Not connecting

Danal

Can I just copy the files off the original SD card then paste them onto a new one? Or would I just be copying/pasting whatever is already corrupted?

I see no evidence (so far) that the SD card is corrupted. Port not showing is firmware (in flash on the board), not the SD card.

I just can't see the port in YAT

Therefore, you did this, from the guide:

If the port still doesn't appear on the PC

If neither port is shown, then the Duet may be faulty or it may not have valid firmware installed. With USB power applied, erase the firmware. Only erase the firmware if your board is completely unresponsive, or if instructed to do so by Duet3D. On older boards do this by holding down the Erase button for at least 1 second, then press the Reset button. On newer boards there is no Erase button; so fit a jumper across the Erase pins, then connect to USB for a few seconds, then disconnect from USB, remove the jumper and connect to USB again. You may have to do this a couple of times if the Duet does not appear in the Device Manager.

The Bossa Port should appear in Device Manager; if it does then you can upload firmware using SAM-BA or Bossa/bossac 1.8 as described in section "Fall-back procedure #3" in Installing and Updating Firmware.

And then you did Fall-Back #3.

Which part of that did or did not work?

Corexy

Sorry mate, busy with work and time difference etc. Thanks for the reply.

No I haven't tried that yet, as I was hoping there might be something else to try before I went there.

I've done this procedure before, so I'll clean off the bench and do it when I have time to get into it.

Couple of questions....

Do I need to disconnect everything from the motherboard first? I can unplug the paneldue easily and make sure not to turn on the main power while the computer is connected, but do I need to disconnect all the rest (steppers/sensors/etc)?
Once I reflash the basic firmware, will I need to upgrade through all the old versions, or will it accept the latest duet firmware?

Phaedrux

@Corexy

I've once done a firmware flash with everything still connected without issue, but I'm not sure if that's just me being lucky. I would think best practice would be to disconnect everything. However if VIN is off, most things like motors and heaters won't work anyway, so i'm pretty sure it's safe.

You can flash straight to whatever version you want, with the proviso that your wifi server and DWC versions will also need to be compatible with the firmware version you choose. This may require some file renaming or IAP file inclusions depending on what version you're going from and to. Read the upgrade notes and typically the required files would be included alongside the firmware release itself.

Corexy

I went out this morning, cleaned off the bench and setup the laptop, only to have the thing start up like nothing's happened.

This is the second time it's done this, both straight after huge electrical storms our area is well known for.

It seems if it sits switched off completely for a week after having its brains scrambled with shock therapy, it'll come good after that.

Thanks for the replies and advice.

droftarts

@Corexy Maybe a surge protector would be useful?!

Ian

Corexy

@droftarts said in Not connecting:

@Corexy Maybe a surge protector would be useful?!

Ian

Yep, got a great big one wired into the power box by an electrician, but apparently not enough for sensitive electronics.

I've got a big Liebert UPS battery bank that usually acts as a second line of defense, but it needs new batteries and funds are a little tight for that right now.

Corexy

Can't believe it, the bloody thing's doing it again.

No surges or whatever this time (AFAIK), it just shut down in the middle of the day between prints, and no longer connects or knows its name. I'm back to "my duet".

I've copied all the files onto a couple of different SD cards, no difference.

So I guess I'm back to the firmware flash?

dc42

Are you still able to connect via USB? If so, run M39 to check the SD card status.

Corexy

@dc42 said in Not connecting:

Are you still able to connect via USB? If so, run M39 to check the SD card status.

Hi David,

I'll pull the covers off tonight and try that. How am I running M39 via USB? YAT/Pronterface?

Even this morning it all started up and connected, but now it's doing it again, so this does seem to be an intermittent fault. I can't imagine how a wiring fault could do this as nothing's running on startup (?).

It's raining heavily for days here, and despite supposedly living in a first world country, for some reason our wifi really hates this type of weather.

dc42

You can indeed use YAT or Pronterface to connect via USB and send M39.

One possible reason for the problem is an poor joint between one of the spills at the back of the SD socket and the PCB, which is something we've seen before. If the SD card isn't being read then the network won't get enabled.

Corexy

@dc42 said in Not connecting:

You can indeed use YAT or Pronterface to connect via USB and send M39.

One possible reason for the problem is an poor joint between one of the spills at the back of the SD socket and the PCB, which is something we've seen before. If the SD card isn't being read then the network won't get enabled.

