my S setting
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G32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.206 after 0.202Better?
