Ender 3 Pro configuration
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The Y and Z motors do not get that hot using 700-800, but the X motor gets extremely hot. I can hold my hand on the back of the X motor for 2 seconds or so and then I have to let go. I have checked belts and everything else. 600 Seems to work great. It still gets hot, but not 800 HOT!
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thats strange as the x and y should be the same motors.
have you measured the resistance of the phase for both x and y motors? could be a production issue. -
@veti I will check on it later today.
Do anyone know if I can use the Ender 3 Pro display with the duet?Edit. Nevermind. Found out by searching 12864.
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with the duet maestro yes. you need another cable for the second exp and swap the plastic housing of exp1 and exp2 around. and connect those to the maestro
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@veti said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:
with the duet maestro yes. you need another cable for the second exp and swap the plastic housing of exp1 and exp2 around. and connect those to the maestro
When I was looking to do this, there was very little, if any, documentation on how to do this. It was exceedingly frustrating as I was probably doing it quite early on. I would have like to do this because I gave my maestro away because I just said "f*** this!" and bought a wifi.
I have an issue with my printer now, since the SD card got wiped, that is making the nozzle crash into the bed and it is exceedingly frustrating.
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first check that your probe/endstop triggers using
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M119_Get_Endstop_Statusthen see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe -
@veti said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:
first check that your probe/endstop triggers using
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M119_Get_Endstop_Statusthen see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probeI suspect it has to do with the calibration of the z probe because it homes perfectly, the z end stop is at the top for this reason and I use the BLTouch strictly just to mesh the bed.
It is when I try to mesh the bed with the DWC that it just drives right into the bed, it did the first time, now I know it will happen as I tell it to stop 50 or 25 mm away from the bed, wait there for a couple moments, then go to the bed mesh. I am going to recalibrate the z probe after I watch this OpenAI live symposium:)
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Hi guys. Back again with some more issues.
On the stock Ender 3 Pro board I never encountered stringing. Not once.
Now I have extreme stringing issues and blobs all over the place.
What I have done so far:
- Calibrated extrusion.
- Tried different extrusion distances.
- Tried different print speeds.
- Motor mA from 500- 900.
- Changed nozzle. (Not clogged)
- Changed tubing. No difference capricorn/stock.
- Changed couplings.
- Tried temps from 190-220.
- Used 4 different PLA filaments from 3 different makers. Green, red, black and white.
- More/less tension on x and y belt.
Edit: My wild guess is that this is something slicer related.
Edit 2: Cura = Extreme blobs and medium stringing. Slic3er = No blobs, but extreme stringing. -
We'd need to see your config.g and your slicer profile to get an idea of what to change.
Try this cura profile. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2nk6szy3ag97lsj/Ender3Profile.curaprofile?dl=0
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Hi. Thanks. My setup is based on the settings @PaulHew posted earlier. I have only changed motor mA, z height and the heaters resistance.
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R4700
I will post my Cura profile first thing in the morning.
I will try that profile.
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@veti with my “cheap” multimeter the two motors match up. They’re roughly the same.
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@Phaedrux Which Cura version do the profile come from? I get a "Sucsessfully imported Cura profile" but it doesn't appaer in my profile list. I am trying to upload my Cura profile, but I only got iCloud.
Edit: Didn't know version 4 was out. Updated to 4 and I was able to import the profile. Test printing now.
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https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y_DvW1XYmBW7zMpCKuLv6_RJBqDAOi8L Here is my last profile.
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In my experience of printing PLA, blobs are caused by insufficient retraction distance, and stringing is caused by extrusion temperature being too high or retraction being too slow.
Why did you choose those thermistor parameters?
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
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@baesjerker said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:
@dc42 I found a video on YouTube. He used those settings. When I tried resistance settings @PaulHew uses, the hot end and bed didn’t get hot enough. What do you think would be best to use here?
Have you tried this: M305 P1 T100000 B4148 C2.117e-7
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@dc42 said in Ender 3 Pro configuration:
M305 P1 T100000 B4148 C2.117e-7
I will try right away. Thanks.
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With those settings the extruder motor is skipping and the black filament i am using now seems to be really thin looking.
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@baesjerker Make sure filament is Dry, filament is extremely hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air EASILY. Best to make a dry box for it, I use I think tupperware containers, large ones (10 or 20 gallon) They are air tight, then I throw an Evadry (Amazon or Costco I think also sells them) reusable humidity absorber in there will my filament. If there is any moisture in your filament, due to the temperature of the nozzle during extrusion, the water instantly boils and creates bubbles, blobs, air gaps and all sorts of seemingly impossible and inconsistent problems that are a friggin nightmare to try to diagnose/troubleshoot. As a direct result of that, some of the things you could be changing could be bringing you further away from dimensional precision and worsen your print quality. A word of advise: Keep a ledger, document EVERY change, no matter how small. If you do this, reverting to old settings is effortless and there is no possible room for error. I make this easier by simply commenting out code and adding lines, instead of changing values. Just....don't forget to add comments so YOU know which settings are for what.
Assuming your filament has been properly dried (24 hours at the very least) then recalibrate your extruder. Don't even attempt this without a quality caliper, at the very least.
What are your Travel Speeds, your non-printing speeds, set to?
What is your print temperature?
DC42 is right, retraction settings are important because pla is known to ooze and you must relieve the back pressure on the nozzle and get it away from the heat of the nozzle enough for it not to come out while moving to the next print coordinate.
Temperature is equally important, however, if the temperature is too high, the filament is more of a liquid and retraction won't do a damn thing. Travel speed (non-printing moves) should also be as high as you can without creating skipping or overtravel because the the faster the nozzle gets to the target coordinate, the less time the nozzle has to ooze. Change temperature first, then travel (non-printing) speed. I usually go overboard and go with like 300-800 but make sure it's north of 250. THEN retraction speed, then retraction distance. You want retraction speed somewhere around 30-60 depending on how dialed in you are (usually), if I'm wrong about this, someone correct me.
You want retraction distance as small as possible, but with bowden I've found 4-10mm the typical range (but depends entirely how long the tube is, or even the type of filament).
Do you have
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M572_Set_or_report_extruder_pressure_advance
In your config? I don't recall what mine is set to, there is a thread here about an in-depth analysis of pressure advance.
What filament are you using out of curiosity? What brand?
Everything comes into play and every variable must be flawless in order to get the results you're looking for. Start eliminating variables.
carefully and methodically. It's time-consuming, yes, but we're working on automating additive manufacturing, standardizing 3D printing. -
Thanks for the tips. I store my filament in a closed box, but I do not have evadry. Could Silica Gel work as a substitute? I have a high quality calliper. Travel speeds are based on the Cura profile @Phaedrux posted yesterday. I think it was 120 or something.
Thanks for that one @Phaedrux. It actually removed a lot of the stringing issue. Now it’s so much better.
I have tried temps from 180 and up to 220. Results is almost the same.
I will try some more settings in Cura. Trial and error.
I have filaments from PrimaValue (green), Addnorth (transparent), Polymaker (red) and NinjaTek (white). I also have a no brand local black one.
No I don’t have extruded pressure advance in my Config. I will check it out.
