@Tinchus said in Duet3 and Expansion board channel / trigger question:

My question is: if Im printing, I guess the main duet3 board will be "busy" handling the printing, si how fast it will be the detection of the sensor connected to IO_3 on the expansion board, will be instantly deteted or I can expect some "delay" beicause the duet3 board is doing the print?
Also: when the triggered is executed, this execution of the .g file will run in parallel with the print or I can have some risk of the print being stopped for a second while executing that trigger and then the gcode will be resumed?

Triggers are pretty much instant, but it will depend on what is being executed at that moment. If it's a single long move, it would normally wait for that gcode command to complete. You can configure it to segment long moves into shorter moves, which would shorten the time to trigger.

At the moment the print would pause while your trigger macro is executed. I believe part of the 3.5 firmware update will introduce multiple gcode streams, but I'm not 100% on how that will play out in practice. Keep an eye out.

That looks like a pretty plain microswitch. I can't tell from the photo if it's wired normally open or normally closed, but if you follow that linked document you should have no trouble using those.

@Herve_Smith yes
daemon.g is probably the place to do it https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcode_meta_commands
something along the lines of

if heat.heaters[1].current > 200 M42 P0 S1 else M42 P0 S0

thats basically saying if the temperature reading on heater 1 is greater than 200 degrees then turn on the LED, if not then turn it off

The piezo board should receive power from the Duet.
you are using the Z probe in connector on the Duet right?

I canged the z/E1 output MA from 800 to 1600 and it is much happier (0nly cost me 100gbp to not fix this!).

Seems it needed more current. will relube and see how she runs!

@BryanPlummer I presume you are looking to connect to the UART through one of the IO connectors. All IO_IN ports will tolerate up to 30V, so 5V from a device is no problem. However the signal level on the IO_OUT port is 3.3V and that may not be enough for a 5V device.

@Phaedrux said in DUEX 0.11:

I can't see any damage. It's a mosfet, so you can test it with a multimeter, but be very careful not to short anything out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tL7bQuJaXKA

Thanks for the answer. You are always available and always pay attention to me

@PUSSY

Does the SD card you are trying to use in SD1 (screen slot) work in SD0 (board slot)?

Make sure the SD card is formatted to FAT16 if the card size is less than 4gb or FAT32 for larger cards. Cards larger than 32gb need specific formatting for compatibility. See https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/SD_card

If this does not resolve the issue, more specific information on which screen / board you have, and how the wiring is setup would be helpful to troubleshoot.

@jay_s_uk ahhh brilliant, thank you very much for this! Thats helped alot thank you!

@jay_s_uk Awesome. So it' just 5v/GND and the STEP/DIR inputs. Worst case scenario I can hook up with a handful of female-female breadboard connectors from the Stepper10/11 connector on the Duet Wifi.

Thanks a LOT!

@dc42 will the RRF ever support it?
The wiki page says that "Note that axes are mapped in the order XYZUVWABC, where X=0, Y=1, Z=2, U=3 etc, not by driver number, so X0:3 means 'map axis 0 (X) and 3 (U) to X'." I mean, if Z axis don't work this information is misleading... I actually made a whole machine based on this 😞

Finally I use the endstop reassignment with M574 and i can read the status with M119 command
Thank for your help!

I've been happily using usb c pd to run my printer on 20v. I'm currently configured for a LDM extruder so no hot end, and the steppers and electronics are running at about 20 watts including some lights. Noctua makes PWM versions of most of their fans in 5v, so I've been using those to avoid having to do a 12 or 24 v circuit. That all seems well within the range and duty cycle of a good 90 or 100w GaN usb c power supply.

Functionally, it doesn't really achieve anything that having the larger power supply didn't, but being able to find a screw when I drop it in the case and reducing the wiring clutter I had before was worth all the work!

Even when I had the hot end on, I never used the bed heater. It seems a lot greener to just use a little glue stick and my prints came out better.

@Lexan yes to controlling from the toolboard. you'd either have to run a separate 5v cable or mount a stepdown converter on the toolhead

@dieguito those pins connect directly to the microcontroller, so negative voltages are unsafe and may damage it.

@dc42

Quote: "...make sure the endstops are consistent with the motors. Looking at the machine from the front, the X tower should be on the left, the Y tower on the right and the Z tower at the back."

This is what was wrong with my setup. PXL_20221111_014900914.jpg

It seems the wiring was mislabeled from the very beginning.

Now the homing works correctly.

Solved.

@BryanPlummer it's a little hard to tell from your photo, but I think you have the red and white wires plugged into the wrong pins on the Duet. They should go to pins 8 and 6 respectively, but I think you have connected them to pins 10 and 8.

Share your homeall.g and homez.g if you want a sanity check on your homing.

@o_lampe

Why the negative vote?

Which negative? 😊

@Phaedrux
Yes, something was wrong alright. They were only in my macros.
A profoundly stupid oversight of mine. it works as it should now. Thanks for pointing this out, I could have been looking for a really long time...
I'll get back in my lair now, a little more embarrassed then before.

Thanks everyone!

Grtz,
Alexander