Capricorn PTFE Tubing XS- Low Friction
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
I am going to check these out, just viewed the webpage. I like what I see so far but I wonder what teaming one of these up with a titan aero would do
https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/f3d-dda/ -
Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
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Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644
that would do the trick and using only the recommended filaments for that nozzle
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Yes recommended to have some felt or something similar to clean the filament.
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that particular enclosure uses a PTFE tube all the way to the extruder so the filament never gets exposed accept when loading of coarse but yeah no reason a felt coupler couldnt be integrated right before it enters into the PTFE
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
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and i thought printing the e3d ptfe clip was rough LOL that is microscopic… but is it really higher res? eventually would like to be able to print gears so accuracy is important to me but that seems a bit much for my needs not to mention print times...ugh :).
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
Did you lower all your retraction settings? I found that i needed to lower retraction down quite a lot after the upgrade as i quickly jammed and needed to perform a cold pull with nylon to clear everything.
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and i thought printing the e3d ptfe clip was rough LOL that is microscopic… but is it really higher res? eventually would like to be able to print gears so accuracy is important to me but that seems a bit much for my needs not to mention print times...ugh :).
you should be able to do gears just fine with .35 or .4 nozzle if you're calibrated well.
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I'm glad I found this thread. I just ordered some of that Capricorn XS tubing from Filastruder. I've been trying to reduce the problems I get with corner blobbing and blobbing at layer line ends due to bowden system pressure. I've been using the pressure advance feature, and with the settings I've got so far it's been helping, but hasn't eliminated it.
If this Capricorn reduces the filament compression (more like kinking than strict compression, but you know what I mean) that should help a lot more. This bowden system pressure is the one thing I really don't like about my printer as compared to my direct extruding Di3. Other than this my D-bot is better than my Di3 in every way.
Btw, I have a little experience looking at extrusion "pulsing" quality when changing microstepping. When I increased the microstepping I was using on my extruder I saw an improvement in the consistency of the extruded line widths. It's tiny, but you can actually see it pretty clearly on the surface of top layers. There are little "segments" if you will due to extruder stepping, and the size and distance between segments was clearly reduced as I upped the microstepping. I'll see if I can find the photo I had before that showed this.
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Here's an image showing two printed gears (to be used with my belted extruder). The one on top was printed with my extruder stepper set to use 32x microstepping. The one on the bottom had the extruder using 16x microstepping.
If you look carefully you can see the "step pulsing" artifacts are smaller and closer together in the 32x microstepping print as compared to the 16x print.
A geared vs. non-geared extruder should show similar differences due to step pulsing. If anyone's confused, I'm calling it "step pulsing" when the pressure in the extruder system is increased suddenly and then decays a little as plastic flow reduces the pressure due to the discrete steps nature of the stepper motors we use. The closer together the steps are, the lower the difference will be between the highest and lowest pressure (and hence flowrate) of the system as it prints, as well as the frequency of these pressure pulses. The geared extruders have the same effect, ie: more pulses per mm of printed line, at lower pressure difference per pulse.
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
Did you lower all your retraction settings? I found that i needed to lower retraction down quite a lot after the upgrade as i quickly jammed and needed to perform a cold pull with nylon to clear everything.
Yes, I went from 3.5mm retraction and still some fine stringing, to 1.3mm retraction, zero stringing. No other change than the Capricorn bowden tubing, cut to the same length. (E3dv6 & titan combo)
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Yes i experienced the same result with setting extruder to 32… the layer lines on the side become pretty difficult to see without the right reflection or close up photo at 32
currently back at 16 just until i dial in my top speed then ill try switching back to 32
I plan on testing a 0.9 degree motor for my extruder as well.
you should try printing with Igus Iglidur 180 PF filament... it is expensive but incredibly precise, it can print straight up in the air and 90 degree overhangs without issue.... with this precision comes tell tail signs of extruder issues which has helped me fine tune even further.
That and it makes for some seriously sharp gears and bushings.
I will be doing a review in a new thread soon
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you should try printing with Igus Iglidur 180 PF filament… it is expensive but incredibly precise, it can print straight up in the air and 90 degree overhangs without issue.... with this precision comes tell tail signs of extruder issues which has helped me fine tune even further.
I agree, the 180 filament prints really well. I've tried it and the 170. Now they've come out with the 260 and something else, I think 210. I'm going to get a sample of the 260 and try it out. It's supposed to be better than the 170 in terms of friction and wear.
If you like the Igus filament, if you have a D-bot you should check out my Igus filament bearing pads on Thingiverse. Basically I replaced all 12 mini V-slot wheels that ride in the V-slot grooves of the D-bot's X/Y motion system with carrier blocks that fit in the same space as the wheels did, and have Igus filament pads that actually ride on and in the grooves of the v-slot. This allows a much tighter installation with zero or at least undetectable by hand slop in the fit and alignment of the X gantry and the print carriage. I'm really pleased with it so far. I've been printing entirely without wheels on my X/Y for about 6 or 7 weeks now. I'm currently working on a solution to replace the wheels on the Z axis with Igus pads as well.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2373538
I've tried the 180 and 170 filament with these pads. The 180 printed easier, but I believe the 170 had less friction and is supposed to wear better. I'd really like to try out the 260 filament.
