Posts made by Stephenbright

@Stephenbright said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

How do I set these to Auto? I'm guessing that is the Thermostatic setting? Thoughts on what to set that to?

@Phaedrux Where is that specifically?

How should I configure this to make the nozzle fan use FAN 1 instead of FAN 2 ? Comment out the second line and switch the 3rd line from P2 to P1?

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

The fan fuse is for all the fans.

Don't flip the fan connectors. The board is marked with polarity and your fan should be too. connecting a fan with reversed polarity is a good way to kill the mosfet or the fan or both. If it works in the always on port, then the fan is good and the polarity is correct and your cable is good and the voltage is set correctly.

If you've connected to the correct fan port and have sent the M106 command to turn on the fan but nothing happens, then the mosfet for that fan port is likely damaged.

If that is the case you can potentially replace the mosfet if you're competent with that sort of thing. Or you can use a different fan output if available. It might make sense to put the hotend heatsink fan on the always on port and use a working PWM port for the part cooling fan. If you're still short of fan headers but had a free heater connector you could repurpose that as a fan header.

@dc42

I didn't know what else to do so I just hit the reset button as I wanted to try one last thing before I exchanged the board and finally FAN 1 tuned right on with full controllability. This was in FAN 1 as opposed to the stock FAN 2 position. I powered down and then switched back to FAN 2 to check it and it was still not working.

I'm okay with using a different port, but any thoughts on why the reset button worked and why FAN 2 is still down? Basically, if FAN 1 is working I should be fine correct? Is their separate Mosfets for each port or should FAN 2 be working if FAN 1 is?

Thanks !

@dc42 said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

Are you definitely still using RepRapFirmware 2.x, not 3.x ?

Question: The fuse for the FAN section is for all of the fans correct? At this point I'm open to any suggestions.

I can exchange this board for another one, but I want to make sure that if I get a new one that It works and if I made a mistake somewhere that I don't do that again...

Is there any possible way that I need to flip the connectors over? I know it seams odd since the always on fan works but I had to flip all of the motor connectors of due to the build of the Maestro vs the Wifi boards...

As always THANK YOU !

@dc42

Diagnostics
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23

** I used a multimeter on the cable as well to make sure there were no shorts and it was good.

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

Running the fans in parallel is a bit better than running 2 in series. I've done it on occasion, but it does mean the fans may not behave exactly as they would plugged in solo.

In a parallel circuit, the voltage across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component.

So as long as your two fans aren't huge current draws (most fans aren't) you should be ok.

The fan still does not turn on after I tried sending the Gcode...

The new 24v fan is working 100% but not in port 0, 1 or 2. I'm only trying to run one fan at the moment not the two just to make sure I can get this working...

Until now I've never plugged anything in to port 0 or 1, so if I messed up Port 2 in the beginning it would mess up ports 0 and 1 as well?

Aforementioned the first set of fans were only 5v so it would be odd that this board is that sensitive and blown mosfet chip and damage the board vs just blowing up the fan???

Is there an issue with the F500 setting? From the factory is was set at F4, but on the mfg forum, everyone said to set that to F500...

M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3

If the mosfets are damaged ( in the picture they look fine ) what are the options? Can I just plug it into a always on port?

Also can I plug the fan directly into the board to make sure the cable isn't the issue correct? I'm going to use a multimeter as well, but I want to make sure the pins aren't coming out when I push the plug in...

@Phaedrux The new fans are rated Voltage:24V 0.06A each for the two fans. It was a poor design on the part of the printer manufacturer to have the dual 5v fans on one port for such a large printer in the first place... I'll update the process soon. Thanks !

@droftarts

I didn't realize when I started to reconfigured my machine that I didn't update the DWC. I'll do that.

Also the 24v fans came in today. With my new 24v fans they are currently 2 separate fans, can I run those in parallel and they would both get 24v correct? Basically two fans into one port, red wire to red wire and black wire to black wire? Thoughts?

** The stock nozzle fans were 2 separate 5v fans in parallel into one port so I would guess they were both getting 5v?

Thoughts?

@droftarts

Firmware: 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)

DWC: 1.22.1

None of the Mosfets look blown. Again it's a new board and I haven't printed anything as soon as I noticed that the nozzle fans were not on. I realize is can blow quick but with the fuses and the lower voltage fan, I would think the fuse or the fan would blow before anything else...

