Topics created by SamanthaJaneyCake

@Phaedrux will do! But… I can say it does remain because my E-stop isn’t hooked up to the duet but to the mains. In an emergency I want everything to stop. Full power cycle is on my list of standard troubleshooting approaches.

I haven’t had any issues since my last post and the only thing that’s changed is that I’ve commented out the line declaring DWC needs a password.

@o_lampe it wasn’t, as it happens. I redid the firmware from scratch using the RRF configuration tool which gave a slightly different setup to the one I was working on when I asked the spindle question.
Ironically having fixed the issues I’m back to essentially my original spindle config.
What I’ve ended up doing to solve that original issue is break out heater3 (and 4 for the laser) and use those to PWM drive an external MOS chip that level shifts the PWM to a breakout from the fan 5V… which is then the right level and “side” of the spindle controller to control it properly!

It seemed to work when I tried it at 9:00 last night but that’s my cutoff time for trusting my brain not to do something stupid so I’ll be doing more tests and checks this afternoon.

@gloomyandy morning, thanks for checking that with me. I read all the docs to do with laser control thoroughly when I was using this board for my laser cutter. At the time I’d ordered the expansion board to do it properly but the delivery guy marked it as “left in outhouse” (we don’t have an outhouse) and I never saw it again. In the end I connected it to fan0 as a 5V capable PWM and I’ve had almost perfect control over the laser prior to this setup.
The one issue I got was it powering up for a second at initialisation, I had figured that to solve that I could set bedheater as a GPIO and essentially use it as my power control for the laser. This in testing has worked fine but one of my tests today will be to decouple that and run the laser directly from the PSU like it was previously just to sanity check that setup that I know ought to work.

For the spindle I could try feeding it a 5Vref from the fan0 connector to the speed controller, good shout. Laser I don’t have that option unfortunately.

Even better solution: I hooked up the power wires for my laser to the bed heater output and made that a GPIO that I then turn on and off via gCode.

@KennethR

NOTE: I found an easy fix for the issue and have created another post on my remaining problem. Please ignore the above post(I cannot edit it anymore)

BR Kenneth

@jay_s_uk Thanks! Now they're actually in sync that should be much easier through DWC. Back on track 😊

@phaedrux Hello again! I ended up doing a complete fresh reinstall from the configurator then made sure I was using the latest stable release.

Good news is I am now connected to DWC 3.3.0, bad news is I have a new issue here.

M122 printout is being flagged as spam by Akismet. I will try and snippet the relevant.

M122 === Diagnostics === RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet version 3.0 running on Duet WiFi 1.02 or later + DueX5 ... Error status: 0 ... === Network === Slowest loop: 15.22ms; fastest: 0.00ms Responder states: HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0) HTTP sessions: 1 of 8 - WiFi - Network state is running WiFi module is connected to access point Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0 WiFi firmware version 1.26 WiFi MAC address 48:3f:da:75:a8:d7 WiFi Vcc 3.36, reset reason Turned on by main processor WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 26024 WiFi IP address 192.168.0.74 WiFi signal strength -63dBm, reconnections 0, sleep mode unknown Socket states: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

@fcwilt (warning: ramble incoming) My printer is an own-design foldable bedslinger so has a few frame and component quirks compared to commercial units. It was foldable because at the time I was a student and moved around a fair bit. Having a printer I could fold down and pick up by the handle like a suitcase was very handy.

I designed and built it back in 2015 when having a screw on one Z carriage and an end stop positioned below it was the "way it was done". I did not want to reprint and reassemble the rightmost Z carriage with its own screw especially as I am not a huge fan of having 2 adjustment points for Z: Z carriage offset and bed height. If the Z carriages are at the same and correct height (and thus X is perpendicular to Z) then the bed can be trammed to that without issue. To my mind it's more important that Z and X be perpendicular then bed trammed in accordance than adjusting Z to match the bed.

So having decided I do not like the Z end stop screw adjustment method (and given the fact that due to some long-forgotten design decisions I have 2x end stop mounts but not 2x end stop screw mounts) it made sense to remove the screw, glue on a pair of buffers to the Z carriages and mount the second end stop. 10 minutes design, 30 minutes print, 30 minutes gluing, soldering, crimping and plugging.

At some point I may take the time to go through the entire build and redesign it to smooth out any issues I've encountered in the past 4-5 years but this was a simple and cheap improvement.

@Phaedrux Thanks for taking the time to reply! Personally my printer is very compact and small though with a 200x200x250 build volume because I designed it to be foldable and portable so all the electronics are rather efficiently packed in. I don't think there's even much space to stick a Pi Zero W.
I feel like it wouldn't be too hard a software feature to implement but it's beyond my coding skills, at least for now 🙂