Material Order of Preference for Machine Components?
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another option for reinforced filaments is c/f nylon. I use the 3dxtech version. With a tg of 105 and an hdt of 102, which is inline with abs and far higher than cf/petg but with tensile and flexural modulus almost identical to cf/petg . Ive got pretty good stiffness out of this material by making it a little thicker than would be out of PLA
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I printed most of my DBOT parts in PETG and some in PLA.
But After some time the PLA cracked and I reprinted them in PETG.The DBOT has been running hard for over 1 year
My VOTE is for PETG
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I should have said that I've been running the D-Bot reasonably hard and have racked up over 100 builds (range from 0.5 - 7hrs) since last September not including many multiples of short test coupon builds and not yet suffered a component failure. Most parts are PETG. Two remaining PLA parts which are simply stepper mounted pulley covers.
Beginning focus on machine optimisation and reducing issues like ghosting as far as possible. PETG is currently my default material for modified components and generally work with a minimum of 5mm sections with ribbing to reduce flex and unwanted oscillations as far as practical.
Alas demands on the machine have meant that I've been running PLA, ABS, TPU64D, and PETG rather than really being able to focus on machine evaluation, material optimisation, or self education properly!
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Also, keep in mind that not every PLA or PETG has the same properties. While, in general, PETG will be less brittle than PLA, I've had some PETG that creates prints that are noticeably more flexible than PETG from different manufacturers.
Also, there are a number of modified PLAs out there that have increased flexibility (similar to PLA) as well as some modified PLA material that can withstand more heat than PETG after annealing in an oven.
John
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How's the dimensional/geometric stability of the PLA through heat treatment? I'm guessing this triggers come cross linking in the material?
Running 3 P3Steel with Duet 2. Duet 3 on the shelf looking for a suitable machine. One first generation Duet in a Logo/Turtle style robot!
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Have you considered aluminum? It's cheap and easy to make very rigid, square motor mounts out of rectangular tubing. All you need is a saw and a drill and you can make a one in less time than it takes to draw it in CAD. Using aluminum helps cool the motor, too
The mount can be fixed to the printer's frame from either the sides or the bottom/top using t-nuts, carriage bolts, or whatever hardware makes sense for your printer's design. Smaller motors can be mounted inside the tube or outside, depending on how you are going to attach the mount to the printer's frame.
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Another reason to use aluminium motor mounts is this extract from the wiki:
"Note: it is highly recommended that the stepper motor casings be grounded, especially in belt-driven printers. Otherwise, motion of the belts causes static charge to build up, which eventually arcs over to the windings. If the motors are screwed to a metal frame, grounding the frame is sufficient."
So really, with a plastic mount, we ought to run an earth wire from the motor body to the frame (assuming the frame itself is grounded). I've never got around to it myself, (neither has Mr Prusa et al) but according to the Wiki we should.
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@deckingman I actually went ahead and did that on my build. Everything is properly earthed. Can't say it really made a noticeable difference, but I guess that's the point. You won't notice until sparks fly, then it's too late.
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I have been using TitanX from Formfutura with excellent success, for both large and small prints. The parts are structurally sound and i have even used this product for components on my printer for both stepper mounts extruder mounts (direct drive) as well as linear rail mounts. There has been no compromise with the function or deformation of the parts. My printer is enclosed with chamber temperature sitting around 50C. There is near zero deformation when cooling the part.
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@doctrucker said in Material Order of Preference for Machine Components?:
How's the dimensional/geometric stability of the PLA through heat treatment? I'm guessing this triggers come cross linking in the material?
With regular PLA, it is poor. The only modified PLA I've used is MakerGeeks Raptor PLA. At least in my experience, very good dimensional stability except on thin, flat pieces. When dimensional stability is important to me I'll print two pieces, anneal one, and compare it to the non-annealed pieces.
https://www.makergeeks.com/collections/raptor-series-pla
There are other modified PLAs out there, but I haven't tried them.
