Da Vinci pro 1.0
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Upgrading your Davinci will allow you to print with any filament on the market, this guide will show you what you need to put your Davinci headaches behind you and print reliably up to 400C as well as give you more accurate prints and a smoother, quieter printer and best of all? accurate bed leveling and bed warp compensation.
The DuetWifi itself was really simple, I just marked and drilled 4 holes then put nylon standoffs in the holes. If i was to do it over again i would have mounted the paneldue next to the lcd with ribbon cable… i had to cut a hole in the frame for the green paneldue to fit properly. But nice thing is SD card is now front accessible right below the lcd above the door.
The wiring is even simpler, from the power supply you group the old bed heater power wires (from psu) and use those for the Duet primary power and thats it. Then you reuse the bed heater wires (black ones to bed) plugging them into the bed heater output of the duet. I reused the stepper, led light, bed heater and endstop wires but got rid of everything else. For the hotend heater i just ran the e3d hotend wire all the way back to the duet then cut the wire near the hotend and installed molex minifit jr for quick connection.
To hook up the stepper motors, each motor has 4 wires, there is two pairs here, to find which ones are pairs test with an Ohm meter for continuity then put two and two together on each side of the connector. If the motors go in reverse then switch the pairs to the other side. For the endstops, the new endstops are labeled so it is easy to do.
For the fan and the PT100 sensor i just used spare E3D wires that have quick connect minifit jrs. and ran them all the way back to the duet. The LED you plug into a spare PWM controllable fan output (yes the led is three wire, just twist the two hots together) being controllable you are able to program it in macros to turn off when a print is done or when to turn on etc.
Basically to sum it up:
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E3d hotend
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Pt100 temp sensor
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DuetWifi or ethernet
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Pt100 daughter board
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Duet connector kit and cables
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PanelDue
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DC42 mini IR probe and cables
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Nylon standoffs for PCB (amazon)
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Some extra wire with connectors from e3d
I do highly recommend that you print off that hotend carriage or have it printed for you if you cannot. Buy yourself some IGUS bearings for it as well (do not use metal LMU88) these are the best bet and make swapping out hotends for things like lasers, dual extrusion etc a breaze since you will just disconnect the wires and pop off the carriage instead of having to dismantle your printer.
https://www.amazon.com/Igus-RJZM-01-08-DryLin-Straight-Bearing/dp/B00QZ7YJ54I will be making a modified fan shroud soon that will allow room for DC42s mini IR probe for bed leveling (i highly recommend you get it as well, i do not have bed leveling issues anymore). You will also need to print the modified E3d fan shroud that has tabs for the mini IR probe, then the mods in my makes list can be found under things that ive built on thingiverse under username MajorIO (requires some parts from amazon like ball bearings, screws, igus bearings etc). If you cant print them yourself then use an online print company to print the parts for you. Dont use the printed bearings use the igus ones… im going to take my printer apart again to install Igus.
I used nylon standoffs to mount the PanelDue and the Duetwifi, Also most odds and ends like nylon standoff kits and bearings are available on Amazon prime
If you dont want to cut a hole in your frame then you will also have to order the ribbon cable (you will need to ask DC42 on the forums which cable for the panel due to lcd). If you want to use the front panel SD card reader on the panel due then you will also need to order the sd card cable. If you are in the USA you can get most of this stuff from Filastruder.com for shorter shipping times
The two gotchas:
The davinci endstop sensors do not work with the Duet, I bought some on amazon (red pcb optical sensors) but they do not line up the same when mounting. For the Z axis it was as simple as bending the metal tab so it would align in correctly. For the Y axis i took a drill and drilled out some of the plastic in the mount so the different wire connector could pass through. For the X axis i needed to mount the sensor so it was angled to work.
As you can see in the photo, i had to cut a hole in the frame for the green paneldue to pass through. You can avoid this by connecting the paneldue with a ribbon cable and mounting it off to the side of the LCD. Cutting the hole in the plastic cover for the LCD was pretty simple using a dremmel and grinding disc. If you do not want to attempt it, you can always have an external enclosure printed… DC42 has one available on thingiverse
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I will update the post later with config files
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Thanks for the write up! Can you post photos of the original endstop sensors, so that i can see whether it might be possible to modify them to work with the Duet?
