Missing Steps - Cant Print SpreadCycle StealthChop tuning help
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@martinnyhc said in Missing Steps - Cant Print SpreadCycle StealthChop tuning help:
@droftarts 14HS17-0504S
Those are a terrible choice of motors for a 3D printer. I am very surprised that the Voron design page suggests them. IMO they have made a big mistake. With such a high inductance, it is not at all surprising that the TMC2209 drivers are having problems driving them quietly in spreadCycle mode. I am surprised that the TMC2660 drivers on the Duet WiFi didn't have trouble with them too. The Voron 2 design recommends completely different stepper motors with lower inductance, so it is not comparable.
Even the kit of Voron 0 motors I found at https://hobby-store.co.uk/stepper-motors/nema-14-stepper-motor-kit-for-voron-0.html had better motors then that (14mH, almost 50% lower inductance).
I presume you are supplying 24V power to the Duet 3 Mini. With those motors, you have no hope at all at 12V.
In your homing sequence, are you executing the correct stealthChop tuning procedure?
If you are already executing the correct tuning procedure, then here are some suggestions:
- Reduce the maximum speed further, e.g. to 6000mm/min.
- It's possible that you may be able to make spreadCycle mode quieter by adjusting the hysteresis parameters.
- Try to find another Voron 0 user with the same motors as you and TMC2209 drivers, who isn't having problems with them. Find out what speed and accelerations settings they are using, also the TMC2209 register settings. Then replicate those settings.
- Failing that, change the motors for higher current/lower inductance ones.
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@dc42 said in Missing Steps - Cant Print SpreadCycle StealthChop tuning help:
Those are a terrible choice of motors for a 3D printer. I am very surprised that the Voron design page suggests them.
For what it's worth, the current recommendation for Voron 0 steppers is 14HS20-1504S which are much better at 3.8mH. The old motors work fine on a Duet2 Maestro but only in Stealthchop mode, they sound awful in Spreadcycle (now I know why!). I don't believe there were many choices commonly available when the printer was designed.
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This was the default config for V0's back when they were announced over a year ago.
Now the 0.1 was announced and steppers got upgraded to a bigger version (35STH48-1684AHVRN).
That said, the default config assumed using an SKR E3 mini that was running 2209s. @MartinNYHC - try checking the default config for the SKR on voron's github. I've been using that combo of SKR E3 mini v1.2 with those exact steppers - it worked I did have to bring stealthchop_threshold down to 0 to make them quiet, but otherwise, the printer worked just fine.
Maybe that would give you some starting points for the setup on a duet. I'll be in the same boat soon once I get to the rebuilding part of my V0
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OK, did a lot of tests and the only settings without layer shifts is
M569 P0|1 D3
Steppers are quite loud but at least it's working. Will order some new steppers.
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I dont know if it helps but I am installing reprap on a SKR2 board with tmc 2209 and I have same issue, specially on my bed which runs on a 0.9 degree motor, beside m extrusions are not consistence either. you guessed it right, there is a 0.9 degree motor on extruder. now good thing about SKR 2 is that I can go back and fort with marlin and reprap and compare. this is definitely firmware issue. Reprap runs these motors much quitter and cooler while marlin runs warm and a little noisy. but marlin runs very solid and sound is not really that bad. this tells me reprap and marlin use different pwm settings on stealthchop and marlin made some sacrifice in noise to gain some stability.
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@sinole Are you sure you are running the steppers at the same current setting with Marlin and RRF? What values are you using in each?
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@gloomyandy I divide my rated motor current by 1.414 and I use that number * 0.8, I have posted same question on your Github btw. for example for my 17HM19-2004S1 motor which is rated at 2A I use 1.25 A
in firmware.
dc42 says that 2209 have issue with 0.9 degree motors because they have high inductance, but this motor have less inductance than some 1.8 motors , that is why I chose it.I don't have access to my config at the moment but I want to post it for you and I appreciate if you take a look at it.
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@sinole You didn't answer my question though. What current settings did you use in Marlin and what did you use in RRF?
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@gloomyandy the current setting that you told me seems to be working better, motors runs a bit hot though. I don't think my z motors were really designed for 1 amp per LDO datasheet when I bought them, hey get scalding hot even when I set them at 450 on reprap.
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@sinole If you are not getting missed steps on Z then just lower the current and/or set the motor standstill current using M917.
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