Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?
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@neodue said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
you would have to cope with the air getting hot and thus expanding
The trick is to use a differential method. Just before you begin to probe, you read the pressure and then set the trigger point a fixed amount above that pressure. It's only theory until I get the sensor modules.
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@neodue said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
If you could get custom made piezo sensors that are not round for a decent price
You can cut the big disks into any shape you like, they are rather easy to cut and they still work
These trimmers you suggest are in comparison relatively heavy and in my old company I learnt there were problems with those when being built stiffly into force transducers - they got killed or worn-out by the mechanical impulses over time in some cases.
I have them on the 2 printers for many years, no issues, omni also have it on his printer, also no issues (now he has printer for a year, not years so we'll see), all 3 printers have them on the head so much more vibrations than on the bed, no issues.. but yes, I do understand your pov. There are smaller multiturn trimmers that are rated for lot more than 20 turns and would be better choice but they are smd parts so would have to be designed into the board, almost impossible to just change the existing smd trimmer with a new one with different pinout... the through hole ones are possible as you can bend the wires any way you want
.... if I was designing the board I'd use those (smaller, lighter, cheaper to manufacture.. and still multiturn)So here is the solution for anyone who might need it in the future: the digital output of v2.85 does indeed pull the signal line to ground
If they kept true to their original statement and shared the schematic like they did for original board we could see that ourselves immediately...
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The trick is to use a differential method. Just before you begin to probe, you read the pressure and then set the trigger point a fixed amount above that pressure. It's only theory until I get the sensor modules.
Okay, that might work - but you would zero it before every probing point then. Anyway, I would rather prefer something not relying on gases or liquids
You can cut the big disks into any shape you like, they are rather easy to cut and they still work
Depends, I think... I have no personal experience with this, but from what I read e.g. drilling them causes weird response curves in some cases.
There are smaller multiturn trimmers that are rated for lot more than 20 turns and would be better choice but they are smd parts so would have to be designed into the board, almost impossible to just change the existing smd trimmer with a new one with different pinout... the through hole ones are possible as you can bend the wires any way you want
.... if I was designing the board I'd use those (smaller, lighter, cheaper to manufacture.. and still multiturn)Agreed. When I solder something myself, I stick with THT, so I don't know what is available. But while I do not miss the multiturn feature, anything of similar size with a longer lifetime would be good indeed.
If they kept true to their original statement and shared the schematic like they did for original board we could see that ourselves immediately...
You are absolutely right there. However, I do understand they want to make life more difficult for copycats. Like this, someone who wants to copy the thing at least needs to buy and reverse engineer it - and does not get the schematic for free. It is not much of a hindrance, but it does help a bit. I have to admit I would do the same in their case.
But it would be good to note in the manual what the outputs do, and maybe remove the outdated schematic that only confuses the buyers. This is exactly what I suggested to them - let's see if they follow my input
For now, I will wait for my second amplifier.
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@neodue said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
I have no personal experience with this, but from what I read e.g. drilling them causes weird response curves in some cases.
I do, lot of experience with piezo materials, using them to drive mirrors, etc ... the major issue with drilling is that you usually mess it up and break the piezo element due to the way drill work, if you could punch the hole out it would be much better... cutting it with a pcb cutter or big paper cutter produces very usable parts... major problem with these is that the "coating" you solder on is crap
.. ideally you should not solder but make contact using some springsAgreed. When I solder something myself, I stick with THT, so I don't know what is available. But while I do not miss the multiturn feature, anything of similar size with a longer lifetime would be good indeed.
I missed multiturn a lot as making piezo trigger just right is super hard with the %$#^$# one used here, and every time you reassemble the head you need to tweak it again (and after few times it is dead) ... soldering smd is simple, I prefer smd to pth as with pth I need to hold part on one side and solder on other, I need to drill the pcb etc etc... too much hassle, smd is super easy (0805 and bigger, I do hate those 0402 and smaller parts
but when you design it yourself you go with 0805 and 1206 and you can solder that easier than pth with just a little bit practice) ... anyhow with jlcpcb being so cheap these days I let them do all the soldering for me as it is usually cheaper to get soldered board from them than just buying parts locallyYou are absolutely right there. However, I do understand they want to make life more difficult for copycats. Like this, someone who wants to copy the thing at least needs to buy and reverse engineer it - and does not get the schematic for free. It is not much of a hindrance, but it does help a bit. I have to admit I would do the same in their case.
