@davidbitton, you are probably not raising the carriage high enough or fast enough after the first probe. The probe height is the H parameter of M558, and the travel speed (non-probing speed) is the T parameter.

On my printer I use [c]M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F100 T7000[/c].

BLTouch will go into alarm if it does not have enough space to deploy the pin completely, and when RRF is probing, the pin is immediately redeployed while Z is raising, it does not wait until the carriage is at the next probing point (in contrast to Marlin which will retract during travel moves).

Cheers,
Ben.

PS: I don't know what happened to Calvinx, he manually deleted all of his posts. For the BLTouch at least his info is still on the Wiki.

Awesome, thanks

ok thanks at all

@MasterOfDesaster:

Yep, that was it sigh

I thought reversing motor direction on y should only be if you want to move y back and it goes forth or so. Another thing learned ^^

Thx 🙂

Yes you are sort of correct but David made a change to the firmware with 1.19 because, prior to that, Duet firmware was different to every other firmware in this respect. So, those of us with CoreXYs have had to reverse the motor direction to make it the same as it was on older firmware versions. (Not sure if I've made it clearer or just muddied the waters more). Anyway, just remember that if you revert back to an earlier firmware version, you may have to reverse the direction of the Y motor again.

Will that be implemented in future firmware? I think it would continue to build upon the idea of U map to X and V map to Z

Thanks,
Stephen

I work in an aerospace tooling company, and we regularly build thermocouple extensions up to ~25', and many of the thermocouples themselves are already 10-15' long, so your printer shouldn't have an issue with wire length.

Regarding making them, as Edkirk was saying, just make sure you have a good connection between the two wires, but ONLY at the end, where you want to measure the temperature.
My work uses a specialized TIG welder to fuse the wires, but there are many methods for field expedient joints.

Whatever you do, make sure that you have the right type of thermocouple.
The boards are designed to work with Type-K thermocouples, so plugging in a Type-J, for instance, would throw the readings off completely.

One last thought: Also, if you are making, or buying, a complete new thermocouple, make sure to buy stranded wire if it will be moving. The cheaper solid wire does not like flexing, and will break in short order.

The DueX4 expansion pins that are available are listed at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pins. What I can't remember is which ones (if any) are servo-capable. Any that are could drive the bltouch directly because it seems to be happy with a 3.3V signal.

Other than that, all of your suggestions sound suitable. For a level shifter, a small signal diode and pullup resistor to +5V would probably be sufficient.

Thanks dc42. I am still waiting for the ir sensor to arrive (as well as the duet display), so I am in manual mode for leveling the bed at the moment.

Thanks for explaining the posts that I read about using the E1 output. I may use that in the future, but for now I'm taking the path of least complexity until I get this printer set up.
Tim

Thank you…
You are right... didn't notice that expansion headers heater pins could be reserved for something else with M307...
I think I will use the M42 for my purpose... should be rather easy to implement on post processor...

So to summarize best course of action is:
1. First disable expansion header heaters with M307
2. Then you can use M42 for driving them.
3. For 5V Pwm it's easiest to use 3.3V -> 5V Logic level converter as interface https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12009

Good to hear you got it going.

I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. Is the board completely dead, or just the fan outputs?

I suggest you use the 12V 30A PSU, with the voltage turned up a little if you need more heat. Use the trigorilla board to switch it if you have one already, but you don't have to. There are instructions for using a separate PSU for the bed heater on the wiki.

Thanks !

As it looks like you have managed to remove the old terminal block without damaging the PCB, you might consider fitting a new terminal block. It's a standard size 32A one AFAIR.

I suggest you check the PCB temperature in the vicinity of the soldered joints you have made when the heaters are running at full power.

Today I updated the Firmware, Wifi Server and Web Interface to 1.19 and AJAX problems started. The board could only stay connected for like 10 seconds. Luckily I was able to fix it. What worked for me was changing the Wifi transmission channel of the router to "1" (it was set to "automatic"). If you don't know which channel to use, then download this program:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
It's a free tool and you don't need to install it. Once you launch it, it will scan the wireless networks in your area and display a lot of info about them. Locate the Channel header, and click it to sort by Wi-Fi channel. Switch to the less crowded one. 1, 6 and 11 are the most frequently used.

Hope it helps.

EDIT: oh… you tried this already =(

Try with nothing connected, could be your endstop.wires are shorting

This is working. Thank you. Only issue is that it will still run while the ATX power is off, but this will do until i have a replacement for it.

I had a board which had been damaged and some of the thermistor channels would read fixed values no matter what I did with them (usually 2000 degC) but if you haven't had a short of other issue and vssa is not blown then that seems unlikely. How have you got your themistors etc.. configured?

@pcb355

If I may step in here because my CoreXY has almost exactly the same bed dimensions - 400 x 400 x 10mm thick tooling plate. I don't use any form of software/firmware bed levelling or flatness compensation because there is no need. If the bed is flat, it doesn't need to be compensated and if it's level and stays level, there is no need to adjust. Having started with a Mendel built from a kit, and having to do all sorts of compensation before every print, I can say that life is now so much easier. Now I just turn on the printer, select a file and hit print - the start gcode takes care of the heating and initial homing.

I'm not saying all this because of any desire to boast or brag, merely that you are in an ideal position to achieve the same results. If you use 3 lead screws (my recommendation would be to avoid course lead, multi start screws) spaced such that one screw is near front left, another is near front right and the third is in the centre at the rear you can lift the bed with a continuous belt and a single Nema 17. Trust me, it works. The screws should only provide lift and should not be used to constrain the bed. This should be done by using linear guides. You only need two - one at each diagonally opposite corner. To initially level the bed, I simply slacken the grub screws holding the toothed pulley on to the screw, and rotate the screws. This only needs to be done once when it's first assembled, then maybe once again after a few hours of use.

You might find my blog useful, particularly this page https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/my-corexy-printer-build/

HTH

1. Correct. Stop/3v3/gnd are a set of endstop connector pins, exactly the same as on the Duet.

2. Any of the 4 endstop inputs on the X4.

3. All heater and fan outputs are whatever voltage you feed to the Vin terminals. There are no flyback diodes on the heater and fan outputs, so if you connect a relay coil, brushed DC motor of other inductive load, you must add a flyback diode.

4. I haven't seen any filament tension sensors either. We'll consider adding a "beep until acknowledged" option to the M291 command.

4. Use M581 to set up a macro to execute when one of the input pins changes state. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pins for how to control output pins.