1 thing stopping me now..
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thinking it's in this section.. but no clue what to change/delete/ncomment…
; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches
M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20 ; Define mesh grid -
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If you're not using a Z-probe, then you shouldn't have the M558/G31/M557 lines (delete the whole line).
Use M119 to test if the Z-endstop is wired properly - trigger it manually and check that it says "at min stop".
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Have you read https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer#Homing_Z ?
no.. I hadn't ,… sweet!!! sooo much info and sooo little brain .
. thanks . 
If you're not using a Z-probe, then you shouldn't have the M558/G31/M557 lines (delete the whole line).
Use M119 to test if the Z-endstop is wired properly - trigger it manually and check that it says "at min stop".
ya, thought that line(s) weren't needed but still WAY to new to this code/board and didn't want to make things worse (I have a habit of that
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No worries, we all start somewhere! Happy to help.
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Have you read https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer#Homing_Z ?
That worked !!! thanks for pointing to that!! printed out the whole section, need to read through it throughly
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OK new issue.. might be nothing? just did the PID auto tune thing.. after it came up with a warning..
"warning, heater one appears to be over powered and a fire risk!! If left on at full power, it's temp is predicted to reach 757C"Umm ….ack?
now the PID tune should prevent this correct?
is there a way to lower the power coming out of the board? looked at the "hotend" settings but nothing says "hot end power", or voltage or something.. -
All a PID tune does is help the controller hold the desired temperature better, i.e. with less variation. Think of PID tuning as practicing walking on a tightrope - once your brain is trained (the PID gains are tuned), there's less wobbling around (temperature variation).
A heater that powerful is a fire risk if the controller were to fail. I would guess you're using a 12v heater on 24v, or a 40w heater with a sock or other insulation?
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All a PID tune does is help the controller hold the desired temperature better, i.e. with less variation. Think of PID tuning as practicing walking on a tightrope - once your brain is trained (the PID gains are tuned), there's less wobbling around (temperature variation).
A heater that powerful is a fire risk if the controller were to fail. I would guess you're using a 12v heater on 24v, or a 40w heater with a sock or other insulation?
nope, 12v system with 12v heater heater is stock MK8.. there is a sock on it I made.
Ya I get the basis of the PID tune.. and got to say, it's WAY more stable than with marlin's.. getting like a 0.5º variation where marlin I was get +/-2º or more.
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Sounds like a 40 watt heater with a sock. That is too much heat/too much insulation, if the Duet's FETs ever failed on, the hotend would reach ~700C, melt the heater block, and likely start a fire. Would recommend a 30w heater if you plan to use a sock.
The PID tune won't prevent a fire as no matter what the gains are, it can't compensate for a hardware failure.
