A month of tweaking and still can not get a print….
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@alexlin I have and have not been able to get a good print.
Tronxy X5S w? DuetWifi
CTC -
How were prints prior to switching to a Duet? Have you done any other upgrades to this printer? I don't know if I have ever read or watched a review of this printer that didn't say it had good bones, but needed a TON of work.
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@flippnswitchez Did you try the speed settings above?
I can share my config set for my corexy you can use to base your own off if you'd like.
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I agree with @Qdeathstar, I think you are printing with the extruder too hot.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@phaedrux I did and nothing has gotten better.
I actually pulled up my old config from the stock board, which I think I did correctly. I have tried making adjustments from there also with no luck
; Drives M569 P0 S1; Drive 0 goes forwards M569 P1 S1; Drive 1 goes backwards M569 P2 S0; Drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S0; Drive 3 goes forwards M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E32 I1; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X160 Y160 Z800 E400; Set steps per mm M566 X400 Y400 Z12 E100 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed M203 X900 Y900 Z40 E100 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X6000 Y6000 Z200 E20000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1200 Y1200 Z1000 E1000 I30 M84 S5 ; Set idle timeout ; Axis Limits M208 X0 Y-5 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X330 Y330 Z400 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S0 ; Set active low endstops ; Z-Probe ;M574 E0 Z1 S0 M558 P1 H6.38 I1 F200 T6000; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds G31 P600 X45 Y20 Z2.5; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X15:305 Y15:305 S40 ; Define mesh gridTronxy X5S w? DuetWifi
CTC -
@dc42 I am printing at 190
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@flippnswitchez , Both printed examples looked squished, as if your Z steps per mm are off. If you have a stock Tronxy X5S, it came with an 8MM screw and your M92 command should be set at Z400 instead of Z800. Mesh leveling might work once this has been corrected.
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What speeds were you printing those cubes at? I assume that the STL's ARE cubes, so in theory the z steps might actually not be off, as they seem pretty, um, cubic?
If you are printing reasonably slowly, I see varios other issues - it would be good to know if the printer BEFORE the change to Duet had similar issues or if you have some example prints:
if the temp really was 190ºC, then the first layer did not have good adhesion (corners pulled up) - what does the bottom look like? what are you using on the bed to help adhesion? the heater resistance is correctly and firmly held in place? the same goes for the thermistor, almost even more important, as if it is not getting all the heat from the heater, the heater will have to get hotter before the thermistor reaches the target temp.the layers seem more out of jink in the left cube, the corners are worse, and the color is not as "matte" - it was printed faster and hotter? in general does the printer shake a lot and make "shaky" noises? lack of repeatability from one layer to the next can indicate loose hardware or belts..
we have to try and eliminate hardware issues before isolating software problems...
cheers!
Andy
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@andymidtf before the change everything printed and worked well.
Currently, the first layer of the walls is thin, so thin it the filament doesn't even show it's color. Then when it moves to fill in the center of the cube it is coming out thick.
I decided to grab anything test cube from thingiverse and take a look at my Simplify 3D settings. ensured a the nozzle diameter was correct. the multiplier extrusion is set .90 and the width is set .48. These are the settings I used before the switch to duet. Well, the cube printed in a different area of the bed and the brim and walls come out a little thicker but not as thick as the center again.
I previously leveled the bed manually with a sheet of paper. I decided to run an auto bed come to see how it would do. No improvements, so I then ran the mesh. Before doing so, I moved the bed all the way to the bottom and back up trying to ensure the z motors are synced. The grid picture revealed a slope of the bed. I then ran the grid mesh repeatedly until I had everything level and on the bed.
The print the walls were like the center then. But it felt like the print was over extruding to me. I could be wrong on this. I am no expert, clearly haha. So I decided to try to retune the extruder and make sure things were correct.
Well for some reason that has thrown the grid mesh off. Maybe it is from the emergency stops. I am not sure. I probably spent 4 to 6 hrs with the mesh being perfectly fine the other day. So now I am back to fighting the mesh....
I did change the nozzle to the E3D V6 nozzle when I switched to the duet. So maybe this is part of my problem also.... I am trying every day for hours at a time to get this thing back up. I REALLY want to use this board because of all the great things I have heard. I have asked in FB groups for others Tronxy X5S configs, just so I can compare to someone that has a similar build but no luck with anyone sharing.
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@ayudtee I also have changed the 800 to 400. I am not exaggerating when I say I have tried so many different things, lol.
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@flippnswitchez said in A month of tweaking and still can not get a print….:
Tronxy x5s
Perhaps the small part needs more cooling? Uploading photos of a
larger print like the 3D benchy might help with troubleshooting.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 -
Knowing your slicing settings might help as well. What speeds are you trying to hit?
When you switched to the V6 nozzle, did you re-run a PID tune cycle on the heater?
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