That sounds like you should decrease either your acceleration, your instantaneous speed change setting, or both, for your z axis. As well, you should determine a maximum speed for that axis and set it appropriately. Ideally, any g-code should result in a permitted amount of movement without error, even if the gcode requests parameters outside of the physical viability of the printer mechanics.

Thanks for the solution dc42. Moving forward again now. Thanks raykholo for the reprap post (good info), and the x-y axis correction indeed.
Ive got some pictures but its already in pieces now. As far as cubepro stock internals, most of what I know are hot end/steeper specs but I did use an e3dv6 hot end while "stock". Stepper motors are motion control m42sth47-1684sc-s (fl42sth47-1684a-01 new version?). The TCO ("Thermal cut-off"-white square wired in series with the heater element) is a 145c 2a h145, I used a panasonic eyp2bh145 in replacement. The thermistor is 230k (resting at 209.2k at 72 deg), I used TE Connectivity 231k digikey pn 223-1180-ND (TE pn GC2315R-3-200) witch required drilling of the e3dv6 thermistor hole as the 231k bead was slightly larger. The e3dv6 heater I used was a 24v 30w wired with the TCO in series. That is about all I have but I hope its useful.

@DADIY:

@zov:

Thank you, DADIY! I've already got two 2060 and two 2020 extrusions cut to size as side walls of base triangle so I'going to find solution with them.

What about mounting it like this, and just passing the cables through the slot.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998280

I'm going to implement something like that for the moment.

Yes, that was the issue. I upgraded my firmware to 1.20beta4 and tested pause and resume. They work without issues.
Thanks!

Hello,
New to this forum.
Been looking for a aluminum effector for my DIY Delta build. I really like the 713maker E3D V6 mount and Effector, but the Effector is not compatible with Haydn Huntley's magnetic arms and balls. Yours looks like it will work great.
Is it possible to order one of those effector plates from you or 713maker?

Yes that should work. If the fan has a brushed motor, connect a flyback diode in parallel with it.

By default, each heater is controlled by the thermistor associated with that channel. You can change that using the X parameter in the M305 command for that heater.

@patel:

Thank for reply
Can you explain how to update firmware. I am new use

If you are new, then i strongly advice you to read the wiki
a couple of times before you proceed.
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_main_firmware

If you still don't undersand it ,then ask what the problem specific is and you will get help fast here.
But you can't expect people will write down the whole procedure for you here on the forum,
if it is nicely explained in the wiki.

Please be more specific.

The only reasons I can think of why the Y motor direction would change are:

1. Firmware - as noted above, I made a change between 1.18 and 1.19, to bring RRF in line with other firmwares.

2. A change to the M569 commands in config.g, or an M569 command in some other file that is getting executed. [But AFAIK, no slicers generate M569.]

3. Reversing the Y motor connector, or swapping the wires of one of the phases in the Y motor connector. This could happen if you changed the Y motor cable.

I can confirm that it's a 1K 0603 resistor.

Those course screws could be the problem as you need a lot more torque than with a finer lead. However, try 20 for your acceleration (M201) and jerk (M566) settings and 300 for your maximum speed (M203).

BTW, with that lead on your screws don't use layer heights that are uneven numbers. Assuming you are using 16X micro stepping, then 400 steps per mm equate to 25 full steps per mm so 0.1mm would be 2.5 full steps and therefore you would be relying on micro stepping for positional accuracy. A layer height of 0.2 mm would be 5 full steps which is OK but 0.3 mm would be 7.5 full steps which is not good whilst 0.4mm would be 10 full steps which again, is OK.

Those multi start screws that many people think area good idea are one of my pet hates. Personally I'd ditch them and replace them with 0.2 or 0.1 mm lead single start screws which would cure all your problems as well as improving the positional accuracy. I did a little write up on my blog explaining why https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/01/31/z-axis-lead-screws/

Here's the STEP file for the board.
https://grabcad.com/library/duet-wifi-1

You didn't embed the image, you embedded the site, therefore the image doesn't display in your post.

A 2.8A rated stepper motor is a good match for a Duet Wifi, as generally one shouldn't exceed 85% of rated current on a stepper.

Answered by email. But we ship worldwide.

I'm sorry, you appear to have received a faulty Duet. My guess is that there is a bad soldered joint on the SPI data output from driver 0. Either that, or the driver chip itself has a fault on that pin. Please ask for your Duet to be replaced under warranty.

Hello

with this cheap Crimping tool it works
looking for: IZOKEE Crimpzange

last night I tundes my CR-10 with duet wifi - with original Case - works
works great - using the ext. Mosfet from CR-10

the printer is no Silent - great
and works up to 300MM/sec !!!

Hi,

I have a Bltouch, and after cut the track and lower the voltage in white pin, I have measured with a multimeter, and the tension is 3.1…. It's suficient for fire Z Probe?

I found something which appears to make my Duet behave.
At the end of config.g I added the following
Now homing works reliably, I no longer have B (2nd Z axis fail to home, basically fixed the glitchiness I was seeing)
I don't really know why toggling Z 1 micron fixes things, but it does.
Can you implement M17 gcode command, then I wouldn't need to do that weird micron move
T0
G91
G1 Z0.01
G4 S5
G90
M300 S300 P2000
M18

Thank you.

It did! Yay! Almost an 1.02 board now. Hehe

Hello

modified JST connectors are fitting on Molex,
but not really good.

So I had buy an new crimping tool für mini jst/molex usw…. 😞
(the good ones - 300,- - an cheaper for 25,- amazon-de)

would be nice to buy finished Molex kk - JSt 6-pin cables and other

Ingo