Posts made by timcurtis67

Hi,
Our company bought a Fusion3 F410 recently. I recommended it because it uses a Duet2 controller board. I have a few in my printers at home.

Anyway when we try to upload a large program 40+ meg we keep getting an ajax error.

The DWC uploads, says upload complete. But then goes into an ajax error right away. Every time I reconnect to the printer it say the same ajax error and disconnects.

I know fusion is behind on there firmware levels. I can't tell what version they are actually on because it is "their own firmware". The date is from 2015 and I can see many good features missing compared to my firmware level I am running at home.

Anyway, Is there or was there ever a file size limit on print programs? Is it a bad sd card?

Any thoughts?

P.S. It does the same thing with a 20 meg program. I have never had issues at home with files sizes in the past?

@spoonunit
Nice work. I'm looking forward to trying some of this out.

I run some fairly large production runs on my printers.

Thank you for sharing this.

@bak
Are you using Z hop with your retracts? It looks like a serious mechanical issue with your Z axis. Something is either loose or binding.

I would start checking all mechancial connections related to Z axis. Stepper mounts, coupler's or pullys. Loose lead screw, lead screw nut loose or stripped. ect,

@fma
I have a 450mm X 450mm bed (.250" thick) on 2 lead screws with 8mm travel per revolution. They are the 4 start style lead screws. I drive it with a nema 23 stepper.

No issues with the bed dropping when the power is off but I can push it down with some slight pressure.

@o_lampe
Looking good!

@visionary
Different extruders shouldn't matter if the are calibrated correctly.

So if you just print the tower with tool 0 and then print a tower with the other tool 1 do they both look the same? Do they both have the same measurements when compared?

@visionary said in Bad print quality with dual prints vs. single extruder prints:

@alex-cr
@timcurtis67

• All layers are printed counter clockwise.

• My printing extruder temperatures vary quite a bit, maybe about 4-6 degrees of overshoot and 3-4 degrees max under. I'll try add extra waiting commands (maybe about 10s) after each temperature reach to test how this affects print quality. For some reason Auto PID tuning didn't give very good results for my heaters, but I'll try run it again.

• Print material is ABS with 242 Celsius temp.

• Both towers are printed separately with only one extruder extruding at once.

• I try not use Z-hop and other backlash causing settings on Z-axis.

• I probably should re-tune PA, although it used to be ok.

Also you need a good PID tune first on both heads to get good printed parts. Why wasn't autotune working well? What errors did you get?

@visionary So your heads are set the same off of the table? No G10 Z offset for Tool1?

@visionary said in Bad print quality with dual prints vs. single extruder prints:

For some reason my prints that use both extruders look awful. Corners look more jagged and even straight lines are not consistent from layer to layer.

I printed two one wall towers (taller tower in the picture) about 50mm apart from each other and used extruder 0 for the other and extruder 1 for the other. The other tower was about 40% shorter (extr0 tower). It is easy to see at which height the other tower was completed.

Printer I use is Duet 3 with RRF 3.2 configured to IDEX.

I can't figure what could cause this.

Did you print 2 towers at the same time (ditto printing)?

Or were you switching heads for each tower by level?

I ditto print all the time with my IDEX with no issues.

If you are printing by switching heads then are the heads even off of the bed or do you have an offset in one of them? You could have a Z backlash issue. The heads are constantly changing the Z axis for the tool offsets.

The other issues on the part look like pressure advance settings to me.

@DIY-O-Sphere said in Can Anyone Share Their HEVO Configs?:

@justinds89 said in Can Anyone Share Their HEVO Configs?:

1 - BLTouch when turning on the printer will sometimes just blink red and not deploy/retract probe.

I had exactly the same issue, that was driving me crazy....
Check the Pin
"Try loosening or tightening the set screw slightly to adjust the trigger sensitivity."

The description how to set up the srew is in the manual
In the end a quarter turn had reliably solved the problem.

+1 that fixed my issue I had with one of my BL's doing the same thing.

@o_lampe said in 'The Hitchhiker' = IDEX for *everyone* ?:

@timcurtis67

Yes that looks great. Nema14 is strong enough for direct drive? The V-wheels act as idlers too and the belt runs in the extrusion slot? Amazing...
What's your travel speed with these direct drive extruder?

Thanks,
The nema 14's move the heads in the X axis (and U axis for the IDEX part). But I have the max travel speeds set at 300mms for rapid moves. Never had any issues with missed steps thus far. I use regular nema 17's to drive my direct drive extruders. I have had titam aero heads, bondtech direct drives and now currently hemera heads on this Y axis bar.

Yes the V wheels are the belt idlers.

The set up or conversion is very easy, Just lock a section of belt down inside the groove of the v slot with a tee nut on each end along with a set screw in the tee nuts. The set screw pinches the belt down to the bottom of the slot. My belt hasn't slipped in 3 years of printing, many hours on this configuration so far.

Do you mean something like this? Rack & Pinion type drives with one belt?

I use nema 14's to drive my X & U heads on one belt. Been working great for years.

@dc42 said in Question: G1 Moves with Specified Tool WITHOUT Toolchanging:

You can use the G53 prefix to command a movement in machine coordinates.

@NeueKlasse said in Question: G1 Moves with Specified Tool WITHOUT Toolchanging:

for example G1 T0 X100 or G1 T1 X20
without changing the Actual Tool.
Most CNC Machines work like that.

I've not heard of CNC machines behaving like that, and it certainly isn't NIST-standard.