OK, thank you for letting me know about that. It certainly would explain the intermittent nature of the fault.

What is a "spill"? A solder joint? Would I be able to touch it up with air solder, or should I just grab the latest version board as mine was one of the very first? I really don't mind as I've had a good run with this one, and if there's a known issue in early versions I'd rather move on.

I've stooped to ordering an Ender 3 in the meantime lol, just to keep a spare printer handy.

Corexy

I'm really at a loss now, and could use some advice.

I cannot find the Duet via USB on my computer, despite having done it before.

I've got 2 boards here, a V1.0 and a V1.01. I bought them both back in the day, and recently fitted the newer version to my printer. Both are showing 3.3/5.5v lights on, and the DIAG led is also on permanently as I hit the erase/reset buttons. Both played up in exactly the same way, not connecting to wifi and not starting up correctly, which led me to where I am now. There is no tone when plugging in the USB cable, and no sign of the board in device manager/bossa/yat.

I've checked my USB port/cable by transferring pictures with my phone. All worked well with a tone on plug in/out.

Bossa and Yat are not detecting a port at all, yet my other devices plug in and work fine. I've done the firmware flash with Bossa before and it went straight forward.

If there's any known issues with the earlier boards, it would be better to know and replace it than to keep chasing my arse in circles over this one. I don't see any further steps that could be taken in the instructions other than to seen it back to the supplier...is there anything I can do before that?

I'd really appreciate some help here, and if a new board is the best way to go, so be it.

Phaedrux

@Corexy try a usb hub

Corexy

@Phaedrux said in Not connecting:

@Corexy try a usb hub

Mate while I appreciate your advice I just don't know what you mean by that. Won't that just plug into the USB port on my computer anyway?

While I very much like the features of the Duet wifi, it's hardly been plug and play from day one, and I've got money out for 2 of these boards for one printer, and while they've been good when working they've certainly had minds of their own.

I would appreciate it if one of the staff could answer my questions and give clearer step by step instructions. It's always been confusing but at least they used to try more to help.

I appreciate the help I've been given, but these wiki's aren't enough...are there any staff out there who can help in plain english??

Phaedrux

@Corexy said in Not connecting:

Won't that just plug into the USB port on my computer anyway?

Yes. We've just had another person post a very similar problem that was resolved by using a usb hub. I don't pretend to know why, I'm just providing a suggestion to try.

Corexy

@Phaedrux said in Not connecting:

@Corexy said in Not connecting:

Won't that just plug into the USB port on my computer anyway?

Yes. We've just had another person post a very similar problem that was resolved by using a usb hub. I don't pretend to know why, I'm just providing a suggestion to try.

Of course I appreciate your help, and am not getting snippy. I'm just a little frustrated that there's little/no comment from staff, and we're all out here second guessing.

As it goes I've got a USB hub here...no difference other than it didn't connect at all. On my lead that works, one board makes the connect/disconnect noise over and over and doesn't seem to be responding to YAT commands. The other just won't connect at all.

Maybe the staff could answer me.... is there a known problem with the earlier boards, and if so will I have less trouble if I just buy a new one? It would be nice if I could just get a reply on that one.

dc42

Do you have a PanelDue or other device drawing power from the 5V rail? Some USB ports can't provide enough power for that. A powered USB hub should though.
Does your Duet WiFi have an Erase button or an Erase jumper? If it has the jumper, try powering up and connecting to USB with that jumper installed. That worked yesterday for someone else. If that gets you the Bossa port, then load Bossa, browse to the file, check the required 3 boxes, then remove the Erase jumper before you press Write.

If it has the Erase button, then connect to the PC via USB, press and hold Erase for at least a second, then press Reset briefly, and see if that makes the port appear.

Corexy

@dc42 said in Not connecting:

Do you have a PanelDue or other device drawing power from the 5V rail? Some USB ports can't provide enough power for that. A powered USB hub should though.

Does your Duet WiFi have an Erase button or an Erase jumper? If it has the jumper, try powering up and connecting to USB with that jumper installed. That worked yesterday for someone else. If that gets you the Bossa port, then load Bossa, browse to the file, check the required 3 boxes, then remove the Erase jumper before you press Write.

If it has the Erase button, then connect to the PC via USB, press and hold Erase for at least a second, then press Reset briefly, and see if that makes the port appear.