I had the 5v fans installed and I know those were probably blown due to the jumper not set the same as a Maestro from the factory...

No I did not type the gcode in the address bar...

I have 24v fans coming, but I wanted to make sure they were working so I am trying to work with the 2 - 12v fans. I thought they would at least work so I know the board is set up correctly. Long term yes I will use the 24v fans. I can install them and can report back then as I don't want to do any damage...

Until then I had tried to send the gcode you suggested while the fan was plugged into P2 only. I didn't want to try the other ports until I get the 24v fans **

When I type :

M106 P2 S1 H-1 ; Fan2

I get :

PMM106 P1 S0
PMM106 P0 S0
PMM106 S0

Then a JAVA error and DWC disconnects?

Thank you !

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

M106 P1 S1 H-1

Do I insert that into the config file? I just sent the G code ( which gave me a java script error )

If for some reason that port was bad I can run it from fan F0 or F1 correct?

@Phaedrux From what I understand and what I've tested wiring the 2 - 12v fans in series to draw 24 v worked and does work for now. I plugged it into the always on port and it worked.

Is there something you can see in my config file Maestro related that I forgot to change or that I need to remove for the Wifi board to function properly? Fan or otherwise?

; CONFIGURATION FILE for Duet Maestro
; Compound Nozzle

; Executed by the firmware on start-up

; Headers within parenthesis are headings in Duet3D documentation=https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer
; Visit https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code for an explanation of G-code commands

; --- SECTION: GENERAL PREFERENCES ( ) ---

M564 S1 H1 ; Enables Homing Requirement For Motor Activation and set axes limits

; --- SECTION: Z-PROBE & MESH COMPENSATION ---

M98 Pmachine_zprobe.g ; configure the z probe

M98 Pmachine_bedmesh.g ; configure the bed mesh

G29 S1 ; Load heightmap after power cycle

; --- SECTION: DRIVES (MOVEMENT SECTION) & ENDSTOPS ---

M667 S1 ; Enable coreXY mode
M569 P0 S0 D2 ; Drive 0 goes forwards, CoreXY_1
M569 P1 S1 D2 ; Drive 1 goes forwards, CoreXY_2
M569 P2 S1 D2 ; Drive 2 goes forwards, Z Motor
M569 P3 S0 D2 ; Drive 3 goes forwards, Left Extruder
M569 P4 S1 D2 ; Drive 4 goes forwards, Right Extruder
M98 Pmachine_endstoptypes.g ; set endstop types
M98 Pmachine_steppercurrent.g ; set stepper currents
M98 Pmachine_stepperspeed.g ; set stepper speeds
M98 Pmachine_axisdimension.g ; configure the axes dimensions
M98 Pmachine_axissteps.g ; configure the axes steps per mm
M98 Pmachine_extruderstep.g ; configure the extruder steps
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Set to absolute coordinates...
M84 S1 ; Set idle timeout

; --- SECTION: HEATERS, BED & THERMISTOR ---
;H0 is bed
;H1 is left heater
;H2 is right heater

M570 H0 P25 T30 ; Allow heater to be off by as much as 30C for 25 seconds
M570 H1 P15 T30 ; Allow heater to be off by as much as 30C for 15 seconds
M570 H2 P15 T30 ; Allow heater to be off by as much as 30C for 15 seconds
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0, For heated Bed thermistor
M305 P1 X501 R4700 ; Define left side extruder PT1000
; M305 P1 X201 ; Upgraded E3D Thermistor
M305 P2 X502 R4700 ; Define right side extruder PT1000
; M305 P2 X200 ; Upgraded E3D Thermistor
M307 H0 A78.9 C265.2 D9.5 S1.00 V24.0 B0 ; Forcing heated bed PID control after power-cycle. Basic bed heating auto-tune
M307 H1 A241.4 C104.5 D3.5 S1.00 V23.9 B0 ; Set PID values use M303 auto-tune calibration settings
M302 P1 ; Allow Cold extrudes
M98 Pmachine_maxtemp.g ; set bed and extruder max temperatures

; --- SECTION: FANS ( ) ---

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

; --- SECTION: TOOLS ( ) ---

; Comment: Remember! H0 is the heated bed!
; Comment: D0 is the first driver after movement (X, Y and Z) drives, which is left extruder
; D1 is right extruder

