effector tilting into bed on print
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Currently you have the steps/mm set to 80 in the M92 command. That would be correct if you are using 1.8deg motors and 20 tooth GT2 pulleys. Are you using 16 tooth pulleys instead? If so then you need to set 100 steps/mm in M92, which would account for getting 80mm of movement when you command 100.
Caution: after correcting the steps/mm you must correct the homed height (M665 H parameter), then set the M558 dive height parameter (also H) to a higher value e.g. 30, re-run auto calibration a few times, and copy the new M665/M666 values to config.g.
Also, I suggest you reduce the maximum XYZ speeds in the M203 command to 9000 until you know that everything is working well. After that you can test higher speeds.
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Thanks!
I figured that was the case, and I had tried changing the Z step. I had left X and Y because they were correct in size on the configuration cube that I was trying to print.
I can see why they all have to change. I'm getting pretty good with M665/M666 changes. I have been setting my Z=0 by changing the H in M665 in config.g
The changes don't carry over to config-override.g M665. I'm pretty sure I did an M500. I have been editing the M665 in config-override.g even though the file says not to edit it.
I will implement the required changes and reset the parameters.
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The machine went nuts when I tried to run the auto config after making the changes.
It seems that one should delete the M665/M66 lines before running it after changes like those are made.
I had radius information that was almost the diameter of the bed. Pulled the magnets right off the carriage (Z)
I deleted M655/M66, reran auto config, saved that. Then I power cycled the machine and rehomed and then reran autoconfig. That put the correct values into config-override.g and I was ok from there.
10:12:37 AMG32
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.045 after 0.035Now, to try a configuration cube
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@timvukman said in effector tilting into bed on print:
The machine went nuts when I tried to run the auto config after making the changes.
It seems that one should delete the M665/M66 lines before running it after changes like those are made.
I had radius information that was almost the diameter of the bed. Pulled the magnets right off the carriage (Z)I'm sorry, I thought that setting the M665 H parameter to the measured value and increasing the dive height to 30 would be sufficient for auto calibration to work correctly.
Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.045 after 0.035
That's more like it!
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At the moment, my delta is laying down a beautiful cube.
I'm not sure I could have fixed this is there was one thing wrong, but certainly, there was at least 4 or 5 things wrong. With the interdependence of all of the elements, I was chasing problems that were changing each time I made changes.
Thank you all for giving me a starting point, and a logical way to deal with each issue at the point in time it needed to be dealt with so that the other issues could be dealt with in the proper order.
Setting up my Cartesian with the DuetWifi was so simple in comparison, but each issue could be addressed without really causing new ones.
I love the silent smooth printing that this board provides, and I am extremely impressed with the smart effector.
I have plans to build a Thor Arm printer next. I have a few Nema17 motors left after upgrading my cartesian to 24V and Nema23 motors.
So, I will be ordering another DuetWifi
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24% in. It looks like the nozzle is trenching the model. Over extrusion?
At 25% printed, height on the browser screen says it is at 5mm. Rough measurement says it might be 1mm higher for the actual model. The model is starting to rock back and forth on the tape it's printing on.
When I changed the XYZ steps /mm to 100, I did not recalibrate the filament extruder. Should I do that?
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The extruder calibration is not affected by the XYZ steps/mm, however if you haven't already calibrated the extruder then I recommend that you do.
What infill percentage did you use when you sliced the model?
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I did calibrate the extruder for 100mm and it was dead on. Print quality is set for medium.
Interior Fill Percentage = 90%
Outline Overlap = 15%
Infill Extrusion Width 100%
Minimum Infill Length 5.0 mm
Combine Infill Every = 1 layers -
Turn the interior fill percentage down a lot. 15 to 30% is commonly used. If necessary, turn down the extrusion factor.
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Hi:
I have a complete configuration cube!
Z=18.2 width x 20 height
Y=20 width x 18.2 height
X=18.2 width x 18.2 heightI want to print fan_duct_40mmv2_fixed to put on the smart effector. It loads into S3d as X160.67, Y59.62 and Z33.29
I don't think those are correct dimensions and it says the scale is 2540.00%. S3D says it is too large to auto position when I click center and arrange. I have tried changing scaling in the past which usually results in a visible model with 0 file size and therefore doesn't print and object.
I've pulled v3 off thingiverse.
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How do I fix the widths that are coming in at 18.2mm?
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Check that you have entered the correct L parameter in the M665 command in config.g. It should be the length of the errors measured between bearing centres.
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To make small corrections to the X and Y scaling use the M579 command. But I suggest you use a larger calibration object for that.
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Thanks dc42.
The L parameter has not been changed throughout all that we have done. On four of the rods, it is 360.20. The other two rods are 360.21. Would it be better to have the two rods that are 360.21 on the same carriage?, or to place them opposite each other?
I will look into the M579 command. I am printing the cooling fan holder (V1) for the heated bed and I need the accuracy for the screw holes.
Thanks,
Tim -
It's best to have those two rods on the same carriage - although with such a small difference, it probably doesn't matter.
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Thanks. That was my thought so that is what I did.
My cooling fan for the hot end stopped during a print yesterday. (I hate crimp connectors.) Fan is fine, lost power. I didn't notice until the filament extruder started clicking and then I saw that no filament was being laid down.
I would rather not drill it out because I would likely damage / destroy the plastic tube. If I put the cooling fin assembly in boiling water, would the filament melt and flow out (or push out) of the tube?
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If it's PLA then with the nozzle at 100C, the heatsink cool and the Bowden tube removed, you should be able to pull the filament out of the hot end the way it went in, if it hasn't broken off already.
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Thanks, I will file that for the future. The filament broke just inside the tube when I was trying to remove it while I still had heat on. I don't have enough space around the filament to grab it with anything.
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I'm back up and running. I had a really decent filament coil inside the hotend before it got into the tube. Obviously, one cannot run a printer without a functioning cooling fan.
The X adjustment for the M579 worked out to 1.0185. Not only did that fix the spacing for the screw holes, it improved the printer quality in the corners.
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For my purposes, I consider this thread complete with very high satifaction!
Thanks
Tim -
Thank you!
