Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?

mindbender9

@danal said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

Resulting in this file:

; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator
; 10 points, 6 factors, probing radius: 105, probe offset (0, 0)
G28
M98 Pdeployprobe.g
G30 P0 X0.00 Y105.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P1 X90.93 Y52.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P2 X90.93 Y-52.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P3 X0.00 Y-105.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P4 X-90.93 Y-52.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P5 X-90.93 Y52.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P6 X0.00 Y52.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P7 X45.47 Y-26.25 Z-99999 H0
G30 P8 X-45.47 Y-26.25 Z-99999 H0
G30 P9 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S6
M98 Pretractprobe.g

That should give you better results with less manual work.

I don't have the files: deployprobe.g or retractprobe.g, so I'm getting errors when I try to auto-calibrate

mindbender9

@danal said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

To verify correct setting (and I'd try E96 first):

Remove filament from the hot end (i.e. heat it up and pull it out)

Remove the bowden tube below the extruder motor. (press the collet up and pull the tube down)

Load some filament into the extruder motor so that it just hangs out the bottom (because you removed the bottom tube in step (2)).

Mark the filament, with a marker or a piece of tape, EXACTLY at the bottom of the extruder. Don't let the collet fool you, it moves a mm or so... measure consistently.

Extrude 100mm of filament. Either with a control panel, or the web interface.

Measure, carefully, from the bottom of the extruder to your mark. Should be EXACTLY 100mm.

You can extrude and retract a couple of times, and measure, if you want to really verify.

Report back here if it is NOT 100mm measurement.

Three different tests show that (with E96) the extruder pushed out 100mm each time. Exactly. Thankfully.

Thanks for getting me the right values. This Anycubic Kossel Plus is all over the place everywhere else.

Danal

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

@danal said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

These are strange results. What would be causing them?

We MUST get G28 to work before anything else will work. Many other commands invoke G28 internally, including G32. This explains many, many, different symptoms you are seeing.

Do not adjust screws until G28 makes them touch the switches (endstops). Or, more properly, set them to roughly the middle of their travel, and only fine tune them after we get G28 working.

Can you post your "homedelta.g" please?

mindbender9

Hi @danal,

I’ll set the top screws to halfway like you recommended.

; homedelta.g

; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun May 13 2018 19:16:40
G91                        ; relative positioning
G1 S1 X282 Y282 Z282 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F1800 S2    ; go down a few mm
G1 S1 X10 Y10 Z10 F360     ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F6000               ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90                        ; absolute positioning
;G1 X0 Y0 F6000            ; move X+Y to the centre

Thanks

dc42

If the carriages don't always move all the way up to the top when you home the printer, then the problem is probably this line in homedelta.g:

G1 S1 X282 Y282 Z282 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)

The figure "282" is the maximum distance in mm that the carriages will be moved up during homing. You may need to increase it.

mindbender9

I’ve changed the homedelta.g to:

; homedelta.g

; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun May 13 2018 19:16:40
G91                        ; relative positioning
G1 S1 X290 Y290 Z290 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F1800 S2    ; go down a few mm
G1 S1 X10 Y10 Z10 F360     ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F6000               ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90                        ; absolute positioning
;G1 X0 Y0 F6000            ; move X+Y to the centre

Entering G28 now allows the screws (tightened halfway) to reach the endpoints.

What would be the next step to do?

(And thank you for your continued help)

Danal

Absolutely what David said. My NON-plus Z-height is 289 in the initial firmware (and its not powered up so I can't see the exact calibration number).

So, change G1 S1 X282 Y282 Z282 F1800 to something like G1 S1 X300 Y300 Z300 F1800

Then see if your G28 causes the screws to touch the switches. If it DOES, try another G32. If it does NOT, don't do anything else with the printer until we get that working...

Danal

Ah, our posts crossed.

Now it is OK to do a G32. If I recall, you are set up for manual probing, and are using paper, correct? If so, you can ignore those "deploy probe" errors.

And/or take the M98 lines out of bed.g.

Danal

This post is deleted!

mindbender9

@danal

Thanks for your help. I’ll do a G32 now.

Update: The repeated calibration attempts have gouged a deep enough line that the Anycubic printer heat bed sticker has been torn through. I would say that this printer isn't calibrated properly.

Do all delta printers go through this?

Danal

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

@danal

Do all delta printers go through this?

No... However, it can be a real struggle to get started with ANY printer from completely scratch.

For example, there are assumptions built into the documentation. One example, the entire sequence documented here:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer
assumes that the printer is homing (hitting the limit switches) correctly. Without that, NOTHING is 'safe'; bed strikes will occur. Are the words: "The printer MUST physically touch the home switches" written clearly anywhere? Not really...

