Giving in and Reverting to Marlin/Ramps?

pro3d

Seems like a worms-nest...

Well thanks for trying to help out. I guess I want something more plug and play like Marlin does for me an it is easy to configure without all kinds of special equipment and macros or what ever

I would never be able to support my customers in RRF configurations as it is now and with Marlin it would be easy

I just want something simple that works with the equipment and components I have and are used to

It sounds like I need more expensive equipment and what not to get this right and use a lot of time tuning it when I just want to print good prototypes as I do with the old setup and same components

You say the BL Touch is not good enough? Then this must be related to the Duet/RRF as it works as a charm in other configurations

Then I need a PT100 board? Well here we go - adding more stuff I dont have and ever needed printing from from PLA to Polycarbonate and up to 275c no problem

Sorry I just want something that works on the printers I am building and supplying to others as well

I guess in this time next year I might have changed my mind but the thing is that the flexibility of the firmware seems to be the bottleneck in my mind

Just wonder what all the fuzz was about and still dont get it except it is very quiet...!

JoergS5

I would say some of problems are due to the extruder (layer lines, extruding uneven, layer adhesion). So I would test and calibrate it first, then Z-leveling with BLTouch.

I changed to 24V also and bought 24V fans to avoid the dangers of wrong wiring, it costs only a few bucks. But there are forum threads for wiring 12 or 5 V here also.

One about 12 V fan:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1571/steppers-on-24v-and-both-permanent-fans-and-pwm-fans-on-12v

JoergS5

@pro3d You can connect PT1000 or thermistor directly, only for PT100 or thermocouple you need additional boards.

JoergS5

@pro3d I hope BLTouch is good because I bought it Presicision is 0.01 mm, this should be enough precision. I bought it because it works with all print bed types, glass or anything else.

pro3d

@joergs5 It used to be good before I converted to Duet. Now it seems like a bad probe...

I guess I just had to high expectations for this board and did not anticipate these problems I have run into and all the macro world I dont really like

pro3d

@djdemond How do I attach a PT1000 to the heater block? Or do I need another heatblock? seems like they are 4mm?

Dino

@pro3d if you're using an e3d hotend @DjDemonD sells the pt1000s on his web store.

https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/pt1000-sensor

pro3d

I also experience whining. I read about this on the trinamic 21xx but is this the same thing? They whine a lot I think. 24v 1200 mA

pro3d

One more thing I miss about this setup some camera solution. Seems like we need the rpi anyway or some wifi cam.

Or what do people do for camera?

Phaedrux

@pro3d said in Giving in and Reverting to Marlin/Ramps?:

One more thing I miss about this setup some camera solution. Seems like we need the rpi anyway or some wifi cam.

Or what do people do for camera?

I use a PiZeroW with camera module running MotionOS as an IP Cam. It works well for viewing, but no time lapse function.

There is currently no solution as easy as that provided by Octoprint.

T3P3Tony

@pro3d at certain microstep/current settings the Trinamic drivers have an audible whine when standing still (I have only experienced this when they are holding a position, not while moving). This is not unique to the Duet, but a "feature" of the drivers, however because we have SPI control of the drivers we have idle current reduction and standstill current reduction that drops the current by a configurable % when the stepper is stood still or moving very slowly. See:

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M906_Set_motor_currents
(the I parameter)

This is the percentage of normal that the motor currents should be reduced to when the printer becomes idle but the motors have not been switched off. The default value is 30% and always be at least 100mA.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M917_Set_motor_standstill_current_reduction

This command sets the percentage of the current set by M906 that is to be used when the motor is stationary but not idle, or moving very slowly.

pro3d

@t3p3tony thanks. This is while moving for sure so maybe some other setting

T3P3Tony

@pro3d Odd, all reports we have are that with the TMC 2660s the steppers are significantly quieter while actually moving. are you using interpolation to 256 microstepping? Something like

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1

The interpolation is set by the "I1" but it only applies at 16 microstepping.

pro3d

@t3p3tony
Yes it seems so

Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes back
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z3200 E470 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E300 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X9000 Y9000 Z360 E1500 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1500 Y1500 Z250 E750 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1300 Y1300 Z1200 E1200 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

dc42

@pro3d, you can continue to use a thermistor if you want, but the firmware needs to know what its characteristics are just as Marlin does. The configurator allows you to select from a number of popular types, or to enter 3 points from the resistance vs. temperature table.

HTH David

pro3d

I thought I could just use the NTC3950 as normal but I understand it is more complicated

Also I wonder about the difference between M561 and G29 S2 in the GUI. Why are these to options there?

And sometimes it seems they dont clear out the compensation when when I home Z after using the GUI for these two options - Z should read the offset value but somehow reads different due to some compensation I guess?

dc42

Yes you can use a 3950 thermistor, just use parameters 100000 for the R25 value, 3950 for the B value and 0 for the C value in the configurator, or in the M305 command if you are setting that up yourself. You should be aware that as there is no resistance vs. temperature table published for those thermistors and the 3950 will be the B value at low temperatures, the temperature readings for the hot end at printing temperatures will be highly inaccurate no matter what firmware you use. That doesn't necessarily matter because you will need to experiment to find what temperature reading works for your hot end and filament anyway.
M561 and G29 S2 do exactly the same thing. M561 was implemented a long time ago. When we added G29 mesh bed compensation, we included G29 S2 because it is easier to remember than M561.

HTH David

JoergS5

This post is deleted!

pro3d

@dc42

Thanks. I guess I need to read up on thermistors and check what this PT1000 thing is

Here is a link to a table for the 100K NTC3950. (I think it is table 11 in Marlin)
https://cae2100.wordpress.com/2014/03/08/beta3950-thermistor-table-for-marlin/

I still wonder why we have two options to clear the bed comp in the gui but I guess that is for the GUI developer to answer

Anyway it seems it does not clear the table all the time but I might be doing something wrong or the BL Touch is playing me

Thanks for trying to help out. I was just not aware of what a noob I was transferring to another platform so took some things for granted

dc42

That Marlin thermistor table assumes that the B value of 3950 is constant at all temperatures. It will be OK for a bed thermistor but likely to be rather inaccurate at extrusion temperatures. If you want accurate temperatures, you should use a thermistor for which the manufacturer publishes a resistance vs temperature table, or a PT100 or PT1000 or other better temperature sensor.

You can replicate that table by setting B3950 C0 in the M305 command for that heater.

Does DWC provide separate options for running M561 and G29 S2? I am on vacation so I can't check. If it does, then I agree that it shouldn't.