Topics created by vacalos

@vacalos said in Solder PT100 wires to Smart Effector:

I suspect the crimped PT100 connections may cause an intermittently poor electrical connection which results in Heater Faults.

If properly crimped, they work fine. I crimp mine with a very inexpensive crimp tool. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/

Assembly Lines use much more expensive ratcheting crimpers, and that's what gets documented as the "required" or "proper" crimper.

For a hobbiest, who is not in a hurry, the flat crimpers (linked) produce EXCELLENT crimps for a very low investment.

I was wondering if anyone has soldered the PT100 sensor wires to the smart effector.
If so, how did you get to the pins underneath the molex style connector on the effector?

If you do choose to go this route, I'd un-solder the molex connector entirely, and solder all the wires into the holes where it was.

As already suggested, it very much depends on the machine. It could be anywhere from 0.1 to 1.0. After running some calibration from these forums, pay attention to your prints. Blobby corners -> increase PA. Rounded corners -> decrease PA. Make sure the Bowden tube sits as firmly as possible.

@manoam That is super cool. great solution.

@lb said in Grounding PT100 to eliminate heater faults:

Question to the whole forum: Could anybody give me a hint how to come up with a macro that optimizes the fan(s)- & heater-frequency to something that has the least possibility to interfere with the PT100-frequency?

See my reply in the other thread.

@sonderzug Are you using a water-cooled extruder?

It's already isolated to the heater circuit. Either the heater isn't getting hot or the temperature sensor is giving false readings or less likely, both.

Inspect the wiring to the heater and temperature sensor, including connectors/screw terminals. Make sure the heater and sensor are solidly coupled to the heater block. Check power supply voltage with the heater on and off- it should not change more than 0.1V or so). Sometimes a cable will become intermittent due to flexing too much, especially if you bend the cables in a tight radius using a drag chain. Check the resistance of the heater and the sensor at the controller end of the cable. When you check the resistance, flex the cables back and forth- the resistance should not change.