effector tilting into bed on print

TimVukman

Hi:

I have a complete configuration cube!

Z=18.2 width x 20 height
Y=20 width x 18.2 height
X=18.2 width x 18.2 height

I want to print fan_duct_40mmv2_fixed to put on the smart effector. It loads into S3d as X160.67, Y59.62 and Z33.29

I don't think those are correct dimensions and it says the scale is 2540.00%. S3D says it is too large to auto position when I click center and arrange. I have tried changing scaling in the past which usually results in a visible model with 0 file size and therefore doesn't print and object.

I've pulled v3 off thingiverse.

TimVukman

How do I fix the widths that are coming in at 18.2mm?

dc42

Check that you have entered the correct L parameter in the M665 command in config.g. It should be the length of the errors measured between bearing centres.
To make small corrections to the X and Y scaling use the M579 command. But I suggest you use a larger calibration object for that.

TimVukman

Thanks dc42.

The L parameter has not been changed throughout all that we have done. On four of the rods, it is 360.20. The other two rods are 360.21. Would it be better to have the two rods that are 360.21 on the same carriage?, or to place them opposite each other?

I will look into the M579 command. I am printing the cooling fan holder (V1) for the heated bed and I need the accuracy for the screw holes.

Thanks,
Tim

dc42

It's best to have those two rods on the same carriage - although with such a small difference, it probably doesn't matter.

TimVukman

Thanks. That was my thought so that is what I did.

My cooling fan for the hot end stopped during a print yesterday. (I hate crimp connectors.) Fan is fine, lost power. I didn't notice until the filament extruder started clicking and then I saw that no filament was being laid down.

I would rather not drill it out because I would likely damage / destroy the plastic tube. If I put the cooling fin assembly in boiling water, would the filament melt and flow out (or push out) of the tube?

dc42

If it's PLA then with the nozzle at 100C, the heatsink cool and the Bowden tube removed, you should be able to pull the filament out of the hot end the way it went in, if it hasn't broken off already.

TimVukman

Thanks, I will file that for the future. The filament broke just inside the tube when I was trying to remove it while I still had heat on. I don't have enough space around the filament to grab it with anything.

TimVukman

I'm back up and running. I had a really decent filament coil inside the hotend before it got into the tube. Obviously, one cannot run a printer without a functioning cooling fan.

The X adjustment for the M579 worked out to 1.0185. Not only did that fix the spacing for the screw holes, it improved the printer quality in the corners.

TimVukman

For my purposes, I consider this thread complete with very high satifaction!

Thanks
Tim

dc42

Thank you!