M98 Pmachine_ktana_tools.g ; Define ktana tools

T0 ; Automatic tool select

; --- SECTION: NETWORKS (PROLOGUE & COMMUNCATIONS SECTION) ---
M98 Pmachine_access.g ; set machine name and IP
M552 S1 ; Enable network
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; --- SECTION: MISCELLANEOUS ---

M572 D0:1 S0.07 ; Extruder Pressure Advance

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

The plug is hiding one of them in shadow, so I can't see it. The others I think look ok, but it's a bit blurry. It can work best to get a good focus from a bit farther away and then zooming in a bit.

Where I have it placed I can can't move it that easily and I just got the bed leveled which is a nightmare in and of itself... But that last one looks okay too... It's a fused board so I thought if I had don't anything major it would have either popped the fuse or blew up that fans. Aforementioned the fans are confirmed to be working. I'm going to double check the wiring harness...

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

It's possible that the mosfet for that fan port has blown. Can you get a good close up photo of the area around the fan ports?

You can see an image of what a damaged mosfet looks like, though they don't always look like this.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_Fan_mosfet

Its a brand new board so I hope that's not the case...

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M106_Fan_On

Yes, M106 S is for the speed. 0 is off, 1 is full on. decimal values between act like a percentage. 0.5 is 50%

So the fans are still not on. I plugged them into a separate 12v and also into the 24v print head / extruder fan port and the fans and my temp wiring are working fine. I've switched them on via S1 in the config file as well. Am I missing something else? Is it possible that the connector needs flipped like most of the other had? Odd that the print head / extruder fan works fine and not the nozzle fan... Can I switch that to a different port? Thanks !

@dc42 said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

@Stephenbright said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

M106 P1 S0 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S0 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

The comment says they are set to 100% speed, but the S0 parameter means they are turned off.

The confirm S1 will turn them on correct?

Thank you !

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

I wouldn't do that unless you don't care if you have to replace them. Just use a buck converter, fans aren't just resistors and there's a pretty good change the fans will be exposed to the full 24v at some point. Buck converter is cheap and easy to get. Amazon has 10 packs for $10.

Basically I'm not getting the nozzle fans to run and I want to make sure I hooked them up correctly from the Maestro to Wifi migration. I checked the fans and they work as well as the wiring. They worked when they were on the Maestro so I know the connection was solid. Temporarily I'm going to run the two 12v fans in series until the 24v fans get here, but in any event they should be running. The Wifi board has a fuse and the always on print head / extruder fan is working fine so I know the board should be working fine as well. I tried to heat the nozzle to make sure the fans would kick in and still nothing… I switch the fans to the F500 setting too… It’s almost like they are shut off?

[1:34 AM]
; --- SECTION: FANS ( ) ---

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S0 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S0 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

Yes the V_fan pin provides voltage to the fan headers, so when bridged to vin they will get whatever your VIN is.

So setting it to 5v means yor 24v fans are only getting 5v, and so spinning slower. Going the other way and bridging to vin would mean the 5v fans are getting 24v and spinning faster and probably popping.

The Maestro has 2 fan blocks either with independent voltage selection jumpers, but the wifi only has 1.

To use the 5v fans you would have to supply them with their own 5v source (easiest would be a buck converter) and then the negative pin back to the fan header negative pin so they could still be PWM controlled.

Or simply get all 5v or all 24v or all 12v fans and bridge the jumper to5v or 24v vin, or supply 12v via a buck converter to the v_fan pin.

More here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans#Section_Using_fans_with_mixed_voltages

I can run 2 12v fans in series and that would create a 24v circuit correct?

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

If the fans are 5v then you want the jumper to bridge 5v and v_fan

I moved the jumper to the left to bridge 5v and v_fan and the the print head / extruder fan started to blow slower. I didn't check to see if the nozzle fans we wroking as I shut it off to not damage anything. The print head / extruder fans are 24v and the dual nozzle fans are 5v ( according to the M3D website. ) Do they run off of the same circut?

@Phaedrux the two fans are 5V, 100mA cooling blower fans.

The jumpers are on:

V_fan
VIN ( yellow )

GND
5v EN