Topics created by toddwagner

Best option is to connect them directly to the power supply. If they draw no more than 2A total then you can connect them to an always on fan connector instead. If it is a version 1.03 Duet and you connect them to the always on fan connector, you may need to increase the rating of the fuse.

The numbers should be equal when the printer is idle. Do you have a sequence of operations that leaves them not equal?

Added to the work list.

Check that the VIN terminal block screws are still tight and do no show any signs of charring. Also check the power wires at the other end where they connect to the power supply. Make sure that the wires don't get hot when the Duet is running, in particular when the bed heater is running at full power.

If your mains voltage is 110V/120V, check whether the PSU has a 240V/120V input voltage selector switch, and if so that it is set to the correct position (don't move it with mains power connected!).

If all those check pass, you need a new PSU. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_the_power_supply.

Well, I have a qualified success after all of this time!

I raised the amperage to 1450 mA in the config file for the 0.9° steppers I got from Ulitbots (rated at 1.68A), and that helped to get rid of the banding substantially.

After that, I added some 50K diff lube (from RC cars) to the ball joints at the end of my Trick Laser arms and MAN what a difference that made.

The results of my bed mesh calibration looked nearly identical to yours before these changes, and here is the result now:

Bed Level Photo

I have yet to print anything with this result, but it is a huge improvement that I wanted to make sure I shared!

Happy printing and thanks for the advice dc42!!