quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi

deckingman

One last go at this.

Let us suppose that you've just built a machine and you start to commission it. And let us suppose that you won't bother to set the steps per mm for extruder on it's own - you'll just wait and do everything as one entire assembly. When you go to set the steps per mm, you find that you need to use say 20% more than the manufacturer states for that extruder. Or maybe you don't have any data so you just accept whatever value you get with the hot end fitted. Then later you find that you have yours set much higher than anyone else using the same set up. Do you question the result or do you just say "that's what it needs so that's what I'll use"? (even though the prints turn out like crap).

Or maybe you have the sense to realise that if you need a much higher value than anyone else, then there might be something wrong. So where do you start to look? A logical thing to do would be to check the extruder on it's own to see if the fault lies in the hot end or the extruder. Low and behold, it's much better. Why is that you may wonder? On further investigation you find there is a small piece of swarf or some other debris in the nozzle. That's the reason why you had to set the steps per mm so high - because that partial blockage was making the extruder slip.

Had you set the steps per mm for the extruder alone in the first place, you would have immediately known that there was a problem with the hot end as soon as you started to print something. As it is, you've started off by applying an inaccurate value to the extruder to compensate for a fault in the hot end.

It matters not to me how others do what they do. But in terms of advising others - well I've stated the reasons why I think one method is better than another - let the OP decide which method he thinks is preferable.

WilcoE

Here is the latest print.

fcwilt

@deckingman

Really?

Setting the steps/mm to the correct value according to the specific hardware is a given and I assumed you knew that I would do that.

Even if you don't have the manufacture specified setting it is easy to determine what it should be.

Frederick

bartolomeus

@WilcoE To me it looks like an improvement. Hard to tell, beacause the other pic is very small.

Other thing I noticed, is your motor currents a pretty low. I think tou can safely try 800-1000ma. The motors are rated for 1.5a, so 1a should still be on the safe side.

How is the printer mechanically:

belts tight?
Z-axis running smoothly up and down?

WilcoE

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@WilcoE To me it looks like an improvement. Hard to tell, beacause the other pic is very small.

Other thing I noticed, is your motor currents a pretty low. I think tou can safely try 800-1000ma. The motors are rated for 1.5a, so 1a should still be on the safe side.

How is the printer mechanically:

belts tight?

Z-axis running smoothly up and down?

Belts are tight maybe to tight? got also here the other printer with the SKR and the belts from that machine looks not so tight.

z-axis running smooth, it's easy to get it up and down by hand

Going to change motor currents to 800ma

bartolomeus

@WilcoE Also check if the mount that holds the leadscrew nut is square.

A Former User

@deckingman said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

It matters not to me how others do what they do. But in terms of advising others - well I've stated the reasons why I think one method is better than another - let the OP decide which method he thinks is preferable.

That's only piece of sense you have typed in the whole thread, everything else is as I have stated is an "opinion"

I would never be so arrogant as to state that one person's opinion is better than anyone else's, it is all about perspective and what works.

And I would never be so arrogant as to state that anyone providing someone assistance based on THEIR real world experience should be considered wrong, just because someone else thinks so based on their opinion.

deckingman

@CaLviNx I respect your opinion of my opinion, even thought it differs from my opinion of my opinion. Whilst I always look forward to, and enjoy out little tete-a-tetes, I fear I must decline any further response as this is neither the time nor the place to do so.

dc42

@WilcoE said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

Here is the latest print.

How does that compare with the one produced by the other printer? Are they both printed using the same slicer and slicer settings? Do both printers have exactly the same part cooling?

WilcoE

@dc42 said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

How does that compare with the one produced by the other printer? Are they both printed using the same slicer and slicer settings? Do both printers have exactly the same part cooling?

Yes, same slicer and also same gcode.
Both printers have exaclty the same part cooling

All printers are stock but, my printer is:
Ender 3
Duet Wifi
BLTouch
BMG Clone Extruder

And the printer of my friend is:
Ender 3 Pro
SKR 1.3 Board
BLTouch

i realigned my z axis and I loosened my Y belt and fixed again.
now printing with my Ender 3 printer and the same PLA filement color blue.

Also saw that my M566 jerk settings where not in my config anymore. So changed it back to: M566 X480 Y480 Z100 E30000

bartolomeus

@WilcoE said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@dc42 said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

How does that compare with the one produced by the other printer? Are they both printed using the same slicer and slicer settings? Do both printers have exactly the same part cooling?

Yes, same slicer and also same gcode.
Both printers have exaclty the same part cooling

All printers are stock but, my printer is:
Ender 3
Duet Wifi
BLTouch
BMG Clone Extruder

And the printer of my friend is:
Ender 3 Pro
SKR 1.3 Board
BLTouch

i realigned my z axis and I loosened my Y belt and fixed again.
now printing with my Ender 3 printer and the same PLA filement color blue.

Also saw that my M566 jerk settings where not in my config anymore. So changed it back to: M566 X480 Y480 Z100 E30000

E30000?

WilcoE

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

E30000?

Yes, that was also in my first config post.
Should i change that also to 480?

bartolomeus

@WilcoE said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

E30000?

Yes, that was also in my first config post.
Should i change that also to 480?

Not 480, but 30000 is too high. Maybe start with 600 or so for the bmg clone. Actually I don't know the recommend jerk setting for BMG but 30000 is too high.

WilcoE

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

Not 480, but 30000 is too high. Maybe start with 600 or so for the bmg clone. Actually I don't know the recommend jerk setting for BMG but 30000 is too high.

Ok, see on the forum some topics and i will try E2000
Again thanks for your help!

WilcoE

Well... the print is much better.

bartolomeus

@WilcoE great! Which temp did you use? The print is very shiny, looks like you printed fairly hot

WilcoE

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@WilcoE great! Which temp did you use? The print is very shiny, looks like you printed fairly hot

yes, i like it 210.. going try it with 195 just to test what the results are

WilcoE

Results with lower temp is the same only less shiny

WilcoE

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@WilcoE If the cube is out of dimension, and e steps are correct, you should calibrate flow. Don't change x,y,z steps.

Hi bartolomeus,

The quality of the print is now better, but the dimension's are not correct.
How can i fix this? The steps are still 80 for y and x and 400 for z.

Thanks!

dc42

@WilcoE said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@WilcoE If the cube is out of dimension, and e steps are correct, you should calibrate flow. Don't change x,y,z steps.

Hi bartolomeus,

The quality of the print is now better, but the dimension's are not correct.
How can i fix this? The steps are still 80 for y and x and 400 for z.

Thanks!

How far out are the dimensions - what are the measured and expected values?