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Thanks for the write up! Can you post photos of the original endstop sensors, so that i can see whether it might be possible to modify them to work with the Duet?
Thank you, I threw the old ones away maybe timsamsony can supply photos. There is absolutely no markings on them and I tried wiring in all directions. I figured it must be a voltage issue.
I am sure there will be more people interested in doing this conversion as it applies to Davinci Pro 1.0 and Davinci 1.0/1.0A and possibly others. Any chance you want to add it to the wiki after modifying the parts about the ribbon cable with your knowledge
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Thanks so much for the write-up. I have moved this to the " My Duet WiFi-controlled machine" part of the forum as hopefully more people can see it!
For now I have linked it from the tutorial page of the wiki:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Tutorials#Setup -
Thanks for the write up! Can you post photos of the original endstop sensors, so that i can see whether it might be possible to modify them to work with the Duet?
Here are some pictures of a da VInci 1.0 Pro stock end stop. This one is from the Y axis, but it looks like all three axes use the same.
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Looks like a pretty standard IR emitter/detector combo - power, ground and input should be doable.
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They don't trigger on the Duet, I tried switching the wires around too. His at least are marked, mine were blank only traces.
Thanks bdwalker
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Thanks for the photos. Unless there is a resistor hidden in the plastic, that optical endstop needs a resistor of about 150 to 330 ohms added in series with the connection that feeds 3.3V from the centre pin of the Duet endstop connector to the IR emitter. If 3.3V is fed directly to the IR emitter then it will burn out. With the resistor and the correct connections, it should work.
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Thanks for the photos. Unless there is a resistor hidden in the plastic, that optical endstop needs a resistor of about 150 to 330 ohms added in series with the connection that feeds 3.3V from the centre pin of the Duet endstop connector to the IR emitter. If 3.3V is fed directly to the IR emitter then it will burn out. With the resistor and the correct connections, it should work.
Just for sake of learning, how would someone determine that requirement when looking at a simple PCB like this one. I bought myself a starter kit for arduino so I can begin learning these types of things but I am not there yet.
So far as much as I know is how to follow traces and use multimeter for testing and some basic soldering skills
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I updated the origional post to include a link to pre-loaded igus bearings for 8mm shafts. This is in USA, they can be had cheaper in Europe… you will want the pre-loaded ones like these as the full bearings need a compression fit to work properly
https://www.amazon.com/Igus-RJZM-01-08-DryLin-Straight-Bearing/dp/B00QZ7YJ54
Now we just need a good left and right y carriage that works with these bearings.
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Thanks for the photos. Unless there is a resistor hidden in the plastic, that optical endstop needs a resistor of about 150 to 330 ohms added in series with the connection that feeds 3.3V from the centre pin of the Duet endstop connector to the IR emitter. If 3.3V is fed directly to the IR emitter then it will burn out. With the resistor and the correct connections, it should work.
Just for sake of learning, how would someone determine that requirement when looking at a simple PCB like this one. I bought myself a starter kit for arduino so I can begin learning these types of things but I am not there yet.
So far as much as I know is how to follow traces and use multimeter for testing and some basic soldering skills
The main part of the black component is a slotted opto switch. The switch comprises an infrared LED on one side of the slot and a phototransistor on the other side. Like any LED, the one in a slotted opto switch needs a series resistor to control the current through it. I don't see any resistor in the photo. So I suspect that the original main board for that printer includes the resistors. The Duet (like other general-purpose 3D printer control boards) is designed to be compatible with a wide range of homing sensors of different types, so it doesn't include a resistor in series with the 3.3V pin.
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I know this is an old thread, but I figured I would post to it in case anyone else wants to modify their DaVinci with a DuetWifi. I can confirm that adding a 300ohm resistor in series with the "A" pin (anode…3.3V) on the DaVinci allows it to work perfectly. I have the original DaVinci endstops working with the resistor.
The AGC pins on the endstop are A is 3.3V, G is ground and C is the Stop signal. It turns out the pinout was also way off, but easy enough to figure out by probing both sides with a DMM.
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Thanks for letting us know.
