How re-calibrate bed?

peirof

Mmmm…

Answer to myself....

https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control

Wiki has the power….

Platform for wiki in PDF!!! XD

peirof

After read….

What heater is nozzle? H0? H1?
What temperature is recommended for tuning bed/nozzle..for example 90/240?

M303 H1 S240 - - nozzle?
M303 H0 S90 - - bed?

dc42

@peirof:

After read….

What heater is nozzle? H0? H1?
What temperature is recommended for tuning bed/nozzle..for example 90/240?

M303 H1 S240 - - nozzle?
M303 H0 S90 - - bed?

Yes those are the default heater assignments, and good temperatures to tune them at.

peirof

HI,

What i have to do?

[[language]]
Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 1021C.
Auto tune heater 1 completed in 140 sec
Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g

GCODE console results

[[language]]
9:01:51Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 1021C.
Auto tune heater 1 completed in 140 sec
Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g
9:00:21Auto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 281.5
9:00:10Auto tune phase 2, heater off
8:59:36Auto tune phase 1, heater on
8:59:31M303 H1 S240
Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended

dc42

Are you using a 12V heater cartridge with 24V power?

peirof

mmmm….., maybe, i have changed stock Tevo Little Monster hotend, by a Genuine E3D v6.....

Maybe chaging the power to 0,5?

Where? How?

results of M307 H1

[[language]]
M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 1001.5, time constant 98.2, dead time 6.5, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 24.1, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P2.7, I0.107, D12.3
Computed PID parameters for load change: P2.7

dc42

Rewdicing PWM to compensate is dangerous. Did you order the 24V version of the E3Dv6? If yes, measure the resistance of the heater cartridge to see if they supplied a 12V one instead. See step 4 at https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Electronics+Assembly/4. If no, then order a 24V cartridge. Get a 25W or 30W one, because the 40W ones are much too powerful if you have a silicone sock over the heater block.

peirof

HI,

this is…. i haved ordered 12v model....

peirof

aprox…. what resitence i search? 16.4?

totalitarian

@dc42:

Rewdicing PWM to compensate is dangerous. Did you order the 24V version of the E3Dv6? If yes, measure the resistance of the heater cartridge to see if they supplied a 12V one instead. See step 4 at https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Electronics+Assembly/4. If no, then order a 24V cartridge. Get a 25W or 30W one, because the 40W ones are much too powerful if you have a silicone sock over the heater block.

In what way is it too powerful? I think mine is 40W

dc42

Adding a silicone sock to the heater block is a good thing, because it makes less likely that you will burn yourself if you touch it, less likely that anything will short against it (e.g. the back of an IR sensor), and turning on the print cooling fan will cause a lesser drop in hot end temperature. But the extra insulation it provides means that if the heater is left on at full power, it will reach higher temperatures, perhaps dangerously high. That is why I said that 40W is too powerful.

totalitarian

I guess that's why I got the warnings when running the temp auto calibration!