TBH I think that's BS
Their board is cheap so purchasing their bord is not a problem for cloner.
Reverse engineering a 16x10cm 6 layer board "full of parts" with extracting HEX and converting HEX to ASM, so- HEX
- gerbers for all 6 layers
- Schematic with part numbers and values
cost 450eur
I guess reverse engineering Orion board at same company cost less then Orion board
so they are not preventing cloners nor making anything harder for cloners. The only ones they are preventing are advanced users.For now, I will wait for my second amplifier.
you sure 2 will do? why didn't you go with 3 so you can have 100% one sensor one amp so there's no way they can influence each other? You know how they say if it is worth doing it is worth overdoing
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@arhi said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
I do, lot of experience with piezo materials, using them to drive mirrors, etc ... the major issue with drilling is that you usually mess it up and break the piezo element due to the way drill work, if you could punch the hole out it would be much better... cutting it with a pcb cutter or big paper cutter produces very usable parts... major problem with these is that the "coating" you solder on is crap
.. ideally you should not solder but make contact using some springsInteresting - I never had a problem with soldering on them. But I never dared to cut them. I'll remember your advice and try when there is a need again
I missed multiturn a lot as making piezo trigger just right is super hard with the %$#^$# one used here, and every time you reassemble the head you need to tweak it again (and after few times it is dead) ... soldering smd is simple, I prefer smd to pth as with pth I need to hold part on one side and solder on other, I need to drill the pcb etc etc... too much hassle, smd is super easy (0805 and bigger, I do hate those 0402 and smaller parts
but when you design it yourself you go with 0805 and 1206 and you can solder that easier than pth with just a little bit practice) ... anyhow with jlcpcb being so cheap these days I let them do all the soldering for me as it is usually cheaper to get soldered board from them than just buying parts locallyAh, JLC were the ones I had checked as well some time ago, but they don't like Eagle files - and I did not want to learn using another software for what little I do... therefore I use Aisler in case the need arises - but with drilled holes. A little old-fashioned I am, I know
When it came to adjusting, it seems I am lucky: I set it once - and despite disassembling and reassambling over and over to find out what my problem was, I almost never had to touch the potentiometer again. I cross my fingers it stays like that
TBH I think that's BS
Their board is cheap so purchasing their bord is not a problem for cloner. [...]It is always difficult with such rather cheap electronics - unless you use your own custom ICs and remove the labels on all the other ones, you are never safe. As I said, it is a hindrance, but not a large one. If someone really wants to copy you, he will. Others that just search for an easy way might go on and look for something else. At least the chinese copys I found are not the latest version, so it seems at least they do not care enough or don't think it's worth the investment. IMHO the advanced user needs a clear specification of what the output does exactly (and this is what they ought to provide indeed), but not necessarily the schematic.
you sure 2 will do? why didn't you go with 3 so you can have 100% one sensor one amp so there's no way they can influence each other? You know how they say if it is worth doing it is worth overdoing
Haha
No, I will stick with two. "As good as necessary for the task" is good enough for me there - otherwise I would have followed your suggestion and built my own amplifier -
@neodue said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
Interesting - I never had a problem with soldering on them. But I never dared to cut them. I'll remember your advice and try when there is a need again
no problem soldering on them, the problem is not tearing the wire with solder joint from them taking the whole coating with that solder with them ... as the metalized coating you solder on is vapored on or added by some other chemical reaction and is super thin and weak, a little pull on the wire and off it goes ...purchase a box of them from PRC and play with them, cut, drill, it's cheap and they are very versatile sensors for many things.. if that interest you, if you only wanna solve the probing issue, you probably already did
Ah, JLC were the ones I had checked as well some time ago, but they don't like Eagle files - and I did not want to learn using another software for what little I do... therefore I use Aisler in case the need arises - but with drilled holes. A little old-fashioned I am, I know
Why would you send eagle files to anyone? Eagle can export GERBER as well as any other PCB editor, Gerber is the manufacturing format. Anyhow I think both seedstudio and dirtypcb (Ian from dang.prot.) accept raw eagle files and they'll export gerbers for you for processing them, only they don't have cheap assembly with cheap pcb's
At least the chinese copys I found are not the latest version, so it seems at least they do not care enough or don't think it's worth the investment.
they don't care, no one is buying them, they are copying bltouch and other stuff ppl are buying ... too many issues with PP for them to care about. Again a reason not to withhold schematic from advanced users. On the other hand, they are adults, they can do whatever they like, not my problem. I wish them all the success in business and life.