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Yeah getting a roll of 260 to compare was on my list, they say its the equivilent of their injection molded parts but we'll see… i actually prefer the 180 over the preloaded igus bearings. When i printed the lm8uu style bearings in 180 i printed them tight and slowly reamed them out with a 8mm drill bit just until they would slowly slide up and down while i flipped the x shaft end for end.
Then i took the bearing with my hand and moved it fast up and down.... the slight friction actually is a friend of the 180.... once they are warmed i again tipped it end for end and the speed in which these light bearings move is easily double that of the preloaded igus bearings which weigh a lot more because of their aluminum housing. All while maintaining tight tolerences compared to the sloppy igus bearings.
When warmed the bearing actually acts like its running on an air hockey table.
I have hopes that the 260 will be similar but with better strength but its up there with 170 in regards to printability.
I wish they had more data on their website comparing the differences.
That is awesome about printing without wheels.... I printed every moving part with 180 yesterday.... just have to get it all installed now. So far just my X carriage is using 180 bearings
If you know where to buy 260 in the US please let me know... I can only find 180 and 170
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Call this lady:
Cindy Mowry
Igus Inc.
East Providence, RI
Phone: 800-521-2747
Fax: 401-438-7270
cmowry@igus.comThe j260 filament shows up as $64/250g here:
http://www.igus.com/wpck/14928/N15_04_14_iglidur_J260The i170 has the same 250g rolls for about the same price, but they also have a 750g roll for like $94. I was going to order a 750g roll of 170 until I found out about the 260. Now I want to try it before pulling the trigger on the 170. So far I've been using samples from Igus. They'll send a sample out to anyone, but they sent me more than one sample of both the 170 and 180 because I told them I was developing some solutions with them that I intended for general release.
Btw, what printer are you using? You just said you printed every moving part yesterday with 180. Every moving part for which printer? A D-bot? If so, I'd be curious what you think of the X/Y motion bearing pads for the D-bot that I linked to in my previous post.
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I've seen quite a few posts where people were building D-bots and then buying expensive Hiwin linear guide rails and bolting them onto the v-slot. I thought that's just ridiculous. Part of the beauty of the D-bot is in the way the rails that make up its frame perform double duty as the linear guide rails for the X/Y/Z motion system. That's very simple and elegant. The only problem is that a lot of people just aren't happy with the performance of the mini v-slot wheels, and find the Hiwin rails give them better precision, less play and slop, low friction, etc.
I believe my Igus sliding bearing pad solution that uses the v-slot rails instead of additional bolt-on rails is cheaper than going with Hiwin, while achieving all of the same advantages of the Hiwin guide rails over the v-slot wheels. And best of all, it's an almost invisible mod that people might not even notice, because it doesn't involve bolting all kidns of extra hardware onto the v-slot. The parts I've designed blend in very well with the original D-bot parts they are used with.
I've modded my D-bot quite a bit over stock, and yet it doesn't immediatey look to the casual glance like it's heavily modded because I've tried to maintain the simplicity of the design without bolting all sorts of extra crap onto it. I'm about to publish a v2.0 of my Igus bearing pad D-bot X/Y system with more refined carrier blocks that blend in better with the stock D-bot parts they mate up with (there's also a moderate improvement in the Igus sliding pad itself in this v2.0). That will probably go up tonight.
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i heavily modified a XYZ Davinci Pro…. your linear rail solution has me interested for another build. I will take a closer look tomorrow.
Thanks for the igus contact info
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I got my Capricorn tubing yesterday and put one in (using one side of the Chimera for now). It does seem noticeably better.
Right now I'm having some trouble understanding a stringing/oozing problem I'm having.
With the Capricorn tubing I ran some test prints where I reduced the retraction from the 4.6 I'd been using with my cheapo PTFE tubing in steps all the way down to 2.0, and in some tests, 1.5. With conventional retraction tower tests I saw great results. I've got two retraction tests I'll show in a few minutes that went down to 2.0mm retraction that show zero stringing.
Then I printed off a 90-100mm tall Baby Groot and there's just god-awful stringing between his legs, and between his arms and his body. After a 2.0mm retraction Groot showed signs of bad stringing I bumped it to 2.5mm and reprinted, and it's still bad. I'm running one right now at retraction of 3.0mm and I'll see soon enough whether that's going to do it.
After the retraction tower tests I was feeling pretty awesome about the possibility of having my retraction down to nearly approaching direct extruder levels, but after these Groot tests I see that's not realistic.
I'm a little confused though as to why my retraction tower tests are coming up perfectly stringing/oozing free at 2.0mm, but these Baby Groot's are coming out with awful stringing.
I thought I understood retraction pretty darn well, and so this has me nervous, because I know I'm missing something that would explain this.
I'll put some photos in just a minute.