The other big thing, that from your pictures and descriptions I think you may not have been doing: When commissioning a new printer, have your finger on the power switch, and hit it off INSTANTLY if you see something you don't like. Seriously, a power down can save your bed.

And... don't get discouraged. You are learning a HUGE amount about ALL printers, and there will be many AHA moments.

Last thought: In the grand scheme of things, an Anycubic replacement plastic bed sticker is fairly cheap. I've been through three on my AKL, even though I've never converted the controller board... so, no worries!

mindbender9

@danal - Thank you for explaining these things that a newcomer is unaware of - and I mean that. I really appreciate the time and patience you (and everyone) are putting in with me.

—Here’s what happened last night:

Test prints of a 1mm circle start off with the nozzle laying down filament for half the circle “skirt?” and scraping the bed for the other half, with filament being pushed and scattered all over the print area.

At roughly 5-10% of the way, the nozzle grinds into half of the circle itself and then lays down filament from 2-3mm above the bed for the other half for a ragged, stringy result. This implies that the bed is lopsided.

I’ve rescrewed the “clamps” that hold the bed in place, but it’s still lopsided.

Dumb question #1: How do I flatten the bed? Do I put shims in under the low side? Is the software supposed to compensate for the bed during calibrations? Not sure how to proceed with this.
Dumb question #2: What is the ideal height for a nozzle to be above the bed during printing? What should I aim for during a calibration? 1mm? 2mm? This is one of those “I should know but I don’t” questions.
Dumb question #3: What is the config-override.g file used for? Several people and sources suggest that I should delete the contents of this file if I’m having issues, but I haven’t done so unless things go really bad. Am I doing something wrong?
Dumb question #4: Do I have to perform a manual calibration before every print? By this, I mean the Auto Delta Calibration or (I think) G32. If I do a back to back print (all of which fail), the failing prints get worse in scale each time.
Dumb question #5: Is it wrong to do multiple manual G32’s? The amount of Z height I have to enter for each test point keeps increasing with every attempt.
For example, let’s say I have to adjust the first attempt by -5.5 on one particular endpoint. The next attempt on that same endpoint might be -26. Is this normal? What is happening here for the values to keep increasing or the nozzle to keep setting itself higher and higher?

Thanks again for the help and encouragement. I really appreciate all of this.

Danal

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

@danal - Thank you for explaining these things that a newcomer is unaware of - and I mean that. I really appreciate the time and patience you (and everyone) are putting in with me.

Question #1: How do I flatten the bed? Do I put shims in under the low side? Is the software supposed to compensate for the bed during calibrations? Not sure how to proceed with this.

Eventually, the combination of G32 and G29 will fix this. Just to confirm: Homing is now working, correct?

Question #2: What is the ideal height for a nozzle to be above the bed during printing? What should I aim for during a calibration? 1mm? 2mm? This is one of those “I should know but I don’t” questions.

The first layer works best with the nozzle roughly the thickness of a business card above the bed. For PLA. (Some filaments like to be 'squished' on and some like to be 'dropped' on. PLA likes business cards)

Question #3: What is the config-override.g file used for? Several people and sources suggest that I should delete the contents of this file if I’m having issues, but I haven’t done so unless things go really bad. Am I doing something wrong?

Several commands, like G32, only update things "in memory" and a power cycle will reset to whatever is in config.g

The M500 command really just writes (creates or updates) config_override.g). M501 reads it.

The "delete it" advice comes from all of us humans who look in config.g and FORGET that config_override.g exists !!

Dumb question #4: Do I have to perform a manual calibration before every print? By this, I mean the Auto Delta Calibration or (I think) G32. If I do a back to back print (all of which fail), the failing prints get worse in scale each time.

Not if the results are saved via an M500, and loaded via an M501 near the end of config.g. In theory, you should only need to do a G32 and/or G29 if something changes. Like you've removed the bed and replaced it, or changed nozzles, or similar.

Personally, I only run G32 M500 G29 when I've done maintenance, and/or when the first layer "just doesn't work" for some reason or another.

By the way, just like dogs can smell fear, 3D printers can smell both frustration and complacency. A printer that was working fine will just "be cranky" one day. Maybe it didn't get enough sleep, who knows...

Question #5: Is it wrong to do multiple manual G32’s? The amount of Z height I have to enter for each test point keeps increasing with every attempt.

You shouldn't have to enter anything, if you do an M500 to save. The Z Height (H on the M665 in config_override.g) may change a little up or down with each calibration. A few tenths. It should NOT increase after each one. Again checking a basic: Does G28 now cause all three screws to hit all three switches?