No, I will stick with two. "As good as necessary for the task" is good enough for me there - otherwise I would have followed your suggestion and built my own amplifier
actually the best solution is to have bed that do not need leveling but that's another can of worms
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I think that goes too much offtopic now - I'll send you a PM
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Just in case somebody stumbles over this thread and has the same problem:
In the meantime I got the second amplifier and included it in my bed sensors.
Dividing the three piezo bed sensors on two different amplifiers - both (digital) outputs being connected in parallel to the input of the Duet - worked perfectly for me. All problems I had with the bed sensors are gone and contact sensing works great even with the slow z axis of my printer.
Thus, I can recommend this method whenever there is a crosstalk problem with piezo sensors.
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@neodue said in Two Precision Piezo boards in parallel on one input possible?:
worked perfectly for me. All problems I had with the bed sensors are gone and contact sensing works great even with the slow z axis of my printer.
If you share the mounts for the sensors for your printer that can help a lot for someone using the same/similar printer
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@arhi I had already posted the setup I used
You can see it here: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14477/piezo-board-with-4-sensors/29The bed screw holes of the original bed support (a shaped sheet metal plate) were drilled open to let the bed springs through, and I added additional screw holes to hold the added aluminium profiles in place and stiffen the original bed support.
The basic "mount" for each sensor is a more or less L-shaped aluminium profile I had lying around (a rest of the cable channel for our TV). You can replace it with any aluminium L profile that has at least the following dimensions: material thickness 1,2mm, long "leg" of L profile 24mm, short "leg" of L profile 8mm.
I cut fitting holes into the material as needed (two screws for the Andromeda, one larger for the bed spring, another screw hole for screwing the whole thing onto the original part and making the assembly stiffer than it was before and two M2 threaded holes for some sensor covers I printed from PETG) and used clinch nuts to get stable threads for mounting the Andromeda sensors. Since I mounted these aluminium plates on top of the original sheet metal bed support so save some millimeters (as noted in the other thread, there is not much available space in my printer), I used DIN 988 adjusting washers to even out the heights when I screwed on the sensors.
In order to catch the tolerances, I mounted everything loosely first, then added the bed and only then tightened all screws with a little bit of Loctite (be careful not to let that stuff get onto the epoxy material of the PCB, in some cases this causes trouble some years later).
That's it, basically... sadly nothing another user could use 1:1 I am afraid - but It's a concept. If I can help you (or anyone else) with details please feel free to ask or send me a message
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@neodue ah, I forgot about that post, I had them printed and mounted on the bed as more than enough space here, I just believe since it is solved now as much info as possible in single place so when someone tomorrow ends up reading it they will know how to reproduce
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Firstly, I must apologize for coming a month late to this party but I only just stumbled across this thread on a Google search for something else.
It sounds like the problem is something I came across and did a bit of research on. The problem is not with piezo sensors, but with the dynamic behavior of the bed being unpredictable in much the manner of the sand plates (Chladni plates) beloved of high school science demonstrations.
I found two ways to combat this:-
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The underbed sensors are much more predictable if they are placed beyond the periphery of the probing area - having three closely matched piezos helps a lot as well.
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Use a single underbed sensor to get the accurate nozzle contact and only probe directly above this sensor. A second sensor of the contact type such as a BLTouch is used got get other data for bed leveling/mapping. This does require that there is some way to select the sensor to tbe used for each purpose.
I have had a great deal of success with the second method and am able to get results with an accuracy of better than 3 microns at all points on the bed.
More info on this at:-
https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?424,865620
https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?424,874556
https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,635075,881434#msg-881434Mike
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@leadinglights Thanks for the remark with the Chladni plates! I never heard of these before (not common part of school physics when I was a pupil at least), but this fits perfectly to what I observed with my oscilloscope.
Since my Neo print head would need complete redesign to include a piezo up there, I stuck with reading out the sensors that got crosstalk separately and am quite happy with the result. I see some repeatable measurement errors due to the varying flexibility of the print bed, but that is fine for me for now.
Hm... now that I think of it, it might be worth a feature request to be able to substract a given height map from a newly measured one... by doing this you could remove such measurement errors...