Thank you David,

I have 2 boards, the V1.0 and V1.01. Both have the button not jumper. The 1.0 worked for over 2 years before playing up, and I replaced it with the 1.01 which played up within 3 months.

The 1.0 has actually reflashed via Bossa, but it won't stay connected or talk to YAT or Pronterface (it repeatedly connects/disconnects to the USB). The 1.01 won't connect to Bossa even...nothing, has the DIAG light on continuously..

Again, I'm not too badly fussed about buying a new board if it's got all the bugs out and will plug up to my existing setup without too much trouble. It's not like I'm asking for warranty, it's been a couple of years.

I also don't mind sending these old boards to you for checking if that's of interest.

To be honest I just want my printer back up, as I use it a lot.

**EDIT

Sorry, I'm doing the connection with the paneldue fully unplugged and I've tested the USB port/lead by transferring pics from my phone to the computer. I did disable all the USB power saving settings in the computer as well.

I'm not sure I've got a powered USB hub, but I could power the one that did load bossa via a phone charger and see if the wifi connects?

Corexy

Bit further along...

Cleared all my com ports and reinstalled my drivers.

One of the boards is showing up as a bossa port, the other is completely non responsive.

With the board that is connecting, the firmware flash fails straight after I click write and it shuts down Bossa. I tried it with Sam-Ba as well, and it just stops at 1%.

I have downloaded this firmware: Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin

It's the latest, and I've got it extracted and saved on my desktop, name exactly as above. Is there any name change or anything like that required?

I've found another post and mention of bypassing the USB port with a custom cable...surely that's a bit drastic??

I'm really looking for help here chaps. Extensive searching has shown this is a rare enough problem but has happened before. I'm thinking of trying a powered usb hub next, but I'm clutching at straws. There's something at play here that might be a little unusual, I could really use some help.

**PS. I'd really like those couple of people who marked me down over this post to come on, name yourself and explain the reason. I'm actually not very confrontational, and I went back through the post to see what happened to offend. At very worst I might have sounded a bit terse, but it's not like I went nuts. Maybe a look at the dates will show how long this has gone on for.

droftarts

@Corexy The majority of replies on this thread are from myself, @Phaedrux and @dc42, and we're all 'official' Duet3D support. We've discussed your issue off-list too, to try and resolve what might be causing this, but are equally baffled. I did say back on the 25th Jan that it might be time to look for faults on the boards.

For the unresponsive v1.01 board, it's possibly a processor failure (possibly due to over voltage or shorting), but could be a shorted/broken USB port, stuck/shorted reset switch, along with erased firmware (DIAG light on). With everything disconnected, and SD card removed, plug in USB solely and hold your finger on the main processor. Does it get hot? You should know after 30 seconds if it does. If not, inspect the board for shorts, particularly around the reset switch and on the legs of the main processor. @dc42 suggested looking at the 'spills' (yes, solder joints) on the back of the SD card. Post good quality, hi-res images of the back and front of the board; forum users are particularly keen-eyed! I'd probably consider replacing the USB port if the processor doesn't get hot, and/or reflow joints around the SD card holder and WiFi module, but that may make no difference.

On the somewhat working v1.0 board, it maybe a floating pin (poorly soldered/dry joint) or faulty/failing component, but could also be a USB socket issue. Does that processor heat up? Most of the above could apply to that, too.

Are these boards more unreliable than the current v1.04 boards? Probably not. There is more protection built into current boards (fuses and a few minor component changes), but nothing major; see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Hardware_Overview#Section_PCB_revision_history for changes. I still run one of the prototype Duet WiFi v0.10 with white PCB on my main printer! There has been the odd manufacturing hiccup, but mainly that's failing voltage regulators or poor hand soldering of through-hole components, and gets picked up pretty quickly.

Could your environment be responsible for failures? Possibly. I think you said in a previous thread about lighting strikes, and your use of surge protectors; it's possible voltage spikes are getting through and killing the board. Dirt and/or metal particles contaminating the board can cause shorts. I've seen dead insects cause shorts, too, though usually on higher voltage! Short circuits through poor mounting are a fairly common failure as well.

If you're not in a position to test the boards further, or make repairs, maybe someone in the community can help. See https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13875/community-repairs where a number of forum members have offered to repair boards, depending on your location.

Hope that helps.

Ian