Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops

droftarts

@wingtip said in Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops:

good morning gents..... so after a nights rest and calming down i found another cable this morning and tried it and bam, it recognised it and gave me the port i needed and now have my panel due working again and updated to now 1.23.2.

Great!

so i went to try to home again and same issues... so in the new web control when editing it has a g code reference where before i was using some random web page... when using the reference from the webcontrol it seems to have some more updated info and i noticed this section and thought id give it a try

You've probably been looking at the general reprap Gcode page https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code, which may not have the latest info on it, and has multiple versions of gcodes for how each different firmware interprets the commands! Best to use the Duet-specific one we curate: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode. There are plenty of links in the documentation to our one, and in my posts where I've referenced gcodes!

M574 - RepRapFirmware 3

Unless you've updated your Duet firmware again, you are NOT using RRF3, you're using RRF2 v2.04. Make sure you use the correct section! https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M574_RepRapFirmware_2_x_and_earlier

so i briefly experimented with this in hopes this would solve my issues but still nothing. And im still noticing the 2nd endstop is still triggered on the wrong end no matter which way you configure it... i think i need to follow the advice to swap to a different port instead of E1/drive 4 but im off to work now and i will do some more suffering after work lol....

Okay! I'll test your setup and see what I get.

Ian

wingtip

@droftarts
Ya I realized it was a different version but I was desperate and can easily change back the few lines I edited.
I look forward to your results if you use the same ports/drives and my config.

droftarts

@wingtip

I've had some problems with this, but the outcome seems to be to plug the U endstop into E0! This works for me, even though the motor is plugged into motor drive E1. I'll check with @dc42 why this might be! On the whole, I'd just move the whole U axis to motor driver 3 (E0).

Edit: Tested, set U to driver 3 (E0) U endstop connected to E0_ENDSTOP works. In config.g change to:
M584 X0:3 Y1 Z2 U3 E4 P3
M569 P3 S0
M569 P4 S1
Also change U4 to U3 in homing files.

I think your endstops may be wired Normally Open (NO) rather than Normally Closed (NC). It says HERE that you should use the Normally Closed pins (the outer two, the three pins usually being G (Ground), NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed)) of your microswitch. It goes on to say:

... set the signal polarity to active high (S1) in the M574 command

eg yours should be:

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 U1 S1 ; position low, active low
M574 Z1 S2 ; set endstops controlled by probe

This should mean that:

If an endstop is not connected, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be off, and 'Triggered' will be 'Yes'
If an endstop is connected and not triggered, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be lit, and 'Triggered' will be 'No'
If an endstop is connected and triggered, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be off, and 'Triggered' will be 'Yes'

However, your config.g has the endstops triggering active low (M574 S0), and this seems to be shown in the endstop response. I have to invert mine with S1 to get the right response. The main thing is that all used endstops should report 'No' when not triggered, and 'Yes' when triggered!

Ian

dc42

I confirm, endstop switches are allocated to axes independently of stepper drivers. In RRF2 the endstop switch allocation is automatic and can't be changed. Your U axis will be allocated the first unassigned endstop, which is E0. If you created another axis such as V, that will be assigned to E1.

BTW, RRF3 handles multiple endstops on an axis automatically, without having to create additional axes.

wingtip

@dc42 soooooo are you saying for us mere mortals that i can leave the motor in its current connection in the E1/dr 4 slot but i just need to move the endstop to the E0 endstop slot? or should i move both?

wingtip

@droftarts the panel due enclosure i printed is this one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101323

droftarts

@wingtip said in Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops:

@dc42 soooooo are you saying for us mere mortals that i can leave the motor in its current connection in the E1/dr 4 slot but i just need to move the endstop to the E0 endstop slot? or should i move both?

Yes, you can leave the motor on E1/dr 4 and move the endstop to E0. Like I said in my earlier post!

Also, when I was running your config.g, I realised you must have leadscrews on your X axis, with the steps per mm of 400. However, at the speeds the axis was hitting during jogging (100mm at F6000), I got motor phase disconnection warnings, which can happen if the motor is turning faster than it can cope with, and will lead to missed steps. I was using some standard NEMA17 motors. If you are, I'd set your X axis speed limit a bit lower.

Ian

wingtip

SUCCESS!!!!! WOOHOOO.....

finally.... everything as far as the x axis is concerned is working as it should now. Thank you so much everyone. now i feel safe enough to install the cross beams to physically connect the two vertical posts.

I did get the errors you were mentioning as well... i can slow them down or up the current i suppose but i already had them to 1000 mah if i recall... what would you suggest for a max for nema 17s on lead screws... with two motors on the x it should be able to move x around without breaking a sweat... lol

Phaedrux

@wingtip said in Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops:

what would you suggest for a max for nema 17s

It's recommended to target 70-85% of max rated motor current. You can go as high as 100% of rated but the motors will get quite hot.

droftarts

@wingtip Are you running a 24V PSU? Mine is on 12V, but 24V will more than likely help you achieve higher speeds. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_How_to_work_out_the_power_supply_voltage_you_need

Ian

wingtip

@droftarts

wow thats a lot of math. Im not trying to calculate a launch window and trajectory to mars..... lol.. That page talks about 150mm/s on 12v and mine is on 12v, 1000amp supply... dude im used to printing at a max of 40mm /s right now... if i got 80mm/s and kept accuracy i'd pee my pants with excitement....

If you guys want to see what im working on that requires a larger printer than my FT5..take a peek here... this is a collection of photos over the past several years of designing and redesigning, printing, redesigning, re printing, tired of paying others to print then build my own printer, then start building my big printer lol
https://www.flickr.com/photos/52018479@N03/sets/72157662139793862

Phaedrux

You're making a model of Wet Nellie!?

wingtip

@Phaedrux not just a model a functional model...

https://youtu.be/cqnuijMqxbc part 1 (a lil boring but demonstrate some of the radio functions)
https://youtu.be/PQtJsHgfmHI part 2

droftarts

@wingtip I saw that your profile image was the James Bond Lotus Esprit sub, but didn't realise you were making one!

Ian

wingtip

Heres a quick video showing you the printer ... thank you everyone.
https://youtu.be/fqf0_rCpsmg

Phaedrux

Looking good. Keep us posted on your progress. And feel free to ask for any help as you go.

wesc

@wingtip I'm fighting the same issues with dual X and dual Y motors. Can you post your final config.g and homeall.g (or homex.g)? Might be able to figure out my problem without needing to make a new post.

Thanks.

wingtip

@wesc I believe these to be my current config... id have to double check at a later time but these were my backup files so i think i had updated them when i last was messing with it... im still building/ modelling the printer so its not finished.

homeall.g config.g