Thanks again for the help and encouragement. I really appreciate all of this.

No problem. We'll slay this dragon together. Obviously, I enjoy it!

Danal

Oh, and to clarify:

Inconsistently enough:

G32 (auto calibrate) requires an M500 to save and a M501 to load. The M501 is most often placed near the end of config.g.

G29 (mesh bed level) saves itself... but requires a G29 S1 to load. The G29 S1 is most often put in the start g-code script of the slicer (because several different things can turn it off, best be sure its on just before a print starts).

Danal

One more thought: You asked if you should wedge or shim the bed, and I kind of ignored the q. Here's the full answer:

A basic assumption check: Be sure the frame of the printer is "Square". Yeah, I know, it is a triangle!!! Seriously, do the best you can to be sure the towers are 90 degrees to the base and the top, the base is flat, etc, etc.

This does include doing the best you can to get the bed 90 degrees to all three towers. If the base extrusions are flat, and the towers are dead upright, this should happen naturally... but it is ALL worth checking.

Even when G32 and G29 are fully working, they will work best in a square and true set of mechanics.

.

When I did the final assembly and alignment of my BFD (Big Fast Delta), I used a granite slab to do the final alignment of the bottom frame and the top frame. I didn't trust any tables or the floor. (Yeah, I just happened to have access to a granite "flat", machine shop quality, to use for the final assembly).

mindbender9

Hi @Danal ,

I'm able to home successfully now that I've raised the values higher.

A basic assumption check: Be sure the frame of the printer is "Square". Yeah, I know, it is a triangle!!! Seriously, do the best you can to be sure the towers are 90 degrees to the base and the top, the base is flat, etc, etc.

So if the bed is lopsided, then something is not aligned right on my delta? Or the three pillars are not set well? How would I be able to check this, because everything seems rigid?
I still cannot print a base layer - only half is possible and the nozzle drags along the bed which prevents filament from being laid down.

Barracuda72

Seems that you have still some mechanical Problems with your frame.
As others stated before..make sure that all angles are near perfection. Put the Printer on flattest surface and check if the printbed is at same angle as the frame. On thingiverse there are some bed holder that works good. _( Prob..how to print without a working printer? )
Manual calibration could be PITA. Tried it on my Anycubic Kossel too before i upgraded to a duet. If Money is not that big prob, get the smart effector ( working with it is like heaven) or if you want a cheap solution, get a foil switch. Its cheap and works quite well to do a autocalibration and make a highmap. Before i used that switch i tried BLTouch and the original Anycubic switch ( both expensive crap..Delta and a z-probe with a XYZ Offset dont work good)
The autocalibration and bedmesh can only compensate mechanical errors to some degree..its not a simsalabim magic wand

Danal

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

So if the bed is lopsided, then something is not aligned right on my delta? Or the three pillars are not set well? How would I be able to check this, because everything seems rigid?

Loosen the bolts/nuts on the "corners" (really triangles) and move the frame to be more square as you tighten them.

Literally use a "Carpenter's Square" or a "Try Square". This may be where American English and British English confuse things a little, so here are some pictures:

0_1527575176226_2cb59a93-7c46-4326-9c61-11b9dbf29fd4-image.png 0_1527575211725_82df1121-ccb3-4541-be86-572fff967c39-image.png
0_1527575250159_3e7cc0bf-5ba6-435f-bf54-2b8e0378a2b4-image.png

dc42

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

So if the bed is lopsided, then something is not aligned right on my delta? Or the three pillars are not set well? How would I be able to check this, because everything seems rigid?

Are you sure the bed is lopsided? If you have an engineer's or carpenters's square, use it to check whether the bed is at right angles to the towers.

I still cannot print a base layer - only half is possible and the nozzle drags along the bed which prevents filament from being laid down.

That may simply mean that your endstop corrections are not set correctly. Calibration (G32) will fix that.

mindbender9

@dc42 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

Are you sure the bed is lopsided? If you have an engineer's or carpenters's square, use it to check whether the bed is at right angles to the towers.

Am I supposed to add shims under the bed? There doesn't appear to be a way to raise/lower the bed mechanically with the Anycubic Kossel Plus. It's just lopsided on one of the three sides.

I still cannot print a base layer - only half is possible and the nozzle drags along the bed which prevents filament from being laid down.

That may simply mean that your endstop corrections are not set correctly. Calibration (G32) will fix that.

I performed a manual calibration (G32) and the nozzle did a HARD nose bury into the bed when a test print was attempted. It tore up the blue painters tape that I had on the bed and the test 1mm circle print was a mess. Half of it was missing (the side where the tape was pulled up) and the other half was stringy and a mess.

This is not working.