I would do the moves in G53 as @dc42 suggested. CNC machines use the machine coordinate system (G53) for tool changes and other certain moves. It happens in the background on certain controls so you may not see how it is happening, but they most defiantly reference the machine coordinates because it is consistent un-changeable coordinate.

Shouldn't the X offset for Tool 4 be in the same direction as the X offset for tool 2? 2 is set to the positive direction and 4 is set to the negative.

I believe all tool offsets are based from tool # 1. At least that is how I have mine set up.

Also, did you try reversing the Y values on tool 3 an 4?

@barbarossa-cologne said in Revolver-Filament-Change:

Sorry for the late reply and thanks for the help.
So I have an angle of 18deg... which are 10 steps. I changed the angle to work with easier numbers.

I made a little trick..
I just say (even it´s not true) that steps/mm are 10 AND resulted to it I just say that the that the holes are 1mm away from each other.

Steps/mm: 10 = 18deg angle
Angle to change Filament: 18deg
Angle between T1 hole and endstop= 18deg

I think I don´t have problems with the calculation.
What I need is more the G-codes procedure, which I think is something like:
Pause --> retract 50mm --> turn 18deg / 10 steps --> push filament back inside.

thank you so much!

SO are you saying that the part revolves 18 degrees when you apply 10 steps? Are you including the micro stepping?

What is your M350 set at for this axis?
Also what is your M92 set at for this axis?

Both should be in your config file.

10 steps is not very much. I would bump up your micro stepping (M350) to give you a higher steps per mm.

Anyway using your numbers your movement command would be this, G1 U1.0 F100. This would move the axis 1mm (18 degrees) in the positive direction. This also assumes you are calling the rotary axis "U"

You will have to set up which way is positive and negative in you config file.

So a G1 U1.0 would get you to the first hole, G1 U2.0 would get you to the second hole, G1 U3.0 would get you to the third hole.

As long as you stay in G90 then which ever U position you call up will take you to that hole. Make sense to you?

@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:

@timcurtis67
The heat-bed plate looks great. What thickness did you manage to get. The thinnest I found was 5mm. It will be a bit heavier but with ball-screws it will be more powerful...

I used a 1/4" thick plate for my build. 18" X 18" X .250"

That is a very nice looking extruder. Dual drive for the filament?

@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:

@timcurtis67
What did you do for the heat-bed? Aluminum plate? I am a bit concerned about the possibility of warping with the heat pad under the plate and losing the flatness...

Here is what I use for my bed.
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5

It is very stable when heating. I do have it leveled at 70C. I usually run anywhere from 60C-70C while printing. I used the 1/4" thick plate.

@droftarts said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:

@mendelevium Can you post your config.g, or at least the part that has the motor configuration? I think you're just trying to run the Z axis too fast for the motors, or possibly you have the microstepping set too high. Generally, you do not need to move the Z very fast; F100 is 1.6mm/s, F500 is 8.3mm/s and F1000 is 16.6mm/s, which would be extraordinarily fast for Z! However, it does sound like the existing Z motors are not strong enough for the job.

Ian

On larger printers we need faster Z drives. If I home my printer to Z positive (Z +465.00) then start a print it would take over 4 minutes for the table to move up into print position at F100 (1.6mm a second). I typically move my Z at 1200-1500. Works well for Z hops too. I don't add too much time to my prints z hopping during retracts.

Or maybe I just need more patience

@mendelevium I use a ac120 volt silicon pad stuck to the bottom of my bed. It is a 750 watt heater. The heater I run is similar to this one,https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70.

It heats up quickly. It is powered through an SSR controlled by the duet board.
If you go that route look into adding a thermal fuse inline to one of the power wires going directly to the bed heater. That way if the SSR ever fails you won't burn you house or business down. SSR's fail in the closed position which will keep your bed heater heating up even if the duet tries to shut it off. They come in different temp settings. Once they blow you have to replace them, as they can't be reset. Good cheap insurance.

It has a built in thermistor which works fine. If you drill a small hole in the side of your bed plate you can add another thermistor in the small hole and get a better overall temp reading of the bed.

Also buy a good SSR, not a cheap Chinese knockoff. I've been set up this way for several years on my large printer. It runs almost 24/7 everyday cranking out parts.

Your printers sound nice, post some pictures when you get them running.

@mendelevium said in Motors for duet 2 wifi:

just to indicate my level of understanding on the matter, I own and run a CNC machine shop with various Vertical machining and turning centers/eroders/wire cut machines, programming and servicing for around 35 years.
This printer is one of two prototypes I designed and manufactured and spent much time with it. I wish to maybe market in the future. It is made entirely of metal,

I'm hearing you, I have a similar background to you. I've been a toolmaker for over 30 years, designed my own printers ect. I would try the 60mm Nema 17 first since it is easier to make that swap then going to a Nema 23.
But I will say that one of my printers has a 450mm bed with twin lead screws driven by a long belt with a single motor. The bed is .250" jig plate with a PEI surface so I don't have the added weight of the glass you have. I also run 4 start threads on my lead screws which give me 8mm of travel per revolution.

I put a Nema 23 motor from the start and never had and issues with high speed Z travels. I home away from the head to Z max positive so I need the high speed travels to get the table up to the printing area after homing. As I said, I never had any issues with skipped steps of the bed not moving. I also don't have to worry with bed mesh leveling, once the plate is dialed in flat (at temp) it remains flat.

You may end up going to the larger Nema 23 stepper in the long run.

-edit- Almost forgot, I run all my printers on 24V, It's better overall on motor and hotend heater performance.